mrbeige

Cheers dude. Painting it with some POR15 enamel engine paint, it chemically bonds itself to the metal, so masking off stuff is probably a really good idea, if I do say so myself :lol: And its going to be black.

Did a bit more today, mostly I've been preparing the block ready for some paint :D Finally got the engine on the stand. Woohoo! Most of the masking done! The plan is to use the crank seal plates to mask off where the paint should go up to. I'm assuming that it wouldn't give a good seal if I were to paint under where the seals go?? Am I going a bit OTT with the masking??

Hmmm, I know what you mean, that could be a good plan, Cole. 180bhp is really good, and its nice to here that the engine is real smooth. 8) That'd be cool and the gang. I already have an early style coilpack, but can easily move that on and get a newer style one. much better to use the HT leads I already have as well as they are pretty good ones. I'm going to be using a 20v inlet manifold modified to fit using the bottom section of the standard manifold, so I might use a 20v throttlebody with the ISV built into it. I have a mk3 8v one at the mo, though. :?

There's loads of space at the mo, as the dash is out :lol: Seriously though, not sure on where I'm going to mount the ECU, might have it in the glovebox, but might put it under the steering column. Not really sure. I haven't got that far thinking about it yet....

Hi Andy, I probably am creating a bit more work for myself yeah :oops: but I want to replace the wiring looms that go into the bay as they are mostly fooked. I've got some wires that have burnt out at somepoint and have had a shoddy repairs done to them, so thought that it was best to replace the lot. It's all good fun :lol: The plan is to use the existing fuel pump relay, the tachometer and a switched 12V source, which was also part ofthe reason for my wiring loom madness. Not sure on where to put the fusebox for the squirt though. I like where you put yours, but quite like the idea of having any extra wiring over by the original wiring fusebox I may well do that dude. I'm still interested in the dizzy blanking plate :wink: Oh, and how well does yours run??

A corrado with stupid 9" wheels :cry: :cry: :cry: :lol:

Karl, I'd say stick the R32 lump in on Emerald. 300 N/A horses is pretty impressive, and as nemesis360 says, you can bolt the rotrex on afterwards. I'm not actually sure I've seen an R32 engine in a Corrado in this country, unless my memory is a totally fooked and I'm forgetting someone. The advantage of using emerald is you shouldn't need to use the fly by wire throttle, which simplifies the install somewhat. Plus you shouldn't need the clocks, key, transponder jobbies either. But you probably already know all that :lol: As they say, "there is no replacement for displacement"!

Looking good dude 8) What you doing with the exhaust? I'm guessing the prop shaft is going to be in the way?

Wide on 16s is gooooood, but not if you are thinking of a silly power after ripping the valver to pieces! I'm going to keep my Schmorbets for shows once mine is back on the road, I don't think tramlining with over 250 horses would be particularly beneficial :lol: How far off the 200k are you?

Rob, personally I prefer the look of the Brocks, but as you say 9's aren't practical for the amount of power you're running/will be running (I'm only going to be using my 9's for shows, once mine is back on the road). Don't get me wrong though dude, I like the RXII's, they do look sweet 8)

Oooooooh shineyness..... 8)

Well, trying to get these bl00dy terminal pins is a nightmare, but one of the guys on Dubforce pointed me at this site: vehicle wiring products, and its looking quite hopeful. Will measure the pins tonight and see if they are the same. The only other option is to buy pins with flying leads off them from VW, but that isn't ideal as I'll have to splice into the flying leads and what is the point of that, I might as well just cut the plugs off my existing loom; NOT what I want to do.

Just been down to VW and they only had pins with flying leads attached. Part number 000 979 227 for example. Can someone stick that number into ETKA for me and see if you can get the terminals on there own?

Anyone? Pretty please with a cherry on top?

I couldn't find them on ETKA, can someone else have a look??

Does anyone know if these are available from VW? Cheers me dears

Winter, summer, winter, summer at the rate I'm going :lol: I did think about the stealth approach, but I think i'd be struggling to breath at that height! :lol:

Cheers dude and I think I'll need it :LOL: I do have me mate Dave to help me with building the loom, its just up to me to work out how to build it :doc: Just found this picture, whilst talking to saysomestuff, one of my favourites....it looks like its about to eat something....mmmmmm16v turbo mmmmmm :lol:

Nope, I'll be replacing the ECU and loom with the squirt ECU and a new loom, but he loom will plug directly into the fuse board with the same connectors as the old one.....hopefully :robot:

No probs. The idea is to try and do a seemless install of the Squirt, by making a loom that plugs directly into the back of the fuseboard, therefore retaining all functionality of the clocks/gauges and using fuel pump relay as well. It should work, as long as I get the pins right in the plugs that go into the fuseboard. This will also allow me to add/remove functionality from the squirt if required, by just making another plug and play loom.... Well, that's the plan anyway....

Cheers guys. Not sure if I've done the right thing, but sod it, its out now... Just been checking that all the plugs are available, so just phoned up VW and the plugs are available for very little, but the pins aren't. they did say that they have a big box of pins there, so might have to havea mosy-on-down there to see if the big box of pins contains the type of pins I need...

My plans are to build my 16v turbo engine, hopefully! Not sure if the funds will allow completion over winter though :?

Looks great dude! Good work 8) 8) It's amazing how good something that simple looks!

I had the same issue of allen key bolts on the coolant flange on mine. I just hammered a 12mm socket over the top of it, and hey presto they came out. :D

Yeah it is a little daunting, but how hard can it be....lol I showed my mate, who's giving me a hand sorting it out, these pictures and he said it shouldn't be too difficult to do, as long as I have the wiring diagrams. Hopefully going to have a look at the looms this week to see what we need to do. the only dificult bit is making sure all the wires are the correct length. The only loom I'm modifying is the engine loom, the others are just being replicated, but with different lengths and a different position for the battery as its going in the boot. Fingers crossed :lol: