Blair

I had (well, still HAVE actually) one of those head units. Mine didn't sound too bad but it wasn't brilliant - and there wasn't much 'oomph' in it :) What's the problem with the sound - just not enough bass? OK, time to ask the stupid question - but you have been through the audio menus after pressing the 'select' button and making sure the bass isn't turned all the way down haven't you? That 3-way 'bass boost' dial on the lower right does make a difference, but you need the bass turned up as well :) HTH

I got to see this 'in the metal' a couple of weeks back when I went to pick up a cat(alytic converter) from James (thanks again for that!), and it is truly gorgeous. Pretty darned good for a daily driver! :shock:

Mine looked fine to me too until I got them off the car today :) One was OK - still in one piece, but did feel like it had too much play. The other one just fell to bits as soon as I lifted it off the strut :) GSF do them at a reasonable price - can't remember off the top of my head, I have the receipt in the car somewhere. The front end of mine is certainly a lot less 'rattly' over uneven surfaces, so for the minimal cost I recommend changing them. They'll also sell you the rear axle bushes as well. I've just changed the shocks all round on mine (and rear bearings, disks, pads & calipers!) to try and cure the floaty and tail-happy handling, but if the tail's still fidgety then it's the rear axle bushes next. Just make sure they give you the Corrado ones - I was chatting to a couple of mechanics who casually said 'oh yeah, rear axle bushes, they'll be the same as the Mk2' - then I got the parts out and they realised they're not!

But you've still got the problem of the battery being flat so the solenoid won't work...? :) Maybe two hidden power terminals to remotely 'jump' your car so you can operate the solenoid and at least get in & start the engine?

Perhaps a stupid question...but I'm getting quite adept at asking them :) I've noticed a lot of people are putting heated leather seats in their Corrados. I've also noticed that a fair proportion of them come from the factory with this option. My question: Is the wiring loom all there for the conversion, or do I need to do some extra work if I decide to go the heated leather route? The reason I ask is that recently it seems a lot of the VW options seem to be part of the loom, it's just a question of buying it and plugging it in (eg. fridge in the boot, CD autochanger etc.) Ta :)

Hmmmm. Thanks for the info guys - I'm not keen on them being masked off at all, so I guess I'll just have to try and remove them REALLY carefully myself... :) If I bugger it up...well, I've always liked the clean look...;)

How long do the standard springs last? I've still got mine on at 102K miles. I'm just about to do an almost full suspension rebuild but WITHOUT doing the springs (doing the shocks, bump stops & top bearings) as the tail is starting to feel a bit sloppy...! Are the springs really worth doing at the same time? And I'm not going to lower it...I've got a good deal on my insurance (£350 fully comp, protected no claims, business use) which depends upon the car remaining standard :)

Hi all, My Corrado goes in for some paintwork (both doors & rear quarters, plus cleaning up a few bumper scuffs and repair a spot of rust on the visible part of the front panel just above the bumper). I want to make sure a proper job is done - and as such, I want the side trim removed before spraying, then refitted. How is this trim held on - is it adhesive, or does it clip on? If it's adhesive, to be honest I'd be tempted to leave them off :) But whatever happens, I want the doors bare before they are sprayed. How do I remove the trim? Just yank it off? Many thanks!

Cool. Good to see it's being rescued from a fate worse than death. I have to say, before you started stripping it down it was the absolute worst Corrado I've ever, ever seen. The guy who did that must have a few problems "upstairs". Still, I bet he lost a shedload of cash on it :) Anyway, good to see you taking the time to restore it, nice work :) And kudos to you for seeing beyond the initial state and taking the project on - frankly, even at that price I would have walked, Keep us informed of progress!

On a riverboat in Amsterdam...

Mine's only the FIRST facelift version with the exterior changes but without the heater controls & switchgear update. Maybe your mate's K-reg was first registered a couple of years after it was made? A mate of mine had a mini that was 5 years older than its number plate suggested because it had been used as a runabout on an RAF base :)

Cheers VR6. As for the "facelift" - there were two distinct facelifts: One occurred in late '91/early '92. Corrados got the 4-slat grille, bulged bonnet, later design bumpers with fliush indicators & fogs. I've seen a lot of J-plate G60s with this facelift. The second occurred in '93 I think - this time the changes were limited to the interior I believe, with different door cards & speaker pods with the electric windows switches moved down to the pods, the rotary heater controls and updated switchgear. It may have also been the same time the VR6 got the smaller front spoiler as well (mine's still got the full-size one). Thanks for the input so far :)

Cloth trim but full electric kit - sunroof, windows & wing mirrors (which need sorting as the switch has stopped working). It also has ABS, and the adjustable steering column. Stereo is a Sony minidisc unit. No point posting pictures until the bodywork has been sorted, but it will be excellent.

I'll be looking to sell my G60 in the next couple of months and possibly move up to a VR6. However, I have no idea what sort of price to ask - hopefully some kind souls out there can help ;) It's a 1992 J-plate facelift G60 in Moonlight Blue Pearl (most people think it's black) Just done 100,000 miles Full service history except for one early one, all VW or BRMotorsport It has picked up a couple of minor scrapes which I'm having sorted at a local bodyshop - a decent one, recommended by mates - so should be mint (having both doors & rear 1/4 panels painted, the front bumper blown in & the whole car mopped). Totally standard except for clear side repeaters. Rebuilt charger by BRMotorsport at 64,000 miles Minor kerbing on the standard BBS alloys but nothing drastic. Exhaust is rattling a bit so I'd get that sorted first as well. All headlamps, foglights and indicators are in one piece with no cracks! Interior is good, minor marks and a small cigarette burn on the rear seat but fine apart from that. Any ideas?

Hi there, I need a new exhaust for my G60, I've found someone who's breaking a '92 VR6 and was wondering if the exhaust (cat back) will bolt straight onto my G60? Cheers! :)

I was born up there in Aberdeen, lived in Milltimber and Cults for a while then my Dad's job took us south of the border :( Still got all my family on my Mum's side up there in Aberdeen though, so we still visit :)

"Reasonable". Not the word I'd use ;) Looking forward to see what's gone into it now!

By the way, almost forgot to mention, I love the Mk2 Golf big-bumper chin spoiler - that looks like it was made for the job, I think I actually prefer that to standard.

Sweet... You've managed to tick off those "dream" jobs I wanted to do on mine (top-quality respray & TT dash being top of the list!) Great job on the dash by the way. Did you have to cut the back of it to meet the profile of your C, or is it a close enough match anyway? Congratulations, that is very probably the sweetest Corrado I've ever seen, love it!

Nice motor :) Nicely modded, subtly done. And Duthie park....God that takes me back to when I was a nipper :) Loved it there.

No problem :) As for the ebay item - that's the one! Nice - it's still got the resistor pack so you don't need to faff about with that. It's still worth keeping the old one though just in case, they're about £20 new...! :)

Just some hints for you... - The only tools you need are a philips screwdriver (for removing the undertray). A flat-headed screwdriver would be useful for leverage, and a torch VERY useful :) - Before you can twist & remove the motor, there's a plastic lug you need to lift over a plastic "ramp". It's on almost exactly the opposite side of the motor from you - you'll probably need a torch to see it. Just lift that up and twist the motor at the same time - if you can see the lug and "ramp" it's obvious which way to twist it out. - Remember to keep the resistor pack - the thing the cable plugs into. Sheer brute force (and the use of a screwdriver as a lever) seems to be the order of the day for removing it from the old one :) - Put something down on the interior carpets etc. as if your motor is anything like mine, a lot of crap will fall out of it when you take it out.

Yeah, but I can't remember! Sorry.

If you lube the bearings you might get a bit more life out of it (if you can be bothered :) ). Mine had been whistling a few months before dying. If you're planning on keeping the car more than a few months though, it's less hassle all round to just change it now - you'll have to do it anyway, and the chances of the new one going before you sell the car are about the same as the chances of you still owning it in 2015 :)

Apparently it's fairly typical of the G60 engines. Some of them develop a top-end rattle - mine's been doing it for 5 years, I checked it out at BRMotorsport and they told me it was fairly common but nothing to get concerned about. Of course, without HEARING it on yours I can't be sure it's the same rattle :) But it's coming from the same place and the symptoms are identical :)