.A.N.T.

Got the same issue... Looking into a fix at the moment for it. Mine will go into dipped beam ok but after going to full beam and back down it'll cut out back to sidelights until I switch off and back on. A little scary!! If/when I find out what's happening I'll post back.

Thanks for the reply... There's no smell of petrol around the engine though... Put some redex cleaner in there and it doesn't seem quite so bad now (kiss of death) so I'll see how it goes... Cheers, Ant.

Morning all. My 16v is starting to play up a little. Not seen this before and can't find anything on the seach with the same symptoms. Driving along normally, can be any revs from 2000 upwards, and the car feels as though the brake has been tapped. It's as though it engine is stopping just for a fraction of a second and then firing again. Has been doing it quite infrequently for a couple of days now, but is getting more regular now. Yesterday I noticed that the rev counter was now bouncing up an extra 500-1000 revs with each 'cutout' of the engine. This makes me think it could be something electrical. Have checked all leads are tightly screwed down, the earth is solid and I can't find anything loose. Any thoughts on what it could be? Thanks, Ant.

Hi, had the fuel pressure checked while I had my valver in the garage yesterday and the mechanic said it read over 10 bar (his gauge only went up to 10, and it was off the scale). It should only be around 6 once fully warmed up, so where is the extra pressure coming from? Is the standard pump enough to generate that kind of pressure? It sounds like there's a blockage somewhere which is stopping the petrol from returning to the tank, but where..? Any thoughts appreciated! Ant.

Thanks! As mine is only running 1ish V when cold I'll investigate what is going on...

Many thanks, I'll cap it off then...

On this pic I found on the web, what should be connected to the bit I've circled? It's not the S pipe as that connects on the other side of the WUR. On my engine it's currently open to the atmosphere... I found a spare WUR in my shed over the weekend so have swapped it out as the internals of the one on the car were really mucky. The new one is a lot cleaner. Would a non functioning WUR cause overfuelling? Reading up on WUR's it seems if the pressure was too low then it could cause overfuelling...

Excellent link, thanks. Didn't realise all the senders on the side of the head were the same... I'll test they're all working then tonight... Thanks!

I'll look for that... There's certainly an S shaped pipe there, but I'm not sure exactly where it connects to... Correct. Was a KR, now has a 9a bottom on it, and I'm unsure whether the head is a 9a or KR tbh. Although, the stud for the cam belt tensioner is an M10 bolt, so sounds like KR... Anyone have any thoughts on what voltage should be going to the ISV? Cheers.

Got my new engine in last weekend after 9 weeks off the road (9A from a KR), and the weekend just gone I managed to get it started. :D But the only way I could get it to start was to unplug the blue lead shown in the photo… What is it, and why would unplugging it allow it to start? I think with it in there the engine is flooding, as when checking the petrol spray pattern I had injector 4 out, and the car started, whereas previous to this it was having none of it. Put the injector back, and the car wouldn’t fire. Unplug the blue lead and it starts. Plug the blue lead in when running and it stalls… Also, in the second pic (I think it’s the warm up regulator) there’s a metal vacuum opening there, which is sucking in air. Should this be connected to anything? At present there is a slight vacuum leak coming from it… AFAIK nothing has ever been connected to it, but I take it there shouldn’t be air entering the system there. Why is the hole there? Lastly, for some reason the ISV isn’t buzzing. When the old engine came out it was fine, but now there’s nothing. What should be the voltage going to it, or over the pins. Currently there is virtually no voltage across the pins, though when the ignition is turned on it flicks up to 0.3v then back down to 0.08v (same as putting one end of the meter on me and the other on the car!) Car, despite the things above, is running really nicely. But I’d rather have all the leads in there attached to something and everything working as it should be!! Cheers all, Ant.

IMO this should be available for free from VW. Would save their technicians hours on the phone as you try to describe the exact bolt you want and where it goes. If you could look it all up then e-mail them the part numbers and descriptions it would save everyone a lot of time... (just spent 10 minutes on the phone only to be told to come down and point at the screen!!)

Oops. :mad2: Poxy easy out has rounded off whilst in the engine and the socket now wont grip it to go in or out... world of trouble, here I am... I'm guessing that to try and get it out now it's an entire head out job. Once it's done though, I'll then have to find the reason it's snapped. The plugs arent that old, so there's something up with it, maybe cylinder 1 is running too hot? Its been drinking petrol for the last month or two and running very rich, so there's def something up with it. I have the use of my mums car for the next couple of months as she's away travelling, so there's not a massive urgency. MIght just break it. I'd get more doing that then I would selling it, even with a working engine... Decisions, decisions, decisions...

I'll look into getting an extractor down there. Nothing really to lose in trying... If I can't get it out, then we'll go from there...

I thought as much... So, the question is, new car or not... I've been thinking about replacing it for a couple of years now, maybe this is the catalyst..?

Any thoughts on this? Car has been running pretty rich recently, so just pulled the plugs out to check the colour of them. 2, 3, 4 cylinder were all fine, but no 1 was really really stiff to get out. Eventually it came out, well some of it came out. Check out the photo and you can see that half the plug is now left in the engine... Any thoughts on how to get it out? This is getting near the last straw with the car now. It's been scratched down the side, has over 210,000 miles on the clock, is on it's second engine already and so has no resale value. Do I just take this as the end and break it for parts, or do I strip the engine down, see what damage has been done and rebuild it for another years motoring? I'm after a new car anyway, is this the death knell for mine?! But first, any thoughts on how to get the rest of the plug out?

Hi all, on the MFA the oil temp shows --- instead of a number. Where is the sensor that controls it? I'd like to replace it so I can keep an eye on engine temps. Also, is this used in any way for the ECU so with it dead would it cause any issues? (like overfuelling?) Cheers, Ant.

Hi all, have a sensor next to the oil filler cap which has a really wobbly connection to it. Is above the alternator, on the end of the block very near the oil fller cap. Has a single brown lead going to it. What is it?? Cheers, Ant.

Just cos a car is up for a certain price doesn't mean it'll sell for it... A few months ago the car prices were very low. They're now starting to increase again, possibly due to the cash for clunkers scheme meaning there's less 2nd hand cars out there over a certain age? Not sure on this as don't know what the take up was on that offer... Either way if he's priced it too high then people simply won't pay him...

Have a look at Oichan.org for details on how to flip the LCD It's not too hard to do, but if you need a second set of clocks as a backup (as I did) then I may have some for sale.

About 2 minutes!! :) Drop me a PM and we can make sure the two sets are the same...

I've got a set of 1.8 16v clocks at home that I bought when I was messing about with mine as a backup in case I ruined my set. Had swapped the LCD's over so they're green on black background instead of black on green. Though I replaced all the green filters with red acetate so now all the dash is red and sexxxxxxy.... :) No idea at all what mileage the clocks have though, but it's 'average' so not massively high, nor low... Could sell them to you if you're interested. Can't guaruntee what the mileage is as I'll need to take my clocks out to power it up but they do all def work... Actually. If you do want them I may well drop them in to make sure they work as there's no point sending you them if they're kaput! Cheers, Ant.

Does anyone have a link to somewhere that tells you how to correctly set up your 16v engine. Found this - http://members.dslextreme.com/users/vwtuning/vwtuning1.html but it's not for our engines. I've used the search, and checked out the wiki guide, but that was more a 'buy this, add this, etc' and not an actual - this sensor should be set to this amount and the fuel mixture should be here etc etc. I know the 16v's are mechanical, but there must be a certain level of tuning you can do at home to get them running sweetly. Or am I well out of leftfield here and it's not possible to fine tune a 16v. (mine's a 9a btw) Cheers!

Following on from this with a really dumb question. But with a warm engine, and the strobe in no1 cylinder. Where should the lines be? Should they line up exactly or should there be a slight rotation back anticlockwise? Changed the dizzy a few weeks ago and it doesn't seem right at the moment... Lacking power...

That's the answer I was after (cut it off) Can't be ar5ed with the hassle of removing all the CV joint etc etc....

Could anyone shed some light on what this is, and what it is supposed to do? Located on the drivers side prop shaft. Seems to have come loose from the bit it normally sits in and is now causing a knocking noise... Any thoughts??