_Matt_

ahhh gutted to see that. Some thinners on a rag should get the white marks out and a mobile dent man can hopefully do the rest. Otherwise there are smart repairs who could just paint what is needed. You're right about respray - paying out to get that done and having it damaged again would be soul destroying and may well prevent you from using the car. Even after a respray you may find you have issues like water leaks or whatever, tbh unless the car really needs full paint I would not recommend it on both cost, hassle and having something so perfect you might not use it. If your damage is just bumper corners I'd get a smart guy round to do it. If you need more than that I would just get the sides painted and the bumpers sorted. If doing the sides take a look at the sills (back, a-pillars behind wing) and get them back to metal and repaired. If its just door dings and that arch (post thinners) that need dents removing i'd get a dent man round and keep your paint - perhaps get it professionally mopped and polished and it will look almost as good as respray without the hassle and cost!

Sadly that looks like it has gone for scrap/breaking. Not MOTd since 2009, 228k and rust reported on the subframe mounting areas would suggest curtains back in 2009 when their values were still quite low. Good luck in your search however.

oh damn that is one very nice looking Corrado. Like the wheels a lot. Good luck with future endevours and hope to see you back one day!

Interesting cheers Dox. I do have some spare lightly used Pagid pads I could swap. I am not sure what is in there and didn't recognise the brand when the garage got them in. I took the car out for a spin yesterday and no noises. Maybe the cermaic grease is doing something and it is/was the pads. Perhaps a case of use and monitor as it's driving OK. I just don't want to pay out to get a proper camber alignment (track is fine) if I have to remove the shock assembly again - anyone know if it is possible to remove the drive axle without moving the shock? I don't think it is possble? Perhaps by loosening the ball joint maybe? Rear ABS sensor played up yesterday again after reset so also have that to go and look at. Discs and rings are a few years old so hopefully just needs a clean rather than disassembly....

Still haven't solved this. So far i have stripping the brakes and used the ceramic grease on the pad ears and I did also find the slide pins were dry as bone so applied some TRW slide pin grease. I've also swapped out the ball joints. All bushes are still new looking and all bolts are torqued up to spec. I have solid R32 rear wishbone bushes in place. Engine mounts seem good on rocking - the car as a VT up front and lemforder rears installed in 2019. I've also swapped over to H&R springs (much more comfy than eibach btw on Bilstein B8 dampers) so have had the entire shock assembly out and back in. Installed new spring plates with the springs and top mounts as part of the swap over. No 6/12 or 3/9 play in the wheel. Bearings spin nicely are were installed back in April. The noise is intermittent. I rocked the car back and forth whilst moving the steering wheel slightly and heard the noise once. It is a singular clonk that reverberates through the spring. Car drives normally otherwise. My next port of call is going to be the ARB drop link - they look fine but are 3 years /4,000 miles old now but dunno how to test them. Driveshafts are another thought as they will have seen some impact when the bearings were done but I am not getting your typical failed driveshaft noises.

Inner CV joint or even outer? Inner sounds like this -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgcMJPURYMA Outer like this -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjljUMi-Tc8

Looks nice and good to see you still have it. I also like the alloys too - I love an easy to clean smart 5 spoke.

Looks great and quick turnaround once it got in. I like the colour- is that black magic? Looks amazing in the Sun. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

That sounds the stuff - good job.

There is a some good 3M tape @keyo knows about for those rear windows - the tape pulls the rubber sufficiently away from the paint so you get paint under the rubber rather than a hard line alongside it. The rubber expands and contracts with temperature changes and if paint not far enough under the rubber you'll see the paint line in the winter and eventually around that hard corner at the rear edge the paint will crack and flake off. It was for that reason I had my car painted (windows out jobby for me) as I hated seeing the paint line!

I noticed the volume of cars for sale too, some have been knocking about for a long time. Sign of the time (recession, cost of living) or typical pre summer sales or perhaps both. I don't recall seeing so many. Interesting to see the helios blue GTI engineering slowly tumble back down to what it was advertised at on the lot in Manchester (10k if i recall). It is with a different seller started at - 16k, 13k ( i enquired at that point and on all adverts it went back up to 16k), back to 13k, 12k today. It's a 7/8k car tops as does need recomissioning from sitting and even then it will smash corrado 16v values. Seller still appears to be a special one - see first line on advert about "mummys". https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294985231277?hash=item44ae7d6bad:g:4H4AAOSw5UtiLL5i

I bought those speakers as well as the Alpine versions for the doors and dash. I had the 6x4s and the door speakers installed for a long time and also left the factory tweeters installed. The sound was not great but a couple of weekends ago I installed the 4in versions in the dash and sound quality improved massively. I am using the connectors in Cressa's first post but did need to splice into the factory wires to install the dash speakers, Factory tweeters have an in and out + crossover which you discard.

Probs best to check your door membranes first (door card off job). The Sunroof seal is supposed to leak water into the drip tray which is then sent out via the sunroof drains. They may well be blocked if your door membranes are good and will be another place to check.

they were nothing special - just those Alpine E series direct fit jobbies. I had to cut the 4 ears where the screws go from the dash mount speakers but the others were a direct fit. I have bought some foam sound insulation i plan to cut and put behind each speaker to give it something to fire against to improve things a little further.

Great price. The UK loves a hot-hatch and that one has done particularly well considering it isn't the more desired big bumper version. I hope the Corrado follows suit being 5 or so years behind the mk2 in age but my gut feel is that it won't perform quite as well. In realitive terms there are still quite a lot of Corrado VRs knocking about compared to mk2 16vs. It will be interesting to see how the market plays out if numbers lessen, though I noted over the last 10 years Corrado numbers have not even halved yet Mk2 16v (inc mk3 16v as couldn't get the split) are only a 1/5 of what they were 10 years ago. Those were taxed and tested numbers I was looking at. Perhaps Corrados have been cossetted weekend drivers where as the mk3/mk2 16v were used as dailys and killed off to current numbers.

I recently installed 2 way speakers into the dash (4in) and the sound quality improved dramatically. Previously I had 2 ways in the door and the factory tweeter with crossover in the dash and it was pretty crap. I guess it is becuase the sound reflects off the screen towards your head but I was shocked at the level of improvement.

thanks for the update and no worries on any delays from me 🙂

That's a bit of blow but good the car is in somewhere it can be fixed properly once and for all.

Thanks Bauhaus, yes it looks ok but is a couple of years old now. I had to remove the drop link lower bolt to change the ball joint. When I had a drop link fail on my daily they rattled all the time on bumpy roads. The Corrado is pretty intermittent. That said I'd may as well throw a new one on as have a spare set here.

mega thanks on that - took copies if you need to take it down. Interesting so it's 18 i am referring to 70NM + 90 degrees but on the mk2 it is 130NM for all wishbone bolts. That is quite some difference. I'll check everything on my Corrado for torque with this info. It is going give me a headache on my mk2 16v (ABF block, KR fuelling) where I am installing a mk3 subframe with 4x100 arms - i guess i will take the 130NM route. Having fouling issues with bonnet and mk3 rear engine mount can be chopped down if needed to aid clearence.

Cheers I'll check the torques and play - i don't think that link has the torque for the wishbone bushes unless I am blind (could well be.. ).

Cheers I'll check the torques and play - i don't think that link has the torque for the wishbone bushes unless I am blind (could well be.. ).

Yes early corrado's and BBS/Sebrings look spot on. I'm running the 15in speedlines on mine and agree they don't look as good as an early car. I like the cars stance as well.

Yeah i've done that with pry bar and shake around - also put another thread up re torque for rear wishbone bush - never touched it on this car but am working on my mk3 and am not sure what the rating is. Also the bush is also fairly new and a Leon Cupra R/R32 solid rubber bush.

I'll check the mounts good shout but do have new mounts at the back and a VT at the front. Yeah on the 15s I could have got the weights moved but I wanted the wheels spaced out anyway. The noise does come from either side of the car when it happens - like when I reverse of my mums drive it is always on the pass side as I turn the wheel left to exit. When I pull out of right hand junction it happens on the drivers side :S