Scruffythefirst

Thats correct kev, but the actuall clamping force is increased with lubricant as more of the torque is being used to pull the thread in and not in the turning action. As the bolt tightens the threads exert more force on the grooves which resists the turning. If the threads are cruddy you've already got a higher resistance to turning which will increase more quickly with load than a clean thread would. However, I'm with you - copperslip and 100nm. Don't forget that a steel stud and ally nut will corrode together which is why you NEED the copperslip

I'd take my torque wrench with me if I gave a shit about my cavalier - the dax still doesnt have wheels....

Try highbury hoses, likely to be a lot cheaper that anywhere else - not samco branded though.

I had the same problem with Dinkus' VR when he first got it. Broke 2 adaptors and a cheap socket. Went out and bought a set of 1/2" drive impact sockets and used my 36" breaker bar and they came out eventually. Copperslip is essential IMHO

Cheeky git :D Yup, my hubs are 4 stud 108's i'm afraid.

So do I, although Image do nicer ones still. However, image splitties are going to work out at about £1500 inc tyres and all the extras I'd need. If I can get a set of wheels for half that I can afford a chip for the ecu, a radiator and plumbing and brakes..... What offset and stud pcd etc - I need ford 4 stud :cry:

I can't decide which wheels I want (other than the ones I can't afford :cry: ) Please can I have these 2 wheels on this car, they're the only ones that I can find that will fit :cry: Cheers :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Not wide enough fortunately - I need 9x16's with as close to ET0 as possible.

Long story, which wheels do you prefer? Oh these fit too....

Well i thought the cheque bouncing was bad, I'm now redundant as well. Fired by fucking e-mail.....

Wooo found some wheels that will probably fit (Large birmingham screwdriver req.) Can't afford split rims (too much engine) although i'd like a set ideally or these Both will require a spacer of 10-12mm at the back....

Need wheels and front suspension first so they go in the right place and you know how much hassle its been to find wheels, as in I haven't :( Ohh and my cheque bounced close of play yesterday

I'll have you all know i've bound most of the loom in proper harwall tubing wrapped with proper almalgamating loom tape. A few wires have had flexible nylon braided sheath as required. I also had to go back a step to go forward :D Now we've got the bodywork on (just taped in position for the moment untill I go get some more glue and work out exactly how its supposed to fit :D) And a random one of the engine halfway through build

You certainly don't need a dump valve unless your running specific turbos at very high boost (T4 - 30psi)- nearly all standard turbos actually run with less lagg without the dumpvalve....

That would be France then :wink:

2wd, 4wd is an order of magnitude more complicated and expensive and theres no room inthe engine bay as it is. Hairy in the wet? You must be mad, its not going anywhere near the wet :D I'll put the pics up at the close of play today

URGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH what a day. Did some stuff to it last week then changed my mind and spent all day ripping panels off that I glued down 3 months ago. Still should hopefully be a bit more user friendly and shiny when Its all back together again. Pics to follow if I can be arsed.

Thats cos the head bolts are pretty much standard material - all they have to do it provide enough clamping force, which from a large bolt with a fine thread is relatively easy. The actual tensile strenght of the bolt itself isn't that important. The big end bolts on the other hand are subjected to enormous forces and have to deccelerate a few hundred grams of piston and rod at the top of the exhaust stroke which requires a very high tensile bolts. Hence the price. You think £90 for a set of 12 is bad, the list price for 8 ARP bolts for the cossie is over £100

They need to be ford PCD, 4 stud. They also need to be 7x16 - 1.5 inch inset front for 205/45 x16 tyres 8.5 x 16 zero offset rear for 245/45x16 tyres OR 7.5x17 1.5 inch inset front for 205/40x17 tyres 9x17 zero offset rear for 245/40x17 tyres. Help me please, I need wheels and can't afford image splitties or compomotive 3 piece wheels.

Not sure if they do kits but Highbury hoses are the cheapest with great customer service apparently

My block, oil breather, sump, 80% of brakets etc are painted in hammerite. It'll be fine.

Are you saying you can get a large item of furniture in your vulva kev ;)

RS6

Depends how the Air/Fuel ratio is decided by the engine. If it has a mass flow sensor it should in theory not need a re-map as the fuel delivered is dependant on the amount of air entering. If its a map based system then it will need a remap as the amount of air flowing for a given boost (determined by the charger) will increase with headwork and cams. When you upgrade the charger you'll run more boost and it will definately need a re-map.

I think putting a mad peripheral port rotary and rwd conversion in a C would be great, Discuss 8)