BigTartanJudge

But your never onshore pal, and if you are your always out on the lash ! ;-)

Nice, went and collected my new Recaro front seats from the couriers today. They look really good and the alcantara is so dark brown, it looks black anyways, so no need to dye it. Will see how they fit into the rado anyways, and what height they sit at, when I get her back......whenever that may be..........:-(

Uh all the interiors were Karmann and moulded seats...........

It's not a french reg BTW......

Use the search man, it's really your friend, and you'll 8 times outta ten find the answer to commonly asked questions like these using this function ! Anyways, here's the info you require, you can buy SNS G60 chips direct from the UK-SNS tuning (Bilal) rep at: http://www.snstuning.co.uk/ How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) Rambo 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu Smile Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Cheers and HTH

Nice car mate, but be careful you don't get pulled for incorrect digit spacing / misrepresentation of number plate as you risk a £2500 fine and having the DVLA take away your plate !

Early S2's (3B) had 220 BHP and 309 ft-LBS torque, whilst later ones (ABY) had 230 BHP and 350 ft-LBS torque as standard ! Also check the 3rd and 4th cars for sale down in this link, one a 420BHP MTM-tuned 1996 S2 coupe and other a 370BHP (basically making it an RS2-coupe, which Audi never made, has been fitted with loads of RS2 parts etc and huge AP brakes) 1993 S2 coupe, if I had spare cash would love the red one as loads of car for the cash, change the alloys and fit some 993 mirrors, there, job done ! http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/list.asp?s=511

I think she would be a right squealer ;-)

Dials and gauge look cool man ;-) Fluorescent / electroluminescent / luminous orange or red paint can be bought from most good model or craft supply shops or alternatively, eBay, try here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/30ml-UV-Reactive- ... dZViewItem Cheers and HTH

Jabba G60 chips / remaps are notorious for badly over-fueling the G60 engine. Could be a simple case of a SNS chip and adjusting the timing !

Go and see Jabba ? Uh, no.........get on to SNS tuning here: http://www.snstuning.co.uk/ And as mentioned already, get a stage 6 anti-lag chip, much better, improved throttle response, higher performance and no over-fueling.

got my crystal ones from volksbits, same fit as standard and look loads better, bout £15 delivered.

The wheels could well have been porous since new (depends on quality of casting procedure in the factory etc.)or may have become porous over time due to corrosion at various points on the wheel and do not necessarily have to be only porous around the outside of the rim where alloys are prone to corrosion, it just depends really. Normal tyre-slip / sealant used when re-fitting tyres should be sufficient. I would tend to check the valves first and poss replace with proper bolt-in metal ones (less prone to perishing over time and more sturdy) or just new rubber ones (alloy bolt-in ones £15-£20 set) for about £12 a set.

That one with the panels missing was a supercharged VR but he is now changing the supercharger for a turbo AFAIK Here's a vid of a 2.8L V6 24V turbo'd MK3 Jetta............and glimpse of a shricked-up VR6 turbo rado.

Porous alloys = imperfections caused by poor quality casting / formed during inadequate cooling process, resulting in tiny pin-prick holes in the metal, causing air to escape over time.

Only real option is to get the holes filled and welded-up, then get the now blank centre sections redrilled to the proper MK2 / rado 4x100PCD hole / hub spacing (would still need to run spigot rings to change from the 72.5mm BMW centre-bore to the required 57.1mm VW centre-bore.) These are lovely wheels but I found the same problem, when I thought about fitting them, since they are readily and widely available and are alot cheaper than the equivalent BBS RS VW fitment 16" / 17" wheels. There are a few places that will do the welding-up / re-drilling and I can supply details of these if required. You would also really have to get the backs of the wheels machined by 7-10mm (10mm at most) but this will still make offset ET20-23 (but no adapters would be required). Since car is so low, just running these re-drilled wheels without getting backs machined would make offset ET13 (as they are standard) which would PROB just fit but there would be issue with tyre scrubbing etc and arches would need rolled / lips grinded off etc. I used to run 9x16 ET15 Borbet B's on my last rado and although they fitted, I had prob's with tyre scrubbage etc. even with arches rolled (car was lowered alot). I had a set of BMW BBS RC042 (7.5" wide fronts, 8.5" rears) on my G60 for a while and I have pics to prove they didnt sit out from the arches at all, and they were offset ET22 with 20mm adapters. If you just used the thinnest adapters possible (would have to get 15mm thick ones made, as thinnest 5x100-5x120PCD available off-shelf are 20mm thick, or just get these machined by 5mm each), the offset would be ET-2, which is just not really possible at all on a rado, without HUGE arch mods etc, espcially as the car is lowered 100mm just not possible mate. Plus if you did this you would have to change your PCD anyways from 4x100PCD to 5x100PCD, involves changing hubs, discs, CV's and bearings etc. HTH mate and good-luck with whatever you decide to do, Cheers

Can anyone help me out with part numbers for the chrome interior door handles for the Passat GLS ? Going to see if I can get them from VAG. If not will just have to bite the bullet and buy a sert for a MK2 as I believe these fit the same onto early rado door-cards ?

The L200 series (based on the Hanomag-Henschel company F35 series) van was introduced by Mercedes-Benz in 1965. It had either a 1.6L 42BHP Austin carb'd engine or a 2L 50BHP Daimler-Benz engine. 1972 saw the arrival of a more powerful 2.2L 60BHP diesel engine. Very old design of van though, based on a 1949 Tempo-Matador 4WD delivery van (DID have a VW engine though and was predecessor to the Hanomag Matador E (F35 series) which preceeded the L400/L200 series). The actual van design was all Merc, though the engineers obviously used similar styling cues, at the rear-end at least, to the rear of the VW Type 2 vans. Reason I know a bit about these is my parents used to own one, a L208D ! Then they progressed to the Merc TN series 207D, the T1 series 208D, then laterly the T1 N (first early "Sprinter" type) 211D, which they still run today. All the vans they had were converted by my dad into motorhomes by himself. Believe it or not the L200 series are a rare sight in the UK, but they were very popular on the continent, esp in France and Germany, where you can still see some on the road today as bread-vans, general work-horse vans etc ! Good spot of that one above, I think their ace ! Cheers

SEAT have now increased the price of their Brembo calipers to around £180-£200 EACH now. However, Renault use Brembo calipers on their new Clio Cup and Megane 225 models so they may be cheaper ? Also, the new Honda Integra DC5 uses Brembo calipers as does high-spec Nissan models, so they may be woth looking at too. Also know that Focus RS / Mitsi Evo / Subaru Impreza newer models use Brembo front's. Lastly, IIRC new Merc C / E-Class models use Brembo front calipers as do older Fiat Coupe's as well as Audi RS models and of course lots of Porsche models (inc. older ones) so they be worth looking at as well. I really don't think it's possible to buy new Brembo 4-pot calipers that cheaply anymore from dealers etc. (I may be proved wrong) but there are always LOADS of good second-hand ones for sale on eBay all the time, just checked and have seen, Audi RS2 / Fiat Coupe / Focus RS / Merc C-Class / Intergra DC5 etc. Cheers and HTH

I would have thought a potential problem with using the twin-inlet airbox set-up with just an induction hole in the bottom would have been turbulence issues inside the airbox, wheras using a twin unduction cone set-up and cold air feed would avoid this issue ? Or I am talking outta my ar5e ??

As above, standard big-brake kits Porsche / Brembo's will NOT fit behind Borbet due to spoke clearance. Only ones that MAY fit are Willwood 4-pots or POSS. Hi-Spec.

A have a set of Audi 80 / 90 handles cut out of doors for sale if anyone is interested, £25 delivered.

I have a CO pot flange in stainless steel I can cut out of a pipe and send to you or just cut out a section containing the flange ? Let me know if you want it, Cheers

Not necessarily true about there not being an increase in power, have seen gains of 8-10 BHP on G60 engines with the addition of a front-mounted intercooler.

My Jan 1992 G60 has ABS / EDL and you right, it doesn't do much unless Sell rest of the engine for £300-£400 and get base car costing you around £1000. Spend £1100 on the QPENG plug and play loom and managment plus downpipe etc and bout' £400 on other bits (intercooler and pipework etc.), £1000 for the 20VT lump getting you a 20VT K03s rado with 230+BHP for £3500 (if you stick engine in youself) or pay someone to drop it in and connect her up for another £750 ish. Max £4500 = game on ;-)