tribetype40

Ok, just a quicky.. heres the standard OEM 2.8 cast iron manifolds.. and the Tubular late spec Audi 3.2 one... 2.8, Audi 3.2, Its clear looking at the black mark on the 2.8 that the ports in the head are bigger and dont match up that well, looking at the 3.2 ones they are much better. Should be much more free flowing...

Cheers, I will try and put another post up tonight but a little busy at the moment. Yes its running on standard vr6 ECU. I made a bunch of parts, mechanical and eletrical to make the magic happen! lol I'm waiting on a few more bits to allow me to finish off controlling the adjustable camshaft but I hope to have this sorted by the end of the weekend and (fingers crossed) hope to be booking it in somewhere to get it mapped next week!

Airbox is Standard Mk4. I made a small bracket up to hold it in place behind the battery and one fixing into the turret. the problem is the inlet tube being too long. This was cut and about 1.5 inches removed from the flexible bit then (very tricky!) plastic soldered the two sides of the flexi bit together. I wanted the MK4 look to the engine bay ;-)

Ultrasonic cleaner was from Maplin, they had a deal on and it cost about £30, they also sell some cleaning fluid for solid metals (not plated) so I used a little of that. Each injector probably had 3-4x 3min sessions in the cleaner. After it worked so well on the injectors there was nothing safe in the house from getting a good clean!! :D While I was finding those pics I found these too... a neat trick I was quite pround of lol If anyone decides to replace the piston rings in a VR6 engine they will have the problem of the angle pistons going into a flat headed block (ie the top face of the block isnt perpendicular to the axis of the piston) to get around this you have to find and buy a special ring compressor, which looks like a plastic funnel. I seem to think it was exspensive and I'd have had to wait for it to arrive etc which wouldn't do. So a trip to Halfords and I had bought a run of the mill piston ring compressor. And now the neat part. tighten the compressor around a piston, then scribe a line around the inside face of the compressor, remove piston, then carefully grind the coil of metal of the compressor down untill you get to the scribe line. I found a meduim flap disc in a angle grinder was perfect for this. This is the end result, works perfectly and cost about a tenner!

Just engine degreaser from halfords, and a nail brush. If you think that was good though, check these puppies out.... While the engine was out I gave the injectors a clean. They went from this.. Before, In the Ultrasonic cleaner, Filters were removed, then back into the cleaner (new cleaning fulid!) then ended up looking like this.. Before refitting I tested them all. To do this I put one in the the old VR6 fuel rail (not fitted to the cylinder head but just hanging on the end of the fuel lines) turned the ignition on which primes the fuel lines, then off. I then put 12v to the injector untill the pressure run out. I squirted the fuel into a empty coke bottle and marked a line to show the amount of fuel it passed. I also made a mental note of how well the spray pattern looked (no jets etc). By doing this to each injector in turn I could make sure they were all matched for flow rate. They were all bang on, and all had a good spray pattern.

before the engine went back in I took the time to smarten a few things up so the rocker cover and inlet were given fresh paint, Rocker cover, Inlet, Dirty Throttle body :nono: Clean throttle body! :clap: Engine bay coming together...

Some of you may have noticed the nice exhaust manifolds I have... they came from a late spec AUDI 3.2 and are tubular stainless steel items (OEM) and they are way way less restrictive than the standard 2.8 and R32 ones. Oh and they are about half the weight of the VW cast iron ones!

Thanks for the coments guys. The dash in those pictures is a million miles away from what it looks like now! The concept was good but my exicution of fit and finish was lacking, something I have been fanatical about this time around. heres the teaser shot I posted a few weeks ago... but I'll come to more about the dash and interior later on. DSC_0215_01_1_1.JPG[/attachment:1reufmlp] Oh, I dont think anyone this side of the Sultan of Brunai could convince me to go through this amount of work again! :gag:

Soon after this I had tested the engine and the method I had come up with to get it running from the standard VR6 engine management see vid: [youtube:1xfw6nqr] [/youtube:1xfw6nqr] The engine was removed and given some love, new Bearing shells, Piston rings, all new tappets, chains, guides, tensioners, headgasket, headbbolts, conrod bolts, all new sensors, valves lapped in etc etc - its basically a new engine now! I also sorted out a propper downpipe, I looked into the dubpower conversion 6 branch thing but I thought it to be overpriced (or I'm just tight!) however, as I made the rough one before from the standard vr6 one I though, I'll just make a stainless steel one.... So for this I opted for the dubpower VR6 replacement downpipe. AND NOW A WORD OF WARNING what I recieved from Dubpower I would have to consider as 'rubbish'! so bad, I had to take photos... Heres what arrived... looks nice on the outside.... But on closer inspection.... As you can see the the where the two pipes from the individual manifold join the larger pipe at the base of the 'Y' they extend on, into the 'Y'. The result is a restriction WAY smaller than the standard downpipe. Add to the this the big flake of metal that wasn't cleaned of after cutting and before welding together I can only say I felt I had been done a treat! SO if your buying a Dubpower exhaust make sure you look it over like a hawk, bust your torch out and check inside. How this was supposed to offer anysort of performace gain I have no idea, a con really. Anyway bought it on the bases that I was going to chop it up anyway to make a downpipe to fit so I kept it and just made a propper job myself of welding it back up.. found these in a scrap metal bin years ago and kept them as 'they could be handy at some point..' Here I sorted the sh!te out, cut it in half, tidied it all up, adjusted the shape with a hammer so it matched the tube it was joining to then welding it up. really nice and smooth transition now... Heres a before, after and fitted..

dude, give me a chance!!! 'it's my first time' :nuts:

Oh yeah, hows it doing?

This interior was later sold (I think to a guy from here) although I did keep hold of the dash. I had spent LOADS of time making this and i wasn't finished with it yet..!! It was about now that I took the car off the road, I cant remember why.... I took the engine out and ended up giving it a good going over, it had new chains, guides, tensioners, plus head gasket and crank and rod bearings... Daft thing this never made it into the car! I had been thinking about the easiest way to get the 24v to work with the least amount of effort. I had a few ideas and before I knew it I had bought a 24V engine. VR6 was sold and the engine conversion began! I'll jump quite a bit here as phyiscall getting the engine into the bay is pretty much a swap job. clearing the threads on the back of the block. they are not used in the in the Mk4's but they are there. its best to run a tap down then to clear them out - you dont want to snap a bolt in the block! fit the Vr6 rear engine mount, Here i knocked up a rough Exhaust so i could fire the engine up without upsetting the neighbourhood! This was made using the MK4 down pipes, and the standard VR6 downpipe, cut up and re assembled, managed to make it using no other tube! And here is is pretty much in.. You can see on the end of the bolck the standard VR6 water housing bolted to the 24V head, or clearer in this picture...

Hi, no the dash was built from scratch using polyurethane foam, mdf etc to sculp the shape. Molds were then taken from this, then the parts made in the molds using glass fiber. it was then all covered in leather. I'm sure I have some pictures but where they are I have no idea.

A few of you have prompted me to start a build thread of my car so here we go.... I bought the C from a guy on here about 2 years ago I think as I needed a good fun car after I sold the GT3 Esprit :( The Vr6 was the prefect choice and give a similar buzz but without the worry of massive bills should bend it! It was a Green VR6 storm which although clearly loved by the owner it was pretty tired, the usual things, the cream leather was badly crazed and dirt rubbed in etc, it had covered 150k, the engine was pretty loose which was more than could be said for the gearchange! of and it had a little piston slap when cold. It was only supposed to to get me to work and back but, well, standard is so boring and things needed to be made better.... I had previously made an interior for my old V5 Corrado which I had kept, after breaking the car, so for a while I ran with that in there. Some of you may remember this....?

Yeah, sorry guys, progress has been hampered with 'other things' Progress has been more 'intellectual' more than 'physical' as I haven’t touched the car in weeks. Good news is I believe I have come up with a device to control the cam advance. I'm now delaying the mapping until I get this made up. Hopefully the parts should arrive this week so I should be able to bust out the soldering iron and get it made up and fitted over the bank holiday.

haha, you should see the rest! The dash is actually the old one I did (was brown last time) but it been totally reworked. The old dash was unique but looking back at the old pictures, fit and finish was pretty ropey. This time the entire dash was stripped back, most of the panels cut right back so I only had the bits I actually needed. It was then a grafted back on the origonal corrado dash so I knew it would all fit 100%. Theres actaully very little of the corrado dash left under there now, just the air ducting really and parts of the frame which bolt to the car. all the edges between the parts were all reworked making sure the fit between the panels was spot on. I also spent a lot of time working out how, where and what type of fixings to use. If you saw the old one, this one is a world apart! I think (when I try and look at it through an unbiased eye!) thats its verging on OEM but I'll see what peoples feedback is once its finished. The only thing that bugging me now is, with the engine bay looking new and the interior going the same way, that the exterior is letting the side down! lol cheers for the encouraging comments.

no, not yet. sorry. got side traked on making some progress on the interior (which is starting to look pretty spanky!.. cue teaser shot....) DSC_0215_01_1_1.JPG[/attachment:c0pl7a1k] plus I get married in 2 weeks so all spare time has just been utterly consumed with that! Should be back on it when I get my time back after the honeymoon. ;-)

GOOD NEWS! managed to bolt enough of the car together to get a shakedown drive done. Just got back from a blast up the road and things are looking really good! As it is at the moment I haven't wired up the variable inlet and there is no cam advance but it drives very well. low down pulls very keenly but it feels a little flat higher in the rev range but that said, its had NO mapping at all, its running and totally drivable entirely on the standard VR6 mangement! I would have taken a vid but my power steering pump it knakered so squealing like a cornered virgin plus there's no interior in it so its all a little noisy in there. i will have it all tidied up by Tuesday as tomorrows job is to book it in for the MOT. Then I will finally get around to getting it mapped. :)

Hmmm, not up on my Autos. I cant see why not as you could think of this as a 24V VR but I'm not sure how the Auto ECU's workout when to change gear. I'm guessing its torque related but I dont know how this is monitored by the Ecu etc. maybe someone with more knowledge on the working of auto ecus could shed some light...?? anyone. The beauty of this conversion is you could try it and if it doesn't work you can put the standard engine back in as very very little is actually modified!. I got to drive mine for the first time this weekend. It was only moving it about on the drive but it pulled strongly so I think it will drive ok as is - ie, no mapping. I have a few bits to do to the rest of the car before I can get it MOT'd but I'm thinking of booking it in on Tuesday. I will then be getting it mapped so we can see the results...!

Cheers for the good comments guys. I had a few problems lately, mostly getting it ready for the MOT. The rear doesn't seem to have ever had any servicing ! the discs were waffer thin and all the bolts back there have needed replacing. Then the 90 degree elbow on the top of the rad gave way! BUT!!!.. As promised I am uploading a video of it as I type so you should be able to see the progress in a bit. The vid shows the engine is running on standard VR6 ecu WITH NO MAPPING as yet. it actually runs so well I'm confident it will drive well as it is and mapping will only involve some tweeks to the fueling. (oh and ignor the oil light on the dials, I'm using MK4 dials and not fully wired yet!)

Sure thing Karl, and thanks for the vote of support.

Oh dear, if your offended please remove the threads.

It 'should' work with any coilpack VR6 engined car. But some brackets etc may be different for the different engine bay.

Its purposfully vague as its not 100% fully proven yet. Its not like I have asked for orders, only interest and given ballpark costs based on what it has cost me to do. No point getting intertest THEN telling people it would cost a million pounds to do (= NO interest) Once I have it fully completed the results will speak for themselves and I'll be more than happy for people to see the car and talk through whats involved.