bighairymuppet

As for checking the rear brakes try putting the handbrake on with one wheel jacked up and try turning it by hand. If it turns up until the handbrake is really high then its likely to need a new cable or adjustment. If it keeps turning all the way up then your caliper is ceased off (it may be reworked but could be buggered you'll need to take them off to check them. If you put the handbrake off and try to turn it and you feel it grating and then leting go it may be a bit stiff. If however its grating a lot its locked on and the pads will be be worn. repeat for other side.

You could start by getting new pads and getting the brakes redone whilst they have the caliper off (ie reworked to free them off if they are at all sticky) . Also the brakes will get bled which will make a hell of a difference (id ask for the fluid to be completely replaced) as there may be air bubbles which can cause it to be spongy. Check your discs for grooves or pitts if they have any change them unless its only very very slight. oh btw putting new pads on fairly worn/warped or grooved discs is pointless as you'll just end up wearing your pads unevenly and quickly and end up with less braking yet again. Are the rears definetly new? check them a s well just in case. As for adjusting the handbrake it definetly makes a difference but you'll need to decide on whether the handbrake has any adjustment left. no idea why but it does make the pedal feel better. As for changing hoses changing to new set of rubber ones instead of braided wouldn't go amiss either as its cheaper, however this depends on the difference between them and braided as braided will last longer and work better in the long run. Basically check how badly corroded the hoses connectings ends are and how bad the rubber is and decide whether they need replaced or not , they mighth not need replacing. Getting the calipers reworked , handbrake adjusted and the pads changed should make a hell of a difference and not cost too much. however bear in mind what i said above about disks ,cables and hoses. Check them all and decide for yourself. Ive replaced both my front and rear disc +bearings and pads and handbrake cable etc.. and these are the prices i found (mostly from autosave, some ebay) rear discs £15 each rear bearings £11 (i think it was actually more like £8 in the end but can't remeber). Pads £15 ish full set front discs pair £25 standard vented, brake hose £13 each handbrake cable Cost me £30 for the labour for front and £30 for back was going to do it myself but dont have garage or jack i trust. Plus there always a bearing press which i aint got. I know this isn't all that cheap but for what i got done and the way i had to do it i dont feel burned.

black corrado , think it was a 16v, going past and through the tech park in dundee 3 times teasing me whilst i was working. reminding me i had to get the bus :( any of you guys?

all im gonna say is barstewARDS. MIND YOU I was working on mine and a bunch of wee female neds flung a handful of coppers at the back of mine. THAT SUCKED. :shock: didnt catch them though. :x Kinda glad it didn't take out a light but my paintwork was bad enough :cry: :x :evil:

question 1 fuel pump or two? on 1.8 16v been getting mixed answers and local part supplier autosave says they couldonly find one in the book any info would be appreciated. also anyonw changed therie fuel filetr by themselve on theri 16v as im wondering if theres anything different or any tips

how easy is the tank pump to change? whats it involve apart from losing any fuel in the tank :( where in the line is the filter is it in line with the secondary pump? an how much do they cost roughly? also anyone know where you can get these parts cheaply around these parts im in dundee. oh yeah and im skint but car now has full mot :oops: :roll: :cry: suppose i should be happy about that. anyway gtg cheers guys for info so far

do a search coz i rmemebr reading in the past fue weeks someone with same symptoms. sorry i can't remeber thread and don't have time to search myself the now.

Sorry i menat do the symptoms i descirb in the first post soiund like this may be the cause ie pump?? ... anyway im off to bed tired.. gonna try not worry about it too much till tommorow

does the symptoms sound right? Haven't had a chance to change filter yet, not sure when it was changed.

could someone please tell me the symptoms of a dying fuel pump? in particular a valver. I have no idea whats causing my car to behave like a kangaroo but here are the symptoms i have. Car runs fine in idle car runs fine for wee bit say 1- 2 miles.(sometimes more its random) car starts to hunt midway down acc pedal put foot to floor hunts a bit more then becomes normal then hunts again. No noise from engine same symptoms as too low a revs for gear gears go in fine + sometimes it will run fine for a bit then hunts for a bit then its as though it clears itself oil temp fairly high 92 mfa shows 12mpg!! dropped to single figs! at one point!!! wtf fuel gauge in cars stoped working. additional info wasn't starting too well before this. fuel pump has been buzzing for a while. EMM help? any other ideas?

anyone done it already? and have pics of custom plates?

second hand try this salvage service http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/ a lot of them give you warranty, some 30 days some 3 months. cms seem to pretty fair and have even made some good deals with me. :

check this dude may help i p[osted in it previously it gives you a way of checking the starter motor by hotwiring incase its n alarm or the ign switch :-) good luck man. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13354&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

i really hate car electrics but having owned a jaguar xjs a one point thats probably not suprising. At least corrado's electrics are slightly better. currents have probs with stereo two tweaters up front work , left rear speaker works none of the other three do and i know the speakers are ok as i have spare rears and have tried swapping the rear right one. tried every load balance on the stereo not a peep. lol oh well another "wee" job to do bet u ive snecked some cables or something anyways sympathies out to anyone elese with electrical trouble.

flat screwdriver, force barrel up with key on flattish surface or leg even, lotta effort trying to get c clip back on whilst hold the rest down as tight as possible and pushing on c clip with flat screwdriver, should get it in evvery time. takeas a lot of patience though. took 3 go's to make sure it was perfect. oh and bluecorradop if handles form scrappies and has no key just take off c clip and use a flat screwdriver to push the things in and nother falt one to yoink it out.

it pretty much self explanatory it can only fit that way really just pop the new one one push it back towards edge of door an try it.

lol how many people can post at the same time :lol: :oops:

Oh and also watch the screw i found the one on my new doorhandle to be slightly diffferent for soem reason so don't force it and if the holes too big try some soft alloy wire round the threads if youy don't have a suitable screw. good way of taking up give in old threads.

Yup just one screw . Changed mine recently. Just gently push handle forward then it should just clik out when you pull it out pivoting it on the front. Then just pop out theother end. Thats it really Might be worth amking sure the controller wire aint caught between the rods and the inner panel incase thats whats stopping it from feelinga s though its not going anywhere

Ahem 150,000 had head rebuld adn actual head has only 50,000 miles on it, go figure ...... trying to make it last as long as i can as i may do full teardown at some point or engine swap.

I know but was hoping if any water loss its not gasket and is somewhere else.... A guy can hope can't he. ( won't know till i keep a close eye on it once its back on the road anyway).

RadoAds, thanks dude , fingers , toes everything cross , hell if it was long enough id tie a not in that too... lol

not even a drop... ho hum better keep an eye out then i suppose. If any water loss hsows is it worth trying radweld?

it seems to be worse when startring but its still there after about 5mins idling . Put it this way i HOPE its condensation will have to wait till i can take it on a good run i supose. suppose i should watch water loss more closely, how much water loss if any is normal on these old valvers?

ahem.... emm will do but back brakes are currently a no no so not driving it for another week. noticed it slightly before this though hence question.