Scruffythefirst

For real performance, I reckon a tripple rotor 13b in a dax rush mc chassis with the camber compensation. Should do 500kgs and 600bhp without too much trouble. That will be my next project, after the barge.

After 9 months of doing nothing I've dumped my GF* so I can finish it :shock: Its got wheels! Yay. Not much left to do as dinkus says - ecu loom (run out of braid and heat shrink) few fiddly jobs, powder coat the remaining bits, assemble the brakes etc, dash wiring etc, wideband lambda setup and exhaust to go. Oh, yeah and put the scuttle back on! Will post pics soonish. Theres not a lot to see really, its a car. In bits :D * :oops: :evil: :mrgreen:

Oh, and does anyone know which cars with an IRS rear ran the engine backwards (rotation in the opposite direction to normal?)

still bust? Wheels are due thursday, seeing pro alloy tommorow loom bits will get ordered eventually, then its finished

Keep thinking of a mid engined 4wd C. Got a good idea for it, but no idea if the parts are available. Get that weight back inside the wheels for once!

Should have bought a lighter car then you could have solid discs and lost nearly half the weight.

Well I took one off, shame I didn't manage to get all three bolts out eh!

On a serious note, do not mix Dot 5 with any other type of brake fluid (Ie don't use it) as it will dissolve all your brake seals if they have had different fluid in them. Dot 5.1 is fine but dot 5 is silicon which is baaaad

A few I took from the renault sport day out. Got some on 35mm that i'll show you when its developed. My Pc bits turned up yet? ;-)

buy another 2.8, replace the R32 lump in the mk 4 and start cramming it in the Mk2. Sell the C and Mk4 and get a Derv runabout.

fair play, much improvement over the old C's brakes?

A single spacer would be better, but washers are fine. I'd check with dinkus exactly what spacers he ended up with cos the original 6mm stack was too big iirc.

its not the washers that are keeping the cariers still, they will have very little effect on radial movement, its pretty much down the bolt alone, you could probably get away with floating spacers if you had to. There shouldn't be much in the way of lateral force either.

Its overkill tbh, normal washers will be fine so long as you do the bolt up tightly, and use a sufficient locking method (locktight or spring washer)

I had some very visible bits done in 2 pack and laquered cos the powdercoating place thought they'd get a better finish and a better choice of colours. My blocks done in hammerite, and i've got some stuff powdercoated in gloss black. Although if it did it again, i'd get everything done in 2 pac and laquered and all the brackets and stuff powdercoated. probably cost you less than £100 for 2 pac for the whole eningine and powdercoating.

Haynes don't tell you shit. To be fair, they do assume you buy everything from the dealer, and VW bolts will be 10.9 with the correct threadlock. If only they'd put 312's on the C originaly I wouldn't have had to give myself a hernia fron dinkus' concrete wheels

I would say so, All brake components that take load should be rated at least 10.9, preferably 12.9 and use a locking washer or the correct threadlock. - Although getting hex head bolts in 12.9 is nigh on imposible unless you can afford titanium. Do not under any circumstaces use stainless as they are reated less than 8.8. If you've got a siezed cap head you can get it out using lots of plus gas and a good allen key. Make sure the head is clean and insert the allen key on the sharp cut side, do not use the chamfered end or it'll round the bolt. Then get a long tube to use as an extension, good quality allen keys of the required size (use the longest one you can get your hands on before you extend it with a tube) shouldnt snap ( but if they do they're likely to shatter so be carefull). This ends the public service announcement :)

What grade?

You'll need a tab washer under the head of the bolt between the head and carrier or some locktight.

What are they like? I'm currently looking at a 2.2 as a cheap runaround (lowish millage as I have the works van) Anything I should look out for?

Sounds familliar.

They look good, but they arent any good if he can't stop, and he really needs to be able to stop as he can't drive Dinkus, did you get a chance to look at that audi on the way to work this morning?

I reckon new wheels dinky me owld boy. Or a bloody big hammer, i've got one thats just the ticket :)

Give me a couple of weeks and you can come round for the engine starting. Might need ear defenders though as it won't have an exhaust at that point.