Kevin Bacon

Yeah that's what you get from Boge dampers unfortunately. Forget comfy, it's not going to happen on a Corrado. It's all about finding a happy medium. Is your VR6 still on the original 15s? If so, the B12 kit should be the best compromise. Bilstein dampers are pretty firm as a rule, but the more you live with them, the more come to realise just how consistent the damping performance is, come winter, summer, rain or shine. You won't get anything better for that kind of money. I would also replace any worn / tired bushes in the chassis, in particular replacing the wishbone bushes with R32 ones.

Odd thing is with the exchange ones is they fit a new housing as well as a new sensor, so why they call it exchange I don't know! Outright is about £300 for mine, so it's a mental saving!

Hmmmm, I wouldn't be too surprised if an ebay or GSF / ECP one makes no diference. I remember trying 2 from GSF once. 1st one was DOA, engine wouldn't even run. 2nd one gave no improvement. A known good, but used, original one was perfect. I got a VW exchange one for my R32 yesterday (from Neil) and that was £106 inc VAT, which is also the all plastic flavour. I wonder how much one for yours would be? The metal ones are astronomical, about £400, and dealer only and outright only!!

General rule of thumb is if it drives better with it disconnected, the MAF is definitely shot! Can't hurt to try another one anyway as it's not always as clear cut as that.

Yep and few of us have used those (or the floor mounted pedal) for R32 conversions. Use the exact pedal that the donor car uses to avoid electrical mismatching problems.

Nah just stick them in mate. Save your money! I wouldn't worry about valve float. At the engine speeds it happens at, everything is moving so fast anyway it makes no odds. I don't think 7500rpm will gain you much. I would go for 7200rpm but see what's happening on the dyno. If it's making power up there, leave it to Vince to decide on where to put the limiter.

Your has the the plastic MAF IIRC Jim, which is a lot cheaper than the older metal one! MAF issues usually manifest themselves as flat spots, cutting out pulling up to junctions and surging when cruising at 2000ish rpm.

Personally I wouldn't bother with uprated springs. All they do is increase the valve train load. If you were going for 8000rpm, then I might, but up to 7500, I wouldn't bother. That's the limit of the hydraulic followers anyway. Bartek are a great company. I bought my Schrick cams from them (for my R32). It's Schrick who insist on new followers if you buy their cams, otherwise they won't give you a warranty, but as your 268s are s/hand (?), again, I wouldn't bother. Schrick unfortunately are a schitt company to deal with. My R32's intake cam is defective and Schrick are taking weeks and weeks over it. I sent it back to Bartek and he's dealing with Schrick for me, but they are absolutel w@nkers basically. Decent products, but schitty attitude to retail customers and a shonky work ethic. So to summarise:- Schrick 268s - Good cams for top end, bottom end suffers, hot idle suffers. Uprated springs = No New followers = No (unless the cams are brand new) Anything else = N0 Just shove em in and get it up to Uncle Vince for mapping = Yes

My clutch debacle was about 7 or 8 years ago but it seems things have improved recently then, cool! I forgot to mention I replaced the flywheel as well to get absolutely perfect mating surfaces, but that was only £70 exchange from VW. The juddering was never horrendous by the way. Just at low rpms pulling away which made traffic a real chore.

Agree with Goldfinger. Vince also told me recently that the Valeos seem best at the moment. I went through 3 clutches back in the day, trying to sort juddering problems. Tried a GSF supplied Sachs, then a GSF supplied LUK and finally a dealer one. During the many months that this went on, Vince again noticed manufacturing defects in the pattern parts. Needless to say the dealer one was the best of the 3, but they ALL juddered after a month or so. A few years ago there was a batch of release bearings that had no grease in them at all! I don't know what it is with VWs. As soon as you replace the original clutch, it bloody judders or makes a noise!

If it were me I'd snap this up because they will only go up in value, with or without the plaque. It wouldn't take much to get a piece of alloy machined with that writing in it at a local CNC workshop. Seems like that is actually quite a good investment opportunity seeing as quite a few VSRs seem to be missing that.

It was originally called the Corrodo in honour of Frodo Baggins, who designed the cramped interior especially for Hobbits.

I bet these big turbo Subarus are laggy :D Well, apparently 'lag' is outmoded now. People prefer to call it 'boost response' or 'onset of boost' now. It's still bloody lag how ever much you play with words :D I do like the blob eye one but that silly spoiler and gold wheels make it a marmite car. With my E30s and E34s, I found them to be a typical crazy German blend of over-engineered unimportant stuff and silly under-engineering of important things like wipers, headlights, and erm, brakes! Great cars overall though. Very rigid body shells and cabin quality is extremely high. I'm not necessarily talking about the 'perceived quality' that separates an Audi from a VW (I.e. softer plastics and thicker carpet), I mean the build quality. It's made to last. Well, certainly the E34. I still maintain that is the best built BMW to date.

Heat! Warm it up to soften the seals and it'll just pop out.

Nope, the new 3 layered gasket does away with that O ring, or if you stick with the older style gasket, it'll come with a new one or will be part of the gasket itself.

That's a good point about the tappets Zak. I wonder how many people skip the Inspection 2s + adjustment!? Sean, I think we're all fans of German performance cars mainly and the Corrado happens to be one of them :) I don't think there's ever been any strong Corrado rose tintedness on here! There seems to be a good balance of experience and level headedness on here! How does the 130i drive? When ever I follow one, the rear suspension seems rock hard. It looks like there is very little give in it over bumps. I like the suppleness of the E39 M5. Modern BMWs seem to be all about very hard suspension like a lot of other cars, which doesn 't work in pot holed Britain (imo). I think if I had to choose a performance BMW now, it would be a 1M or a current M5 with the V8 biturbo, yep, they'd do :) Love the styling of the 1M!

They're too highly strung for me personally and don't make the claimed power. I also don't like the lack of torque below 4000rpm. Sublime chassis though, but shyte brakes and you need to get the boot floor reinforced.

That money also gets you into a 335d, which I'd take over the petrol personally. Mainly because it's more reliable. Too many horror stories about fragile turbos in the petrol. Only snag with the 335d is it's a slush box auto only (a good one though) and you're limited to 'only' ~ 520lb torque because of it :D

Which Evo though? There's loads of the bloody things. If my mate's old IX FQ 360 is anything to go by, 3 things I would do to it - 1) Lose the stupid chav HKS exhaust, 2) soften the stupid rock hard chav suspension and 3) lose the stupid chav rear deck spoiler. Then you might have a car that passes as a decent daily. Cossies? Ha! No standard one can beat an Evo. My VR6 when standard used to keep up with a work colleague's sapphire Cosworth easily!

The location says it all.

I just wanted it to be fuelled exactly the same as the donor car, which was an A3. It also reduced the fuel and vacuum plumbing in the engine bay and the filters are good for 40K, so I saw it as quick wins all round! Plus the BDB ECU is mapped for a constant 4 bar pressure too, but that's probably quite a minor thing in the long run.

I'm sure I had one spare after converting to a MK5 filter and return-less rail. I'll try and find it. If not, it was £105ish +VAT from the dealer when I bought it. None on ebay back then either.

Is Lidl part of Porsche then? :D

Good stuff! It was just the MAF in the end? That would normally be mentioned in VCDS if the ECU isn't happy with it, but glad it's better now! I didn't like the washer bottle being in the boot when I did mine. It took too long for water to hit the screen and it came out as a couple of dribbles, but so long as you're aware of that, you can drive around it.

Can you 3D print with different colour plastics on the same item? i.e. black plastic with red or chrome topping?