bighairymuppet

mind u think about it 3 point may be counted as being attached as the seat provides a pivot point. dunno on that.

dunno how accurate this is but it may worth checking out some rallycross sites. Please note they are all quotes so please check. "In the MOT test regulations it states that harnesses are acceptable as long as they are BS approved. This also applies to the SVA test." "Push button release are legal." "All other releases (twist etc) are illegal" **not sure of this** "MOT testers manual section 5.1 seatbelts vehicle - 1. Passenger vehicles and dual purpose vehicles with not more than 8 passenger seats, except 3 wheeled vehicles requirement - 3 point belts for each seat (see notes 2 & 3 page 4) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Note 2: '3 point belt' means a seat belt which i. restrains the upper and lower parts of the torso ii. includes a lap belt iii' is anchored at not less than three points, and iv. is designed for use by an adult. Note 3: An adult harness belt comprising a lap belt and shoulder straps bearing a British standard marking is an acceptable alternative to any of the seat belt types listed. " dunno but unless the laws changed a whole load of my rallycross mates kept them in there cars for mot (dunno who still had belts tho and how many friends at the mot station). I think the main things are 1: good proper mounting points 2: At least 3/4 points. 3:BS standard approved 4: can open with one hand (supposedly) 5. not frayed , and if secured to seats in any wya (harnesses arent normally) the seats must be secure but this is needed anyway. have a search an see

If its about the building , you may enjoy selling up and starting again and trying a different approach this time to get your enthuiasm back but tbh i think unless youve had your enjoyment outa the car id keep it. oh also remember prices appear to be rising for all corrados.

no bother... door handles are expensive though. :( if want original dont go to stealers do a search because i think theres somewhere else that supplys them a lot cheaper. but if you dont mind losing the central locking or have full closure try the passat mod or if you wait a few days ill tell you if the handles i got work and youll be able to pick them up fairly cheap bout £30 exc postage and not have to change linkages (hopefully fingers crossed).

big screw on inner edge of door above lock that keeps door shut. unscrew that carefully (incase old and worn) once out push hadnle forward gently and pivot out on the other side ... watch you dont scratch the paintwork. use the pic above to check it to change it you'll need to take you inner panle off to disconnect the central locking lead and reconnect it etc.. thats easy too . *** please note this is 16v version vr6 will be slightl;y different*** just pry off inner doorhandle cover (may be slightly diff in some models) unscrew take off. take off plastic bit from pull open bit by pushing gently to the right and popping off. take off wingmirror adjuster. unscrew screws all round edge of panel lift off and disconnect speakers and electrice windows and mirrors etc.. put to side. rest should be easy just remeber to line up the clips with the screws when putting the panel back on and put the bottom edge in first.

as for the screws thing been there done that got the tshirt lol! :lol: theres nothing worse than when the screw falls down in between the handbake and the casing argh!!!! :mad: now i have a "wand" with a pretty strong magnet in my toolkit thank **** for that or id be there for days when that happens. :oops: :)

well thats scary, ive had 300bhp with the 6L (dunno what torque) but feckin hell in vdub weighing in at the square root of feck all in comparison wow. fun! :D

cheers guys will check today (once i sober up a bit more dont go near car with hangover somethings bound to get broken)

high pitched but solid sort of crunching screech could be the gears in the starter slipping or it could have worn/broken teeth. "Before that the car started up and the rpms slowly dropped until the car stalled. " - this however suggests something else. If it was belt the noise would get worse with quick revs? im sorry but thats all i can think off. can you describe the noise more?

just to throw one out there if its only slight it can be bearings , check for play in the wheel. as this was a weird one found on my mates car. wasn't needing adjusted at all... weird one though

new discs +pads on the front should make a hell of a differnece as the majority of the braking is the front. hope all goes well. 8)

was in a old 1986 jag xjs , gunmetal grey cream leather , loved the car but couldn't really work on it myself and fancied something A: more manageable B: bit more bang for buck c: more of a twisty road drivers car. it didn't corner very well..... ahem... loved the torque though the car woul move even under light acceleration in neutral. would have done some mad things with it like performance modding and even a high rate nitrous kit but there was all the reasons above and the fact it cost £68 a tank at 12 -19mpg (on a good day) that was a bit much. even women liked it , oh well.... love the corrado though, its more fun to drive and you dont feel worried about costs or corners. just drive and enjoy. apart from recently...

mine was a daily driver till the mot was due. now she has a mot but needs some tlc fuel wise. once up and running back to daily driver. whats the point in wasting it?

gman any update? howd u get on?

Thanks a lot for that extra information this is helping me out no end. 1. will be changing fuel filter then lift pump (more than likely) , will check electrical connections too. 2. will doublecheck vacum hoses. 3.dunno much about electrics and earths though i should be able o see if they are corroded loose etc.. thanks again

i musta got mixed up then, maybe my mate had his points from something before or he was making up the banned bit , i did see the due in court for 100 ish in 70 zone bit thoughh. oops. lol

keep us updated wanna know how the 2.0 bottom eend goes if you do it. :)

loving this thread as again i was more into torque than bhp. I wouldn't mind more bhp but its more the pull between 0 and 80 that gets me going. I used to love the low down torque of my 6L v12 at low revs it was just sweet. I wouldn't mind sacraficeing some top end for some low down torque but ive only a 1.8 16v :(

very interesting , dont even have g60 myself but worth the read , noted for future reference.

my mate go caught about the same speed he got 4 points doubt theyd give you 6 most likely to be 3 or 4. Its a b*tch tho i got caught by two hiding bikes at 43 mph in what i thougfht was 40 but was only 30 if only id had the time time to arguue £60 fine 3 points arse.... one was for letting me off too. nothing beats the cops who chased me when i was driving a volvo 440 glt (fair enough chipped , sport suspension ,sport tyres etc.. but just a 440 glt* dont ask was done to it before i got it) i was just coming home from bouncing at 3:30am at a new place out in the sticks so it was country roads and being a country boy i can drive them really well. Got pulled over by cops once i hit the next town ( i never stop in the middle of nowhere) and they said " you qwere going pretty fast , we had to go at 75mph to catch you" :lol: :lol: lol The fastest id done was about 60 , bloody city drivers who trains the cops to drive these days , just coz i know how to take a corner well they got bit of egg on their face. oink!

I personally wouldn't drive it the water will drain away really quickly and you could warp it beyond skimming. ive had a head gasket go on me before , if youve got a good garage (who'll do you a deal on a job rather than just paying time) and can get a hold of a second hand low mileage head it may be worth doing it this way as mine worked out around 170 ish compared to 150 to get it skimmed and redone 9bear in mind i made a deal with the garage prob be around 200 -250 ) I think even a 16v audi head would do. otherwise get it skimmed but watch incase its been skimmed beforwe as theres only far you can do it and then its just a wast of time as itll weaken it and may cause more problems. as far as faults go this aint a real big problem although it can make you feel a bit panicky dont worry about it dude, just concentrate on the fix. also check your oil for scummy white foamy bits as this would suggest youve busted the "head" (dont know how to put it but cracks leaking allowing them to mix , argh wish i wasn't so bad at this, dumn at grammar etc.. :oops: ) if not just skim and get on with it. good luck mate :wink:

Update - car still having issues due to money constraints i havent been able to do anything but pootle around and try and figure out definetly what it is. now that i have money i havent time, argh!!! Iwanna drive (throws toys outa his pram) have found so far 1. starts fine if you prime the pump a few times (ie turn ign on , off 3 -4 times before trying to start it) 2. arch pump is definetly whining but suspect working. 3. still don't know why it doesn't do it all the time.

just whilst people are on the subject , both pumps are on smae relay? (on 1.8 16v) therefore if relay was fecked neither would work? just another question from me mr paranoid and mega skint

http://www.oichan.org/mods/door/door_h2.htm is the main page oh and i may try this at some point as ive still got my broken handle from winter. if works ill be telling the world and i may even be able to do some for other peoples handles. so keep your boken ones just in case it works. ill not be till october though.

You can fix them but tbh i think it would be too time consuming and i dont have access to a wrokshop to build the bit. (my have in future as gf does metalwork...) . Anyway you can reapir it but dunno if iuts worth it, ive seen some german person selling the striker on its own before but apart from that the only other puics have seen is on this site (down at the bottom, hes doing two repairs in thsi page). http://www.oichan.org/mods/door/door_h.htm