vwdubs

If it is the picture Henny is showing ya make sure you get an extra blocking plug as the flanges now have 3 sender points.

I have to say that guy must need slapping to wake up..

I have mentioned in a previous post about my dislike for the 17s Neil so I can only agree with you on that front.. I think it was Kev who stated 17's set-up well really have no noticeable difference. This is why Im going to get em set-up before I decide if they are going out the door.

Running OZ 205/40 R17's(well the tyres aint OZ :wink:) , Thanks for the imput so far... Its a roody nightmare deciding

I have worked the opposite way around Neverite, I have made sure (or at least tried to) that the car is in excellent shape before modding too much, you wouldnt want to spend money out on grills etc then find out ya need new brakes or something really important. Thats not to say that yours might be sweet as a nut and in that case get ya wallet out and offs ya go :) Enjoy the Raddo and modding (but not too much modding)

If you can give me until Monday I will be able to help you on this. My father lives around there and has done for 20 years, there aint alot about bodyshops and repairing he doesnt know.

Too be quite honest, when replacing engine mounts it really is best to do all 3 (yes I know its god damn costly), reason being, if one mount is slightly knackered its then going to reflect upon the new engine mount you put in thus causing it to deteriate quicker than it would normally.

Ok, I have £350 in my sky rocket and am looking at changing my shocks/springs, can anyone recommend the best kit I could buy for £350 for a G60 and based on experience please guys. Look forward to everyones input. Except Bal's as he could afford Koni adjustable and I just plain cant

Is this Corrado Silver and from Germany?

Well thats it, I finally have all 3 engine mounts for the G60 from Vibra-Tech - already fitted front mount and quite noticeable (expensive but give it 6 mths and ill tell you if its worth it), but soon my engine aint going to move too much. By the time ive finished with the Corrado ill be unable to drive it and using a walking stick. The cost for all 3 was about £90 more than OEM. p.s Will be at the next Southern meet but as its my 30th this weekend ill be hammered :)

£1450 for a 16V on Autotrader with full leather :)

Ok I have a new plan.... Im just going to buy another Raddo with leather and convert it then sell the car :)

That car is certainly not standard (well the wheels are not) and it does not show a trend over the past weeks as some have been going for 2.8k-9k. In general I would say they are on the up but not as much as this weeks trader shows

Im lost although it looks very interesting. The initial post stated "We know what you drive and who you are" but how old are you? How comes we are all stating what cars we used to drive Anyway im not going to throw a spanner in the works am I :mrgreen: 27 - VW Beetle 29 - VW Polo, VW Polo 29 - VW Raddo G60 30 in 1 weeks time, bring on the Jack Daniels Note: All of the above cars have blown up on their own accord with exception of the G60 where I have just managed to blow the supercharger to bits :)

How good at that kind of thing,, mmmmm errrrrrr absolutely no idea as yet and hopefully not. Was planning on using a friends g/f

Ok I have five options facing me possibly 6. 1.) Buy some damaged leather seats and repair.. Rough cost of initial outlay £400+£300 to repair 2.) Buy some leather seats that are mint for about 750-£1k 3.) Have my cloth seats trimmed in leather at a cost of £750 + vat This does mean I can choose the colour. Not sure if this includes cost of door cards etc etc 4.) Buy some VW Mark2 Leather Seats 5.) Buy some leather and some old **it seats take the covers off, measure up against the leather and off we go make them. This would probably costs me about £250 plus labour (my own) in my own time What ya all think to be the best option

Hey Bal, you must have considered the english dictionary with your sig... Now does the word wipers have a comma or not :onfire: ie delete one of the lupo blades before I come up to MK and show ya boy racers how to race.. P.s Slow down with the mods I am just about trying to keep up with you.....

Citroen Visa GTI now they were rapid

Not a bad deal, just sold my Gamecube and Mariokart to a m8 at work and it pays for the Lupo Wiper Blades and Wiring Loom. Much more useful than gathering dust :)

I would have to honestly answer I do not know, although the engine mounts are different I am not sure how the underneath of your car looks. With regards to going for the straight OEM, Personally I would not as you can get a much better deal via JMR who is producing the VR6 soon or Vibra-tech but JMR is half the price of Vibra and almost half the price of OEM. These mounts will provide you with a smooth ride, they are not made for racing neccessarily.

Just a quick question Mike, where do you take the old engine mount out from and where do you put it back in via your method? Because believe me, I do not know anywhere you can take it out, even with the airbox out of the way. John, Er mmmm er er, Im going to be honest, basically I do not have a good reason as to why I didnt except the fact that I am going to replace all of them and thought I would go for an all round VibraTech approach having found out they now do all 3 engine mounts although they do not advertise the fact.

Also just to add. as of 21/10/04 JMR = £70 OEM = 121 inc vat Vibra-Tech = £141 inc vat I went for Vibra-Tech but hear JMR's mounts are quality, I have also heard that any cheaper models are ****** SH***te and not to go anywhere near them, the rubbers perish quicker than your Mrs can say no to a *****

Oh shit I knew I forgot something that was messy :) I will add that one minor detail to the list :?

I think its a case now of establishing when this happens, is it always at a certain time?, ie After a certain amount of time driving, at a certain speed (rev speed) at a certain time of the day ie Morning and damp? I can not help you with the solution as I have had no experience of this but elimination may help solve your problem. H100VW's message was written at same time so you may want to ignore me :)

I have recently had to change my front engine mount so thought I would type up the quickest and easiest way I found. I will add bolt/spanner sizes needed at a later date when im not working. Am I working now mmm :lol: Before even looking at your car, Purchase an Oil filter at £8 squid from G&S Before starting remove front grill and slide the horn to one side, then unscrew the vent in the way and slide out of the way (I found this the best place to remove the old engine mount from and enter the new engine mount) everywhere esle is tricky. 1.) First of all Jack up the car and place jack stands either side.(I always tend to use a small block of wood under the jacking point to prevent damage) 2.) Now the fun part, removing your Oil Filter... If you have a spanner big enough all well and good, if not I tend to use a pair of MoleGrips and if seriously desperate a screwdriver.. ( I do not recommend using the Oil Filter ever again, remove it throw it) 3.) Unbolt both nuts/bolts on the underside of the engine mount, but do not remove them yet(if you have got the replacement which I hope you have before starting you know what it looks like :)) 4.) Then unbolt the top nut and remove the nut and remove the lower nuts/bolt. 5.) Place a small piece of wood on top of the jack and jack the engine up gradually until you can see it has cleared the thread pertruding from the top of the egine mount and slide the engine mount out (now take it out via the grill and enter the new mount via the grill. 6.) Place the new engine mount in the correct spot and screw the lower bolts in lightly, do not screw in very far or you will not have any movement. 7.) You may need someone to help you lower the jack carefully whilst you ensure the thread of the petruding bolt from the top of the engine mount enters the hole in the engine bracket. 8.) Tighten all bolts/nuts. 9.) Ok fill your new Oil Filter up with Oil (try not to fill to the top unless you want it as hair gel) and then screw it onto the car. 10.) Remove jack and jack stands and retrieve the old mount via the grill and replace grill and horn. As I have to replace my rear and gearbox mounts soon I will also type this up, no pics as I have no digi cam but perhaps someone can help me out there. If any of this is unclear or does not make sense (or god forbid you disagree :evil: )please do say and I will rewrite it accordingly.