Scruffythefirst

Well a little update, its been a while. Settled on the Azev A's as nothing else was available in ford fitement. They look pretty good on 7 style cars so thats cool. However, they've taken pretty much 3 months to get here, and they're still not here. I'm not happy. However, the shiny bits are coming along, custom radiator is in and theres a load more bits en route, just need a few paychecks from my new job and she'll be done. Hopefully she wont end up in a hedge....

Phone round the Local breakers and see if they've got anything, then wander up and take them off wouldn't be much more than 20-30 quid tbh. If kev's putting 312's on then try your wheels on his C and see if they fit.

Draining the oil shouldn't be too hard, run the car till its hot, then undo the drain plug a little bit at a time and let the oil drain out slowly, might take 5 minutes or so but better than an overheating car cos of too much oil. Alternatively, you can get sump pumps from boat chandlers designed for pumping oil out fo an engine throught the dipstick tube.

But their roads and public transport are a damn sight better than ours.

:roll: :roll: :roll: If you've just taken the head off then any movement in the pistons will be minimal and should be within tollerance, unless your smoking or rattling away like a goodun. Cast and forged pistons vary in their expansion so the clearance will vary depending on what type of pistons you've got. If everythings apart, then measure the bores diameter all the way round and at several heights and then the pistons properly and refer to the correct data sheet for your engine. Theres no way to tell just by rocking the pistons.

Washer's arent a problem so long as your using the correct spec bolts - standard fitement on the dax front brake upgrade. The banjo's you had were definately the wrong size. I think you really need to get someone who knows what they're doing with those brakes, those guys shouldnt be asking those sorts of questions. Plus all the Cv grease everywhere made me think that someone had been a bit over enthusiastic removing the old brakes.

Caged will be able to do you one to your spec, it'll be superb too - all the westy owners swear by phill at caged.

Anyone who runs a turbo might like to bear in mind that your oil is used to cool the core (as well as lubrication and there also being water cooling). Turbos regularly get hot enough to glow white so I'll be putting fully synth in the Dax and changing it every 3k / trackday.

Twice

I'd be insisting on one for pranging a C.

Any details on the photo's - exposure, film, digital setting etc? Looks superb :D

Choose a light colour so you can see oil leaks etc

Not round cambs / ely / old west you dont. And red deisel is currently about 40p /l and still available.

Red diesel is apprently being phased out anyway so all the poor farmers and canal boat owners are going to be raiding the cooking oil suppliers :)

Even on turbo's cars only the muppets and people with ultra fragile turbo's (T4's) run Dump valves. Chatter is so much nicer, or a standard recirculating DV at a push.

Chip fat is the way to go for yor diesel barge, trouble is you need an oldish diesel to run it.

However, oil in the intake charge can increase the chances of det, which is especially fatal on forced induction engines.

Rounded cap head bolts can be removed with a torx head bit a size too big a hammer and a breaker bar

It was a 94 VR. I'm sure there is a spring type thing attached to the compensator and the axel, it just unclips from the axel allowing the axel to drop without trashing the compensator. Then you can just unbolt the compensator as you can get to the bolts.

I don't see the problem, dinku's came off fine, just unclip it from the axel and then drop the axel.

Some pectel ecu's will do it too.

Yeah, but its not ideal as you have different pre /post butterfly port lengths and, especially if your using tapered TB's, it gets really complicated as the flow will be uneven but only at certain throttle positions. Probably not a big enough effect to worry about unless you're running higher compression ratios, cos your unlikely to do too much det damage on a standard engine, especially if you only put super unleaded in it.

flat bottom'd wheels are a pain in the arse for proper twirling antics

if you go for Megasquirt - approx £200 all in Dta, autronic, pectel etc etc £500 - £3k+ However, the unequal length inlets may cause you problems, so you'd need something with the ability to trim individual cyl fuel req. Forced induction every time, unless you've got race regs to comply with. Oh, and modern fuel injected bikes are a good source of cheap TB's if your handy with the fabrication

Any chance of the lowdown on the last pic in the first post - polo on the hard shoulder. Film, exposure etc etc. Chars ;)