mrbeige

Bloody hell, bet you're glad you changed the water pump after finding that :shock: It is easy to get the bumper and slam panel off isn't it? Made some good progress on Sunday then, not too much left to do now I suppose....Mmmmmm supercharger......

What are your actual plans? 3a with?

Not by any means dude. Got bits and bobs, but I'm in no rush anyway.

Managed to get some more done on the project (need to keep my enthusiasm up) Eventually, after 6 separate attempts, I managed to finally get the crank pulley bolt out. I'm sure someone had welded it in and the put some threadlock from hell in there! So with that out, I could take the pistons and rods off the crank, then remove the crank. The main bearing shells look in good shape, but I think I'm going to use diesel bearing shells. Conrod shells look good too. Pistons looked a but shabby, but after a quick clean with some degresser and a washing up sponge (you know, the yellow ones with a scrubbing side, from Tescos! :lol: )......Think I need to get a stiff bristled(sp?) brush, to get into the grooves where the rings sit though. Before After The is an odd mark on one of the bores, but I'm wondering if it a fix to the casting? Had a go at cleaning the block up too, looks mightily better already Just need to give the bottom edge of it another go with the 'Tetroclean' and a wire brush, then sort out some paint! Decided to go for the OEM look on the install, so the block with be painted silver (although still toying with doing it black).

I like the 16v too, driven a VR, but not a G60, although I drove my mates mk1 G60, so I know how the engine feels, I like the 16vs characteristics more, just not the power, which is why I'm turboing mine....

I've got a nearly new one of these, only year old. Cost £26 form the stealers....£15 inc P&P? Oooh, I'll have it. Can I collect?? You can collect if you want to.... :?

I've got a nearly new one of these, only year old. Cost £26 form the stealers....£15 inc P&P?

And purpose built Upgrade to the headlight wiring as well? Indeed.... :D

Any more progress, Yan?

Is it running yet?? :D

So, when is this gonna be back on the road then dude?

I hear a can of worms being opened......

To be honest I'd consider keeping the ABF injection system and manifold, just means that you can fiddle with the ECU to get more power. The only thing you may need to do is get a late bonnet which is humped (primarily to clear th VR engine) like this ___/

Yeah, you should be able to. davidwort has a 6a in his IIRC...

I read a round up of torque wrenchs in a mag recently, the Halfords pro ones are the most accurate and the only criticism was the ratchet mech was not as good as some of the others. As for how many you need, Halfords do a dirty great big one that goes from 60nm-300nm on a half inch drive and one that goes from 10nm-60nm on a 3/8 inch drive IIRC, get both of those and that will be it covered. I use draper pro stuff at work and to be frank it is a pile of crap, the Halfords pro stuff is so much better by comparison and if you break it they will change it no questions asked. Sorted. Got some Halfrauds Pro Sockets and ratchet, and they are really good, so Halfrauds Pro it is.....

So what range and size should I be looking at, as a good all rounder?

Yeah I had trouble when I did mine ages ago. You need 1/4" drive with a wibbly ended extension (oo-er :lol: )

Looking to buy one, can anyone recommend good makes, torque range, size (3/8 or 1/2) etc? EDIT: Would this be any good?

Hello, and welcome. Good skills on the new purchase, I'm sure you wont be disappointed!! Subtle mods would be wheels, suspension and exhaust, that should put pay to the money you've got to spend on it. 40mm drop would be my first port of call. The standard VR suspension is a little high :lol:

There aren't any standard maps, but there are a few people on the MS forum who've done similar conversions, who post up there maps to allow people to use them as a starting point. IIRC MS also allows you to auto-calibrate the maps using a wideband lambda. IT runs in closed loop mode and feeds back the AFR to the ECU. Essentially you drive up and down the road in different gears/loads/RPMs and set the desired AFR and it adjusts the map accordingly. You can get to around 95% of optimum setup doing this, but for the final 5% a rolling road is needed really. I paid £160 for my MS (MS1 with EGT/barometric air pressure daughter board) + £130 for the Innovate wideband and then all you need is the wiring loom. Dec used the relay board, but I'm hoping to use the existing relays in the Corrado fuseboard. The Plug and Play idea is a pretty good one actually. Will be doing it anyway, so will have all the info.....

I do know what you mean about target dates, but I need one to keep my focus :lol: As far as wiring is concerned, if I manage to get mine done ok, I'm only over near Ely so not a million miles away, so I might be able to help with fitting a Megasquirt??

Set yourself the target for next ED38 then. Supercharged, Yan and I have all said ours would be ready for the next one! Mines done 135k, and didn't run well at all. So I'm using a 2e bottom end and the 9a head. The 2e bottom end is in pretty good nick to be fair, can still see the honing marks on the cylinder bores!! So apart from new bearing shells and gaskets (possibly rings depending on condition) the bottom end is pretty much paid for. 16v turbo would be the more unique choice though :D especially with the 4wd!

Progress is progress no matter how small, and I can understand the pub 'calling'! So what's next? You still going 16v turbo with the 4wd?

No problem dude. Good luck.

You could use that one, plus that also looks like it has the stepper motor idle valve. With the right Megasquirt you can control that and do without the standard 16v ISV.