Kevin Bacon

Common problem. Make sure you clear all the wires out of the way before easing the head unit in. And I stress 'ease' it in because I've rammed it in before and the head unit heatsink duly severed some dash wires :? If there is a metal support bracket attached to the back of the dash, remove it, it will give you more clearance for the head unit. Another tip....solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing if you haven't got an ISO connector for your stereo. Crimped connections are cr@p. Kev

I like my toast :lol: That bloody thing costs more than the headlights! I love gadgets....did you spot the Porsche kettle too? Boils a litre from 0 to 100 in 4.5 seconds :wink: Kev

Easy to fit too. Maplin sell mini flourescent tubes for a tenner each. Hook em up to the interior light circuit and you can see where you're putting your muddy feet! Kev

OK mate, best of luck to you. Looking on the bright side, it's a chance to remove the dash, tidy up all the wiring, sort rattles (if yours does) etc etc... And you'll learn an awful lot in the process :lol: A tip for when you refill the coolant, fill via the radiator top hose and not via the expansion tank, otherwise you'll get an irratating air lock. Kev

When it's idling at 2500rpm, tap the idle valve with a hammer and see what happens then. If it drops to 1100 straight away, try cleaning the valve out with some carb cleaner and then a little WD40 to keep the valve lubricated. A KR should idle at 1100 when cold and then 950 when hot. Your base CO might be out too. KRs run best at 2.0% CO. Kev

Monster mileage! Is that on the original head and chain tensioners do you know? Kev

Some corrados have speed sensitive volume control and if you hook up the aerial or power amp remote switch on lead to this wire, it causes problems. Kev

The MK3 Golf uses the 'tall block' engine (10mm taller than 1800) whereas the Corrado, Passat and Audi use the short block, same height as 1800. The tall block is noticably coarser than the short block and more torque low down. You won't have this engine in the Corrado. How many miles has the engine done? The 2.0 can do 100K+ before the valves need doing. Might just be an air leak causing the rough running. Kev

You're right actually guys, the one on the left is definitley clearer! Hmmm.... must have had a new glass panel at some point......and yet another thing I noticed was the chromium plating on the right one has worn off due to the heat of the bulb :? Just aswell Mike Edwards pointed out new units are now £90 instead of the older price of £140! Kev

He he, Darren is correct! I detailed the reflector partitions with black enamel. It's subtle but I like the 'seperated' look of the two reflectors. Should look quite nice on the car, hopefully! One thing I did notice when doing it is how much crud builds up on the reflectors, almost as if someone has been blowing fag smoke on them for 10 years. Another reason why C lights can be quite dim! I was going to fudge in some flourescent tubes but they wouldn't fit! Kev

Can anyone spot what's different about these lights? Hopefully you will otherwise the effort will have been wasted!! Just had to try it out of curiousity I've also ordered some Osram SilverStar bulbs from http://www.powerbulbs.com (H1 and H4) for £39 inc Vat and P&P to compliment my uprated loom. Kev

If it's the same as the VR6 one, then it's a 30 min job. Remove boot carpet Remove black cover plate Remove large white lock ring Disconnect hoses and wiring Reach in the tank, grab the pump, twist and pull Fit new pump Off you go Kev

A dyno run is a good way of checking if Supercharged's car is anything to go by! His recorded 170bhp and 167lbft on the original charger, at 83K! I would imagine at 135K yours is probably in need attention though. They are more robust than people give them credit for. VW ran them at 10,000 rpm for 100 hours straight during testing and they survived! Kev

Arse. I'm sorry but VW are damn well liable for this as it's dangerous..grrrr What if your eyes and legs had been scalded? VW would then have a lawsuit on their hands and that's why the MK2 Golfs were recalled quick sharp. The other annoying thing is some dealers do it no questions asked and some tell you to bog off. What about continuity between dealer networks or can franchises opt out of company (VW) policies? It's a 5 hour job mate so I hope you can bear doing it in this weather :? I would kick up a stink and take it as far as possible first before digging into your pocket and time. Kev

something like $200 for the lead and the "license" from an american company called Rosstech and of course you need a laptop to run it.......basically it lets you "speak" to the diagnostic port of most C's...so that you can check(and clear) any fault codes that have been thrown up.....pretty handy fo the VR as there are a lot of wee engine sensors that can cause problems for you if they are kaput......the VW-dealer of course have the "proper" machine for doing this but by all accounts the Rosstech software and leads are well worth getting...especially if you have already got a laptop It's worth noting that if you haven't got a laptop but have got a drive, you can do as I do and use a long serial cable. I basically just hook up, start the car, lock it with the spare keys and sit back and scan from the comfort of my armchair! Also, the cable and software can be aquired from http://www.vag-com.co.uk but interestingly enough, Rosstech in America get the kit to you faster :?: If you do order from the states, get them to label the box as 'Books' or 'Returns' and you'll avoid import duty, but most US companies are sympathetic to our plight and record the value as £10 (no IT on goods under £15) for us. Kev

Maybe it's tuned. Too short and the ECU will over react, too long and it will not react fast enough? Just a thought..... Kev

Stereo - Fuse no 22 (10 amp - Red) S/roof & Rear wiper motor - Fuse no 4 (15 amp - Blue) Failing that, if you remove the drivers side dash tray, there is a big bunch of earths to the right of the fuse box, check here to make sure none have fallen off etc. Failing that, erm, you either have earthing issues at the motor ends or a break in the wiring somewhere :? I find a strong cup of coffee and a good multimeter help in these situations. Kev

and IMHO probably the best colour ever for the Corrado 8) :wink: Kind words Rodders....I know you have a soft spot for Icey Grey :wink: The colour certainly seems to win admiring comments where ever it goes. A couple of the lads were bemused by it at the Stealth Dyno day! It was the first Corrado I looked at and fell in the love with the colour straight away. Only after buying it and logging on to this forum did I realise the rarity of it :lol: Kev

Both cables attach to the throttle in the same way and both are a similar length, so I don't see why not. Try it! Kev

I find Olive oil works wonders in the VR engine, gives off a nice odour when burnt too Bullcrud it's common for a VR to leak oil. Mine doesn't leak a single drop. It's just a cop out answer because they can't be bothered to diagnose the fault. Kev

Nope. I used a chrome plumbing pipe on my 16V for aesthetic reasons several years ago and it made absolutely no difference to engine running. Kev

Or warped brake discs..... At last, someone else on the forum with an Ice Grey Violet (K4U) VR6 :lol: Kev

I notice the Integra Type R cropped up in the thread, which is interesting because most car and chassis experts/scientists have concluded that the ideal weight distribution for a FWD car is 65/35, (not 50/50 as per RWD cars) and guess which two best handling FWD cars of all time have that exact weight balance? The Corrado VR6 and Integra Type R :lol: Kev

Yeah it's the rear one that makes the most difference. One reason for this is because the factory one is pathetic. To all intent and purposes it's just a broom handle welded inside the torsion beam. The rear bar is supplementary to this. The factory front bar is a proper bar but a bit on the thin side, it does a reasonable job though, which is why I've just gone for the Neuspeed rear for the time being. I'll add a front as and when required, track days etc. Even with just a rear bar you'll get instant and sharper turn-in and an almost complete abscence of body roll. You just have to watch the tail in the wet though as the tyres don't lean over as much and bite into the tarmac as tenaciously. So long as you're sensible, bigger ARBs pose no threats. Kev

I bet VW Motorsport have still got a pile of them in a box labeled "Only for distribution when all existing G Laders are broken, and then charge double for them" :!: Kev