_Matt_

Hi, Just another thing I'm looking for info on - the torque spec of the rear wishbone/control arm bush that bolts up into the capitve nut in the chassis leg. My mk2 / 4x100 haynes manual states 130NM which is quite high but I've seen it referenced in a few places so am assuming that would be correct for a 4x100 Corrado. My haynes manual for the mk3 golf (for 4cyl cars only) states 70NM + 90 degrees which is odd as the 4x100 mk3s are the same set up as mk2s and that torque rating appears to match what 5x100 cars are publicised elsewhere. However this website appears to state 130NM for 4cyl mk3s so at odds with Haynes (inc i assume 16v) but 70NM for the VR6 but that doesn't make sense to me either since the 4cul 16v/8v GTI subframes are the same as the VR6 and also the same as what we have in Corrado VR6s https://www.torkspec.com/torkspecmm.aspx?KI=533 Put me out of my misery - would i be right to assume the Corrado VR6 5x100 would match the mk3 Golfs 70NM + 90 (and infact that rating is the 5x100 cars rather than just VR6 as noted on the trokspec website) for this bolt? Not sure why it is so different to the mk2 / 4x100 since it is very similar in design. I will want to remove my VR6 subframe at some point in the future and am also putting back together my mk3 16v which should have the same specs as the Corrado VR6 so want to make sure I am using the correct settings. Cheers Matt

Ahh i see, i'm not on the locating lugs assume so - Vince/team fitted them. They are 20mm spacers matching bolts for oem speedlines. The wheel weights were hitting the calipers intially so tthat and aesthetics was the reason to fit. I do have 16s as well that don't require the spacers - worth a try to swap them over as well. I do torque the bolts to 120nm.

another pic - this was taken when i got home and put the springs on

Yeah refurbished at Bigg Red but they were used before hand. I'll strip the off and reinstall as next game plan - those front springs were not installed for the first 80 miles and I can see the piston section could rotate without them. Maybe that has happened and they are out of alignment.

Is that on the 280s fen? I don't think the 288s have he spring clip like that. The calipers them selves are freshly refurbished by Bigg Redd, i will check the slide pins for good measure but hoping they've done their job right!

Cheers! The springy thing - ah yes it is now BUT I forgot to take it with me to the garage so had to drive back 80 or so miles without it. I went to Stealth as they did lots of work to car previously and wanted a once over as well, I know seems mad driving that far for this type of work. I'll grab some ceramic grease in the meantime as it sounds like its time to strip them off and refit. Mayve the pads shifted out of shape without the springs in place now you mention it.

Hi, I'm getting an occassional clonk that reverberates through the spring. I can't make it do it by swerving on the road, moving about on the drive or by physically moving components with a breaker bar, but it seems to happen after the brakes have been applied and let off i.e. reversing off my mums drive - clonk, pulling out of a junction after coming to a stop - clonk. Initally, and before I noticed it was after the applying the brakes, I thought it was probably ball joint related so changed them last weekend. I suspected them anyway because I bought them second hand (unused) in a parts buy and the steering at speed didn't feel as tight as it did prior to fitting those parts. That steering issue has been fixed with the replacement ball joints but the intermettient clonk has not. Prior to all of this I had a bit of work done on the corrado last month after that work the clonk appeared - new top mounts, new ball joints, new bearings and the fitment of Big Redd refurb'd 288 calipers. Most of the other components have less than 3,000 miles on them (outer cv joints, inner and outer track rods, all bushes, shocks and springs). There is no movement in the usual 3-9 and 6-12 rocking and no play with a breaker bar on the bushes or any play on the shock / spring on side to side movement. Probably should have just done the work myself since I am having to do it anyway but was trying to save time and wanted the car nice for summer, plus having faught removing the driveshaft from the hub on a mk3 5x100 car i did not want to be in the same place with the Corrado - they glue them in from factory! Anyway history over - I am now suspecting the calipers and pads not retracting properly causing the clonk on release. Anyone had this - is there something better than copper grease for the ears of the calipers assuming it that? Cheers Matt

Re - added myself now I've moved. This is me, if you see me wave or come and say hello. Always happy to chat 🙂

They are on facebook as well if you're on there https://www.facebook.com/Bury-Farm-Car-Parts-108099504336371/

Great find on the hose and even better to find an engineering firms who can knock something up. Can be real hassle finding parts and I hadn't even thought such a thing existed on the car so something for my list to replace.

Cheers! I was very happy to see the results. The bearing on the alternator was noisey which prompted the job (and turns rough on the PAS too). I looked at the cost of new parts but it would have worked out more than what those guys charged for the refurb for Bosch or equiv parts. Really great to have a firm fairly central in the country that can fix our 30 year old parts! It is a slippery slope this game of making parts look pretty (and work properly too!).

Could do I guess but the blue pipe is a return and not under much pressure compared to the other one. Theortically i suppose you could just run a fuel pipe and do away witht the plastic bit then they would not clip up into factory clips.

Hi, I was impressed with some refurbishment work I had done on the alternator, starter and PAS pump and thought I'd share the results. I didn't expect them to turn out so well so hope you enjoy the before and after shots as much as me. The chap puts on the oem stickers as well - nice touch. Bury Farm Autoparts in Bedfordshire did the work for £300 for all 3 units. He said he sources original compenents from all over Europe. They are actually a breakers yard with this business on the side. Real nice chap doing the work too.

Nice, like a G60. Good luck the paint! I'm on a 18mth waiting list for mine, just seems to way it is with the decent bodyshops around my area 😞

Nice to see the car tonedef looks a real nice example (and yours Shaun as well with the cameo appearence above!). We should all post more pictures of our cars, I'm guilty as well. I'm sure it gives others a boost seeing them, does me as I get blase looking at mine.

Did mine yesterday. Thanks Keyo I hadn't realised the brass was inside the hard plastic pipes. I did use the dremmel in my situation as pipes were done on the work bench. Took 5mins max and way easier than I had imagined.

tbf youe metal collars in in great condition. Mine are heavily corroded - is the pipe you're concerned about? There is something inside the pipe under the metal collar to stop it getting crushed. To cut the metal collar just take a dremmel or metal snips to cut length ways from front to back and it will come off.

Hi, lots or people doing this job, inc me and am about to approach it this afternoon. Good preventative maintenance. To remove those clips you cut down from front to back with a dremmel or some metal pliers. @Keyo on here has done it a few times on car in recent weeks and will be able to give some tips Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

£25 deposit paid, cheers

Nice, can't beat an early Corrado on perfect proportions.

Thanks, just purchased enough for my cars.

Uniroyal? Good wet weather properties. It is a tough tyre size to source these days... I upgraded to 16s becuase of it!

What the - so your Black Magic car has had a VSR manifold on it not once but twice! She's a naughty little tart for her tasty parts habit, and not to mention her letting her knickers down for grubby hands on her oily parts many times. That siad - John Austin - what a waste of money the prev owner forked out. If the timing was "miles out" and he left the car with two bent valves following the job which you get sorted that is very much a case in point as to why go anywhere else for this type of work.

Yeah mate I would be worried about that too. I'll pick it up next week, it's for the best 😄 😄 😄

Yeah you've done it right and can start from scratch treating it well. It really is pot luck without the rebuild if you're buying in at 150k like I did. I do expect the bill at some point! It is a bit of bad luck on your engine though, wonder why a SEAT dealer did it? Wonder how much experience they really have on that motor. At least it all behind you now though.