Blue_Joe

Give him a ring first as he's not always there on a saturday. And when he is it's only until about 12. Its only a tiny place that looks like a shed at the side of the road. You'd think he was really not doing well looking at the shed and he drives a corsa to work, but the rest of the time he has a top of the range E-Class. Quite amusing really. But be prepared he'll talk the hind legs off a donkey!

This guy is brilliant. Charges next to nothing as well!!! Rotating Electrics within Stechford Tyres, Stuarts Rd, Birmingham, West Midlands B33 8UG Tel: 0121 783 1444

They changed over on the '91. It would stand to reason you have late wings unless someone changed the bonnet at some point. The late bonnet will fit with early wings without standing out too much. The rear bumper does change slightly with late also, but inly a very subtle change in that the swage line around the top of the bumper is slightly different.

G - G60! If your exterior is late spec then the wings are slightly wider. The bumper is only really different in the fact that on a early the fogs and indicators are recessed into the bumper and use different units and the late bumper the fogs and indicators are flush with the bumper. The bonnet also differs in the fact teh early bonnet the centre is recessed like this ----___---- and is flatter at the front and the late bonnet is more rounded at the front and is bulged in the centre ____-----____ If yours is late I would stick to finding late parts, no point ageing your car unnecasserily!

Errrrrrr................... A G60 One :?: :?: :?: 4 better performance?? G-Werks 4 Branch http://www.g-werks.com or speak to Darren username: w3rkd

Errrrrrr................... A G60 One :?: :?: :?:

They have been know about for ages its just the price that puts most people off. Why - How much are they??

How did you get on with looking at the VR? Are u still interested in my engine?

You also need to come and pick up and pay for my engine?????? :ignore: :D

I have - Nice drive!

He shouldnt need to replace the hub for that. Personally I'd get a centre punch and punch in the centre of the snappede bolt to guide the drill. Then drill into the bolt using a drill bit that is about 4-5mm smaller that the bolt diameter so as not to drill the threads of the hub! make sure also that you drill straight. Might be easier to use a small drill bit first to drill a pilot hole for the bigger drill bit. Once you have done that then you would be able to knock a large flat blade screw driver into the hole you have created and the bolt should turn fairly freely as drilling the centre out will release pressure on the bolt. It's not as hard as it sounds either! Done it a few times. Not on wheel bolts but on various things.

Don't go for a solid front engine mount. I ripped 3 brackets that they were attached to due to it. Once, if it wasn't for my strut brace and the inlet manifold coming to rest on it the engine would have been on the floor! Contact Darren @ g-werks as he has an uprated mount that is very good that he sells for about £70. It was the one that I used on my heavily modded G60. Thats if yours is a g-60. If not he can still get you others.

Might be the weight on on of the driveshafts coming loose. Check those first. Also does it only happen as you put the engine under load? Or does it happen on or off the throttle. Just wondering if it does only happen under load it might be linked to your bad running and be the engine pinking. That tends to sound like a metal clattering noise.

:shock: Can't believe they are charging for it now!!!!

I had quite a heavy front ender at christmas, new bonnet, bumper, headlights, fogs indicators etc etc was about £3K repair and it was paid no issues!

I have a virtually new 90amp G60 Alternator for sale if you want it. I'm back home tomorrow and could get it sent out to you as soon as I am home if you paid via paypal or put cash in the bank. £65 Delivered?? ps it's powdercoated black!

1 - is correct in theory, however some grooved brakes aren't sided!!!!!! :shock:

Just pull it off!!! Not required!

I have a MOMO Trek R steering wheel for sale including Boss!?? If your interested?

Unfortunatly I am VERY EXPERIENCED when it comes to electricity after being connected to a live wire for 4 mins when I was 8! shaking2: Apparently I'm a medical miracle (take that as you like! :lol: ) to be alive!!! On the upside Doctors believe I'll never have a heart attack as long as I live. On the downside of that I take it I'll just drop dead with no warning!!!! :gag: Personally I wouldn't keep upping the fuse size but more over check the wiring out as they shouldnt need more than a 30amp fuse in them. I ran 30amp fuses in my porsche seats that were heated and electric!

It shouldn't make a difference to how an early or late wing would fit to the doors as the doors are the same between early and late! The only places it would show is if you had an early bonnet and a late wing. Sounds more like it's not been fitted correctly

Want to buy a mental engine for it??????

What you have to remember Kev, it's not what you say alot of the time but how you say it. I appreciate that that is difficult to get across on a forum due to the lack of body language and having met you in person your a good guy. However on the forum you come across all too often as antagonistic! And it grates sometimes!

Predictable..... You reckon? :lol: Put 100W RMS through them at their lowest quoted handling frequency, 80hz, and you will fry the voicecoil instantly. And 220W peak? PMSL.... :lol: Depending on Amp dynamic headroom, the most you'll get as a peak sine wave before clipping from 100W RMS is 141W and if those things can handle that, I'll wee on my pants and then eat them. So what is 80hz if it's not bass? Are they? Doesn't say that in the advertising information. No schitt sherlock. yeah I'm sure they did... in your opinion. What, 90 quid? Fair enough, each to our own! OK, thanks for the advice. Next time I buy rear 'fill' speakers, I'll make sure it mentions about not putting any bass frequencies through them.[/quote:42cf0] Sorry I forgot - Kev is as always the oracle of all things that are everything! ........................................ My Arse! It doesn't have to say it on the box for you to understand where are best to use it. Would you really expect to achieve what you are saying out of that product?? No but use it sensibly and set it up correctly and it doesn't take a genius that you obviously try and make yourself out to be!

100W RMS :lol: That is absolute Bollocks Jim, don't believe a word of its. Silly little 6 x 4s and round 4s will be closer to 10W RMS in reality. That's why they distort, too small and too crap. Actually Kev - Your talking crap now! The 6x4 Lanzar Neos are my old speakers and they ARE 100W RMS. However you have to look at what they are designed for - and that is NOT creating bass. They are fill in speakers and are designed exactly that way. If you ran full low pass bass through them at high power no they wouldnt handle it. But run through the power they are designed to take and the type of sound they are ddesigned to take and they will run beautifully. They produced stunning sound in my car. Well worth the large amount of money I paid for them. I don't care what anyone says about you wanting the soundstage up front and the bass from the rear. I had that setup in mine for a while and wasn't happy - something was missing. That was running the Focal Polyglasses up front and an Infinty Perfect 12 in the back all in audioscape setups. However on advice I fitted these in the rear and it just filled teh gap perfectly. However as I said at the top. They are designed with a specific purpose in mind and they do it perfectly. And YES they cope with the power VERY well!