Skimask

This tool should do it - without removing the head. The valves are held in place by compressed air - pressurised through an adapter screwed into the plug hole. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/lib ... 211452.jpg I wouldn't use this method anyway - its much better removing the head and completely refurbishing it.

Kaktus - sounds like a problem I had with my valver. In my case it was the crankshaft pulley bolt was knackered, this sheared the keyway on the pulley and allowed the timing to go out by a few teeth. You'll have to align the timing again!! and see if there is any play on the pulley - do this by placing a socket on the crankshaft bolt and gently move it back and forth. The play will be barely noticeable if it is the problem.

Just a wee note - if you are going to heat the injectors up to remove the end cap - be aware that there is usually residual fuel in them and a jet of flame will envelop the injector :)

These are the ones - look for the part number - they are the Merc fitment ones.

The car is in Randolph Autosalvage Kirkcaldy- been there for a couple of months. They did want £30 for a 14 year old heater motor - when you can get a new one for £45 or so! Yes trying to find a Corrado in a Scottish scrappy - hens teeth!!

It's OK I found it- I had to take the rocker cover off. A pin holds the plastic Camshaft connector on to the shaft of the distributer. The pin had come partially out - stopping the withdrawal of the distributer. There should be a metal clip stopping the pin from moving - but there wasn't one there!!!

Hi Folks, I'm trying to remove the distributor from a VR6 - it seems to be caught on something inside. The distributor is partly out - is there a method for removing it cleanly without breaking the plastic disk at the rear of the body?

Cheers James, I thought so. I'm swapping them over this weekend - hopefully the weather will be kind and the forecast snow doesn't happen!

Hi Folks, A quick question for all you who have replaced a VR6 engine - is it easier to swap out the engine in the car or pull out the engine\gearbox as a unit then change the engine?

Welcome to the forum..... er...there seems to be a magic tree in your engine bay - That's not where it goes....he...he...he

Dogzy boy, You'll also need to buy the bolts for holding the wishbones on! My car had horrendous torque steer. Checking the suspension there was play on the front wishbone bush - so I bought another wishbone from ECP. When I took the old one off to look at the bushes - wiping away the muck I noticed they were purple - the uprated ones. Checking the invoices i got with the car the bushes were only a year old and in good condition. The play was caused by wear on the shaft of the bolts. I know its just another expense - but its pointless buying the wishbones for the bolts to let you down. I think the bolts were about a tenner for the 4 (two each side) from VW!

I can vouch for St Petersburg - The Hermitage, boat trips (go for the hydrofoil so much quicker) to the palaces, loads of monuments. I hope the roads have improved, they are very bad with big potholes, considering the winter they get there, its hardly surprising. That was in 1993 so they may have improved. You'll find the alcohol very cheap and abundant - it should be quite an experience if you've never been there before :D :D :D :D :D

Dude, If the paint has runs - then he isn't a painter. I was quoted 1500 for a complete respray from a proper bodyshop. It all depends where you take your car, one guy I knew had a paint shop and he quoted 3000 - but then again his customers are the BMW and Mercedes garages, and I know what a Lamborghini and Ferrari looks like when it stripped down, people would take their cars to him to be restored. I wouldn't expect to pay 1500 unless it was a very good job - and yours isn't.

I had the same 'Too many Communication errors' message as well. I turned down the COM port settings on the laptop. Go to Hardware - Device manager - Ports (COM&LPT) and Properties of Communication port (USB) usually Com4 and in the advanced settings turn down the 'Latency timer' to 5 - it worked for me. That was using V409.1 of VAGCOM

Cheers Quicky, The 94 ones looks like the one I'm after! Many Thanks

Hi, Does anyone have the wiring diagram for a 93 VR6 - NOT the Bentley one! Especially the pin-outs from the ABS ECU and the ABS relays Please!

Azz, Stay clear of them - I bought them and the rear end bounces like hell. The springs are too harsh. I'm going to get new springs at some point - ones with a progressive rate - i.e. the spaces between the coils start large and get smaller. I needed something quick - I hit a rock at the roadside and it collapsed the strut. But stay away from them - you wouldn't like the ride.

Oh yes it can - if the government has a sniff at a new tax that's going to make money........I'm being to cynical - they wouldn't do that....would they :D :D

What a tip!!! If that's the state of the garage I wouldn't want to see the house. Just goes to show you can have a flash car and be a tramp.

Anyone??

Hi Folks, Does anyone know what the dips witches settings on the Laserline 996 alarm are? I'm trying to disable the auto re-arm function, and I'm sure there is a way of setting them to add another keyfob?

BBNeil, Why don't you reply to the Mr Petrov, as Borat - tell him your from Kazakhstan - and you not want him to drink fermented horse piss in your car. and ask if his wife is a clean prostitute....

As above - yes it is fiddly! I wouldn't have removed my one without a set of Irwin Bolt grips. A couple of the bolts were on tight and just rounded. They were probably worn by being removed previously. Give the housing a good inspection, as the plastic deteriorates over the years.

http://www.motuk.com/mot_manual/vin.asp Quite handy....

Probably a sticky flap in the ducting - went from the cold to hot setting. Pulling away gave the flap a wee nudge in the right direction. I've seen some cars needing a wee run when replacing the coolant, but nothing so sudden.