bighairymuppet

and again. :mad: :cry: def not too tight. theres no play in the pulleys or the engine mounts so it has to be rubbing againsts something as i got a burning smell just before it went argh!!!! either that or halfrauds belts are sh*te (unable to get one from anywhere else at the mo coz its the only shop open when i can go get one :-() any ideas people i get the feeling its rubbbing against the end engine cover at times. and thats causing it

still no idea starts better but not perfect still hvaent got timing set yet tho soz.

pretty much what i thought id have to do oh bugger. ill have a go at the weekend does the alt brack hold anything else? and is it easy enough to get off? thanks in advance... still havent found a bolt :roll:

my bolt on the left hand side of my alternator snapped the head off today whilst i was adjusting my belt. it seems secure enough just now with just the right hand side trightened and the top bolt but obviously id like to replace it. any help? how do i get the old bolt out? what size is the bolt and where can i get one from? anyone got one spare? would it be safe enough to drive until i obtain one it seems secure enough? thanks

ive cleaned the pulleys and made sure theres no rough edges. theres no play in the pulleys and ive adjusted the belt ill update this post if it snaps or in a month to see if this has stopped the prob.

oh and btw those plastic get you home belt are f-ing crap :mad: you can't get them connected and when you do they snap open easy. i think ill try the good old fashioned one and keep a pair of strong winter tights in my car (ooer don't tell the missus lol :oops: ).

alternator/waterpump belt, keeps breaking on my corrado 1.8 16v plz help :shock: :roll: :cry: :cry: any ideas. anyone had this? It will run for ages (last time was over 3- 4 weeks and then all of a sudden it will break. This is my second new belt. overtightening? dodgy pulley/ sharp edge on pulley ? sh*t belt? (its from halfords couldnt get to anywhere else). rubbing against plastic cover that covers end of engine? any ideas to stop it happening again? im going to use a wire brush on my pulleys and give them a sand incase its a rough edge. also how tight should it be? :?: dont think its waterpump seizing as surely it would seize completely and stop turnig and it seems ok. :? thankyou in advance

will update once i know for defs if mines sorted or not

this is going to sound stupid but i found my idle speed was changing at times like stopping at traffic lights for example because the accelerater pedal wasn't coming all the way back up due to a sticky return. pulling it up with my toe put it back to normal idle. It seems ok now but im going to keep an eye on it.

be very careful as i spent longer getting the socket out of one of the bores than actually doing the rest of the job. I need a good snapon kit so that the sockets dont come off on their own. (tank tape on the socket and onto extension bar is the cheap option and stopped me loosing it again.). also some places sell once piece spark plug extractors not as good as a proper snapon kit but if you don't have the right socket it works. oh also make sure when putting the new spark plug in that its straight in the thread and dont overtighten. have fun.

Its taking so many times to try and start my car i can tell its trying to eat the starter motor. Hence me pre-empting this and getting a new one if poss just in case. pity its not that thats the prob though!!!!

no updates as yet been too busy with christmas an all. my car though will start eventually and then run fine. ill keep you updated when im on it again.

ign switch seems ok but no idea how to check. ignition amp , coil dizzy with hall and plugs all changed. once started runs fine may be using more fuel though as according to msf im getting 25mpg. im officially stuck but going to check timing anyway.

update: Changed ign amplifier and cleaned isv whilst i was at it. started on 3 turns first try then started first go thereafter. Tried same again after leaving to cool for an hour. started around 3 turns and then started first time thereafter. It seems to start on the "return" (ie when you let go of the key. I have another ecu is it worth trying this? timing?? also whats the grey dial on the side of the ecu adjust? any ideas? thanks for help.

mines just to tidy up the bonnet really and for when i rap my head off it whilst working on the b*st...ing thing lol

i quite fancy replacing mine but don't have the money for a kit what can you use and cut yourself? adn what adhesive would you use. thanks guys sorry bout hijacking thread :oops:

its the one on the left on that diagram. its a doddle to change and there are some good new ones on ebay mine cost around £50 posted. pity its not my hall sender though... im just keeping my old dizzy as a spare now. erratic spark could be : coil, hall , ign amp so be wise when checking as its took me this long to figure its the amp on mine (i think haven't changed it yet but everything else has been, see other thread).

There is one mounted on the bottom of the ecu that i have from a mk2 golf gti. yee hah! :) changing it tommorow gonna be a bitch though. anyone any ideas the best way to get the ecu and mounting plate out. Looks awkward! thanks guys

is it on the same mount at the ecu on the bottom? i have a nother ecu (i hope) assuming it fits its form a kr 1.8 16v gti golf. Part num 811 907 384b. anyone any ideas whether this will fit and if the amp is part of it? thanks guys.

i can vouch for the fact you don't get two weeks grace anymore so be careful. id get your tax on the existing mot the week before it runs out if i were you and you'll still get your full whack if you say you want it to start the following month. Also lights make sure the bracket at the top of your lights is not loose and causing it to rock slightly as that will cause the light to be low. if thats the case try using washers on the screw to push it down (pushing the beam up ) or if its a snapped bracket / that doesn't work a temporary fix is use fibreglass filller to fix it in place. good luck man.

keep us updated robbymac and ill do the same. any ideas guys????

exactly .... :( see other post. i just thought id share what id found as i thought it was going to be a lot more difficult and was thinking of distributer with splines that actually go into the engine and stuff. now if i can only find whats causing my starting issues....... argh its not the dizzy anyway.

ok dizzy changed no difference so not hall sensor :mad: :cry: :cry: so to recap have changed: full dizzy, coil, spark plugs , battery all ok. Earth has changed and checked. have also changed fuel pump a while back. symptoms: doesn't start properly takes a few extended go's( No action on rev dial at times). starter motor and engine turns, appears to be no spark fueling seems to be ok. Does not matter whether its cold or warm. Once started will restart immediately if stopped and started soon after. Once started does not hunt or stall behave abnormally at all. drives completeley fine with full power once started only thing ive noticed is that on my mfa the best mpg ive had is 24.5 - 26mpg recently???? argh!!! please help im really stuck and now i need my car more than ever due to work. btw permanent live where does that run form the coil? thanks.

was a lot easier than thought disconnected two plugs one from hall other from isv (i think). marked up position of bolts and where the casing was on the engine block and noted what way the rotor arm was facing. undid bolts carefully slipping it out. did reverse and hey bingo worked less than 15 min job. close thread

changed ps belt as no matter how much adjustment i did it wouldn't stay tight. watch out for v type shape wear on your belts as this make it slip and move in the pulley stopping it form gripping.. close thread