_Matt_

Thanks Fla. A shame as the trackrods prior are only 3 years old/less than 5k. I've left the clips off the ends so I dont end up in the same place come new alignment. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Wow quite an update! Kieran Rado and his data makes for great reading and analysis. Sounds like you've had a bad old time with it but got there in the end. I've had a crap year with mine and positively hate the thing these days. Assuming I fixed it I may get enthusiasm back. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Well, an update. I went to have to car aligned this week thinking it was just that causing my issue. The garage said the track rods did not seem right for the car and there was some dodgy-ness with the gaitors. I cant be sure it wasn't them that caused this or the people who aligned it back in April, however as I understand it the cable ties (ideally proper clips but nk space to install when sub frame on car) should have been removed for the alignment otherwise the boot just twists with the track rod arm. The gaitors were hanging off the rack on one side so perhaps my inner track rod joint had failed causing the clonk. No movement at 9 and 3 on the wheel though. Anyway I went ahead and changed the inner and and outer track rods today and will get it aligned next week. Fingers crossed it solves the issue. There is nothing else left to change now. I did make special effort to ensure the little tube that runs from each side seated nicely in the gaitor. Not a fun job with limited space. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Yup :( could keep the bit you cut out to weld back in if you get rid I guess. Not a huge issue either way but for me it would upset me to see something cut out. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Good stuff always good to have a spare. If you get stuck post up or message me happy to help. Once you get the cap off you'll see it - there is a spring and rod in there as well but it's no different to a spring loaded pen.

I did that job and did a guide in my car's thread however the photos went missing with the forum. I use a stanley knife to cut the seal which allowed me to get at the circuit board. My solder joints were dry so i cleaned them up and applied new solder. Push it back together with some waterproof sealent and it's be fine for about 4 years. Alternatively Vince will do it if you post to him for I guess £50 but that was 4 years ago so probably £300 today with inflation 😄

I'm with you there. Cars booked in to solve the clonk and a wheel alignment. They are a tough sell the Corrados so suspect I will be waiting weeks for my financial loss to materialise. A shame but I prefer my mk2 16v (wash your mouth out on this forum) and was wowed by one in the same spec at Silverstone in the paddock so will focus there instead. I actually prefer my mk3 16v as well but will be getting rid of that and hoping to try out a different brand and sports car next time. Midlife vw crisis ending (lol probably true). Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Nice one Dox and good luck getting it out on the road. Nice colour too. I'm attempting to sell mine ... on autotrader etc.

There is part 2. This car is a love hate relationship but it does look pretty sweet as in the video in my eyes. Messaged Vince yesterday when I got back from Silverstone about the issue and ringing next week to book in and he said check the gearbox mount. He's great for getting back to me on a Sunday. Car is annoying me right now and since April. Can't get an alignment until solved and can't push it for fear of it falling apart. It was nice to have keyo in my rear view mirror yesterday enroute to Silverstone - these cars have such presence on the road but must admit an oak green mk2 16v stole the show in my eyes on the day... a car I have waiting in the wings once mk3 16v finished and this white corrado not demanding such attention. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

OK I've done another test with the chocks (will be uploaded in about 40min). Didnt do it though. Wish I could get it on video. Will try again after taking it for a longer drive. I will have a look at the exhaust again. Stealth did push it back a bit back in April as it was hitting the beam. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Side tracked today with house chores but made a video trying to make it clonk with a ramp but nope. Hopefully a bit later I will do the following: Strip and clean rear brakes. They squeek so not releasing fully. Check driveshaft bolts Re torque top mounts for the millionth time (lol). Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I'll check tomorrow but this happened on the original driveshafts as well. What about the gearbox or clutch fork? Its probably going to need specialist attention at this rate. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I've not powdercoated on the corrado. I didnt really know about it when I started out. I have checked torque on all bolts though. It is odd how a long journey causes it. I read on vw vortex a vw service bulletin describing my situation to be dry bearings and installation of a new bearings. It could well be thst as this started after new bearings were installed amongst other things. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

For god sake it's still clonking on occasional reversing. The car has been fine but took it to Silverstone today and reversing into spot - crack. It actually more of a crack noise than clonk. The car has been on a shacker plate and drives fine straight ahead. My thoughts are now perhaps sticking rear calipers - they so squeek when I am driving - a job I havent got round to. Or cracked subframe? But surely that would make noises all the time. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Well spotted ;) I wasn't sure as had an awful time with some topran stubs axles where the abs sensor would not clear the abs ring. Swapped out for meyle and found the hole for the abs sensor had been machined in the wrong place. I tired swapping the gold ring around and and loads of other things to conclude the issue. Never buy topran. I knew this but they were on offer so I took a punt. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Tell a lie they still have 2 so perhaps are managing inventory but an utter butt F to pay 25 euro + post for two! https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/2107-genuine-191501639b-cover.html

for me i paid £300 cash for Alternator, Starter motor and PAS refurb but think i got a discount for doing all at once. He sourced oem parts from all over Europe and got the original stickers as well. Wishbones - sometimes there are issues with non oem hitting the ARB as clearence is tight. Believe Lemforder or OEM is the way to go. Bolts is quite a substantial cost I had not bargained for. I could hardly re-use any of them and it looks a bit pants against freshly powdercoated frames! And that gold ring in the pictures is obsolete but needed for sub axle rebuild work. I bought the last 4 listed on some French site earlier this year 😞

Also if you have OEM wishbones drop them off for powdercoating rather than replace with powdercoating. The bushes press in easily with a bench vice or if you're fairly local to me (Herts, i think you might be?) you're welcome to use my 20t press (or i'll do it :). I went for R32 bushes on the rears of the wishbone. https://www.facebook.com/SPSUSPENSIONLTD did the Koni coilovers on my mk2 https://www.facebook.com/carparts.buryfarm.3 are great for refurbing components such as the alternator. There are pics of my stuff on there - great job.

I've done/in the process of doing this on my mk2 16v and mk3 16v and have done the work minus powder coating on the Corrado (silly boy but in my defence i didn't know about it at the time and it was my first renovation). Keyo on here is a fountain of knowledge re parts and parts diagrams and I am sure will post and support but what I did, aside from ask Keyo for help, was to study the parts diagrams i.e. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/COR/076 which is basically ETKA online and jot down the part numbers of all the bits I needed for each section I was renovating. I actually found it a really enjoyable aspect of the renovation but less so finding out most parts are obsolete. Sometimes you get lucky and LLL parts stock the items for reasonable cost but other times you have to get resourceful and start hunting the internet for part numbers. If you search in google with quotations i.e. "535201075AA" google will find you results of items matching the exact part number. For bolts and washers etc I found a lot of things needed were obsolete so instead I would look for the bolt specs on the internet instead. Always make sure you go for 10.9 tensile and not the usual 8.8 tensile. VW chassis side bolts are always 10.9. Also get yourself and thread and pitch tool so you can measure the bolts that are on the car and get the right non oem replacements. Avoid crappy brands - topran for example are utter rubbish. I have just bought some stub axles for the mk3 golf (exact same part nos as Corrado) and found the hole of the ABS sensor was slightly in the wrong place meaing the sensor fouled against the abs ring. I replaced with Meyle items and they were fine. Try not to bulk at the price of quality brands - bosch, lemforder - as I can almost guarentee if you don't end up buying them first you will do after buying something from topran/jp group etc. Also note the mk3 5x100 golf rear axle and front drivetrain is identical to the Corrado. You can get parts from facebook breakers i.e Leo GS for reasonable prices. Lastly use LLL Parts, Autodoc and Mecatechnic.com for parts. Heritage is usually full of cheapo topran crap and they tend to only work part time though don't write them off completely as they are a pretty good as conduit to get parts from VW Classics in Germany (there is a link on their website). Do take your patience pills when dealing with Heritage though as it can be frustrating experience. You can try vw parts departments as well for parts but vw don't support their classics and everything is usually obsolete. You can however get bargains if it is in stock. Good luck and feel free to post for help and we can step in to assist. Edit - Lastly if you are doing the work yourself get yourself a set of Irwin sockets. They have saved me countless times on crusty bolts.

me too, i dont think Lotus3512 post hit the forum until now even though it is stamped June. He and I msg'd via messenger on here back in June - I sent him some pics of what I had with my car. It was a pretty interesting story (to us anyway) - his Audi 80 Coupe (V6) was purchased from the same dealer as my Corrado. Our cars would have sat together in the company car park for approx 4 years. Our books that came with the car have the same handwriting in so assume the same Sales person dealt with both too.

Looked a great show and wish I went. Shame there was so much music in the hanger preventing youtubers recording but I am sure the visitors at the event got a good nose around your motor 🙂 Garage is coming along nice. Black Magic will be tucked up cozy come winter.

Hey Cressa re the NRV - back in early ownership I had starting issues when warm. I did a load of troubleshooting and also fitted the valve to try and solve but it didn't. My issue turned out to be leaky fuel injectors. On cold start fuel pressure built up and it was enough to start the car. When the car was warm the injectors leaked into the cylinders and flooded the engine. The car would crank and crank and eventually splutter into life. Edit to add I also had a new fuel pump fitted at the time too but Vince said mine was noisey and it was done as job after the above work and before I got the car back so not sure whether it was linked. Like you I did the crank, camshaft, all temp sensors before Stealth took a look.

Wish I bougbt koni T/As now and avoided this issue. But just been for a another spin and no noises and steering feels way way better too. The top plates above probably could have been drilled out wider to allow proper fitment. In 4 years this has never been right. Perhaps on first install the garage were able to use an impact gun to force it down. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

OK I took the shocks off and rebuilt from scratch to torques. I noted the top spring plate was very difficult to remove from the threads the of the Bilstein shock - they are a wider thread than stock. This is probably why the assembly wasn't bolted in fully secure. I had some replacement caps from the mk3 that fitted over the threads nicely. I rolled the car back and forth before torquing the bolt for these. I put it back together with the shocks swapped over to opposite sides and set the camber to zero degrees (in the air with a jack under wishbone- quick and dirty). Went for a spin. It did clonk again once as I first reversed, but a lighter clonk like the spring reseating itself. It was then fine for thr rest of the test drive. I was pretty rough with it to test. Fingers crossed but have been here before... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Been to the local garage, great guys but they don't know older VWs inside out. They do take great care of the car though. Car went on shacker machine and no problems down below with bushes, arb, bearings but there is a problem with the top mount on the side the noise comes from. When they jacked the car up after the shacker machine the passenger side shock dropped a small amount and the noise was heard from the top of the shock. On testing there is lateral and vertical movement (about half a cm up and down but I think this is normal on VWs?). This is the 2nd new top mount (lemforder) installed this side. Either Stealth and myself have installed these incorrectly or there is something else amiss. A few questions if anyone can help. I may have to go back to Stealth (100mile trip) for diagnoises but am supposed to be showing the car at Silverstone and doubt I'll get it sorted intime if I go that route. - When installing the springs I ensured the ears on the spring plate and shock lined up with the ends of the spring. I also bought new springs plates from VW classic parts. - I didn't do anything special with lining up the top mount, just plonked it on and put a vw shock/topmount bush nut and then put the top plate and nut on when installed in the car. I used my impact gun as the allen head is rounded on the shock with the issue. I guess the shock could have spun and the garage today suggested I used mole grips with a rag on the shock body to make sure and torque up properly. - One remark - when I did the job to switch over to H&R springs, from eibach, altough the noise was still happening with eibach, i noticed a normal nut had been used on top of the bearing rather than the special VW bush nut. It would have been like this since the shocks were first installed a good 4 years ago and was the reason i changed the spring plates as they were misshapen. Could my shock be fecked? - Last Q - the garage said the camber is normally setup on the top mount placement hence my q above on not doing anything special when locating the topmount. I thought we did camber on the 2 bolts on the bottom of the shock on these cars? Do coilovers have the same setup as the spring plate used to convert later corrados to early spring design?