Kevin Bacon

How long before MK5 independant rear suspension finds it's way onto Corrados? Kev

Sigmas are my all time favourite wheel or they were at least until I saw a VR6 wearing 17" Audi TT competition wheels at Stealth on Thursday :lol: The guy was having H&R springs plus Eibach ARBs fitted to it and took me out for a spin afterwards. I was impressed by the ride with 17s, no worse than my 15s. Therefore I have changed my mind about big wheels on the Corrado, they can work. Interestingly, his 17s weighed the same as my Speedlines! We both had our subframes seam welded too which Vince used to do to the Vento VR6 cup racers. Makes things a lot stiffer down below. I'm considering having the whole car seam welded next year sometime. Kev

I wouldn't use braided hoses, they act like sand paper, grinding down anything they're clipped to. Stick to the regular rubber hoses, the extra cost of the stainless braiding isn't worth it. When sliding the hoses over the unions, heat the rubber hose first, makes life a LOT easier and do not use jubilee clips to secure, they'll cut the rubber. Once the hose is on the barbed unions, it won't come off again, so make sure you get the lengths right! Kev

I take it your vote is with Hayward then? Well I'd certainly short list them. I've seen some of their work and it is really good. Whether their products are worth the extra cash over competitors or not is something only you can decide. Kev

Yep I'd have to agree with you there, that is a mod and a half! A very expensive one too I should imagine. Kev

Quality costs. You get what you pay for. Kev

Indeed and if you plan on fitting H&R springs then you will also need the later spring cups as H&R only do VR6 springs for that fitment. Kev

Have a look at examples of their work at http://www.haywardandscott.co.uk They have an excellent reputation and I know of a Scooby owner that found 30bhp from one of their full systems. Kev

Maybe there were complaints of chin spoiler fouling in the early years of the car's production? Getting it onto MOT ramps, hitting kerb stones etc etc Kev

Maybe the battery took a pounding through running the fan for 2 days and perhaps also needs replacing? Kev

I think they're Stil Auto Sigmas Roddy?

Okey dokey, in the attached pic you can see where I've located the mocal cooler, behind the grille. Some folk suggested down in the passenger inner arch where the G60 intercooler lives but I felt the cooler would do a better job in front of the radiator. Sourcing - Vince sourced the parts for me from http://www.thinkauto.com You need a 13 row by 245mm one and a fitting kit. The latter consists of a length of hose, 4 unions and a car specific sandwich plate/thermostat. Fitting - If you use my method, the bumper & slam panel assembly both need to come off (easier than it sounds) so that you can properly measure up and attach the cooler to the slam panel. You need to then source some suitable metal to bend into brackets. I used those long metal shelving strips with holes in you can get from B&Q. Sounds bodgy but the cooler has been there since March and hasn't moved a single milimetre. And that is important as space between the cooler and radiator is tight. Once you're happy with the brackets, use some 6mm bolts and nuts to secure them to the slam panel and then to the cooler. Fitting the sandwich plate is easy and best done with the radiator tilted forward out of the way, or better still, removed completely. A good time to check the rad for blockages and replace the thermostat - as preventative maintanence. If anyone is serious about fitting one, I am prepared to pay you a visit and help you fit it as it's a good mod and worth doing. Kev

The user manual confirms that the windows close one after the other and that only the driver's side is one-touch in both directions. Just so you know! Kev

What year did Cs have immobilisers fitted as standard, or was it an option? Cheers Kev

Anyone know what it is/does? Ta Kev

Careful you don't get done for copyright infringement :lol:

You shouldn't need the triangle anyway because Corrados are so *cough* reliable! I suppose you could do the good samaritan thing though and lend it to broken down Ford Onion drivers? Mind you, letting a HGV smash it to smithereens is probably the best thing for it. As for the first aid kit, you could replace it with an oxygen mask for recusitating overwhelmed passengers. Or in my case, to help them calm down after my terrible driving :lol: Kev

My VR6 is slightly damp with oil around there too. The usual suspect is the half moon rubber seal on the rocker cover. Kev

Bruno, I'll see if my VR6 set comes with a tool (they arrive tomorrow) because the 16V Blue igniter set comes with 4 x lead removing tools, so you never know! I wouldn't normally endorse this but when the engine is hot, if you pull gently on the wires, they come out OK. Don't try that when the engine is cold though otherwise the wire will just pull out of the plug :? Then you can push the leads back on with a long screwdriver, pressing on the metal bit. I think the OE plastic remover is only a few quid though? Kev

And if you did 'force' them to fit, I can guarantee the resultant wheel imbalance will be unpleasant at speed. Kev

Millers CVL (competition valve lubricant) is good stuff. I used to use it on the Evo car magazine meets in my 16V Turbo. It takes Optimax up to 101 ocatane aswell as lubing the valves and upper cylinders. Kev

You can test the leads with a multimeter. Each should read 6Kohms but as I've found out, this doesn't always prove the lead is OK when the engine gets hot. The best leads use double layers of good quality silicon with multistrand tinned copper wire inside. The original VW ones are pretty good but fail eventually. I recommend Blue Igniters from C&R Enterprises. They come with a lifetime warranty, which proves the company's confidence in their product. They're also guaranteed at temps up to 300 degrees C. I've had a couple of sets of them over they years and nothing comes close to the quality at that price. Expensive leads won't help if they're not being fed a decent current from the coil. You've already mentioned you get a firework display when you spray the coil pack (see picture in thread entitled "Running on 5") so it can only be that. Also note Bruno's comments about Beru coilpacks. Kev

Indeed, leaded petrol is no longer allowed to be sold or produced legally, so Shell will be in a lot of trouble if they are selling it! Avoid LRP as it's apparently quite harmful due to the high potassium content. All VWs have used hardened valve seats since the early 80s, so they don't need lead at all. Just stick to Optimax as that contains upper cylinder lubricants, which is all the lead was for originally anyway. Kev

I know it's an old cliche but step no 1 is to hook the engine up to the diagnostics and then go from there but I have heard that if the Engine speed sensor goes, the engine won't start or will start and run very badly. I hope it isn't that as it costs £140. Kev

I can't say I notice any difference using Optimax but that's probably because the engine hasn't been 100% recently! Kev