Blue_Joe

Depends on the gear and also the gear ratio. I have a VR 1st and 2nd gear on mine! So would be slightly different to a standard box

GIXXERUK You will hear the rears in the back if set up properly, however teh sound from the rears should be used as a 'fill in' not to pump sounds out in the rear!

Looking back at everything I've typed in this post Its seems that the dyslexia in my fingers is getting worse

Same from me, dob't bother with those alpines. Look at the JBL as apparently tehy are pretty good. Alot of people on here have them. Although I can't rate them myself as never heard them!

I woudl say not! Polk are generally good speakers however by the looks of the shape of the speaker you said yourself you would need to cut away the mountings on the rear shelf supports, as soon as you start to do that you weaken the structure and therefore may end up with vibration and that will possibly end up distorting the sound. Remeber it doesn't matter how good they look, you won't see them at all when they are mounted so go for a good set that fit without modification and you'll end up with a much better setup!!!

Those are the first pair I bought and they DEFINATLY DO NOT FIT!!!

The Infinitys dont fit into the mountings on the Corrado. I did quite alot of research when replacing mine as I wanted the best I could afford into there at best sound quality - this is what I found Lanzar Neo 46.1 6x4 Rated at 100W RMS although you have to make allowances that they are not big speakers so shouldnt be running bass through, they are a fill in speaker! But shallow cone with a very shallow magnet means that they fit perfectly! However they are a little pricey! http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product ... duct=19259

Now that would be interesting... :) VERY Interesting!!!!

From ready the other forum it doesn't seem a war has started at all!!!!!! More like they are up for a friendly day out at the pod with a bit of a lets see how it all compares with a bit of banter and mingling and look see at others cars. But do remember that the CRX's no matter what has been done to them are as light as a feather in comparison to a very heavy G60! But you never know it could be a bit of fun!

Ive got 7.5x17 that are ET52 with 25mm adapters on to make them fit and change stud pattern from 5x130 to 4x100. These completely fill the arches and do catch a little on the back, bearing in mind it is lowered fairly significantly on coilovers. So with 8x17 I say at a minimum you'd need the arches rolled!

While your at it Jim, get the McGuiars Liquid Car Wax to go over it after the clay bar as is brilliant on black cars! (Unless the Zymol is really that good!)

Go to your local McGueirs (can't spell today!!!!) stockist - and there it will be! Or I think someone on here supplies it mail order!

Jim - It's really not hard work at all, I did mine and it really doesn't require alot of effort!

Thats very familiar for someone you've never met before :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'd try the clay bar first, cheaper and works very well. When a bodyshop mops the car they use an abrasive polish and polish off a fine layer of paintwork bringing the paintwork up to a nice smooth shine again taking out all the crap that has got engrained in it over the years. However a work of warning if you have stonechips it can enlarge them quite significantly

£25 + Vat from Venom!

A big NO from me on that one! It'd be a bit like putting a false air scoop on the bonnet or those Escort RS Turbo Vents that just stick on, onto a standard Kevscort!

I like them aswell! Currently looking into it wih mine but particularly like them when the top vent follows the crease line in the wing

The SEARCH is your friend - John ha a post with all the Milltek costs on it. Look in Suppliers might be a guide for you

That lookks very much like a powerflow tailpipe!

Now thats only ever a matter of opinion. I far prefer the early style hood as is more in keeping with the rest of the cars smoother lines. The late hood I feel is too bulbous and rounded as well as the VR6 wings that stick out too far IMHO!! But I'm also not sure if that is going to be an issue! You obviously have an earlier shape. When they changed over to the later shape the bonnet was changed and also the wings were wider to accomodate th VR6 motor. I might be wrong but you may need the wider wings also.

To make sure that doesn't happen just make sure all the foam padding around all the wiring is intact, if its not put some more on, its genrally the loos unpadded wires that rattle

I've just had a proper lookat the guide that potatonet put up. It's really not as complex as that as to replace the outer shell its a case of removing the clocks and switches, there are 2 nuts to undo under the bonnet just under the wiper arms. One bolt on either end of the dash, remove the under trays take out about 6 screws from in and around the heater controls, a couple behind where the clocks are and a few down the bottom. Remove the centre console (all the trim down the centre of the car, handbrake and gearlever surround) and the dash just pulls out. Put the new one in reverse the process adn thats it. You dont need to remove the heater box etc. If you've never done it before then shouldnt take more than about 4 hours. I can do it in about 2 and a half hours and I've only don it 3 times. Planning on a 4th when I swap to a later style dash.

Shame your not near me. My friendly mechanic can strip out and refit a dashboard in t he space of an hour. Pretty damn impressive!!! Although it really isn;t that much of a nightmare to do yourself! Just a little fiddly!

I've just lookked at the website and it is NOT silver plated or made of silver. It have had all the paintwork stripped off and has then been polished and laquered! Then the plastic parts that could not be polished where painted in a chrome paint to give the same effect! However it then as Jim said has a 4.2Ltr V8 developing 450bhp and 530Nm of torque. So all in all a fairly rapid bling mobile! Sorry to burst the bubble Bally!