vwdubs

Change one of the senders or both :)

Thanks alot for the quick update Jim/Brando

Does anyone know who can actually supply VibraTechnic engine mounts, a google search just didnt help. Im after a front engine mount for a G60 as a matter of urgency, im off to Frankfurt Thursday and then back Sunday and need to have the car ready during the week for a run to Wales. How much better are the VT engine mounts than standard OE? My engine really is jumping out of the engine bay so can only presume its actually snapped the front mount.

Can I get cheaper engine mounts for noticing your errors :| In seriousness can you pm me about prices for all 3 mounts, my engine is jumping out of the bonnet as we speak.

All I can see is a Fire Station, Like someone else mentioned the room is preferrable especially right behind my seat... Who arranged this office seating :evil:

Probably just thinking who is that tit with his ass scraping the ground :-P :shock: :mad:

Oh dear 16VG60, Humble pie may have to be eaten here...... "It's very kind of you to offer your assistance with regard to production of these mounts, but i allready have an engineer who does this job to my satifaction. Furthermore i have stock of these mounts" 16VG60 If you take a look at Storms initial request it was for some door pins and not an engine mount as per your product. Oh well thats life, all good fun :) Keep up ya good work

Ya cant afford a plate Bal, sort ya Alarm/ignition out 1st :)

Hello Hutchy, Thanks for the offer mate, I will get a second/third opinion on Sunday at CCGB and contact you early next week m8, if I was to go with 5mm/8mm spacers I would need to get the bolts and 2 pairs.

Many thanks for the update guys, Henny you coming to Southern Meet? Will be good to catch up with you guys....

As I thought, did the colours change ever so slightly in years as depicted by the above url Rodders? eg My Paint Code = LC50 1991/92 H G60, Pretty sure it is Midnight blue pearl effect and that the person before me had the door resprayed and by the looks of it hit the 1992 colour of LC5M rather than the colour of LC5O/LC5V

I have alreday looked at this and considered it as another Raddo to the collection, definately a good buy but cant see it staying at that price and expect it to hit 900 easily.

Ill have a quick look tonight Steve, if not ill bring my Jack to Longleat for you :roll: :wink: :mrgreen:

not even a mention of the other models :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

Ok guys, eversince I have had the car my front tyres rub slightly on the inner wing. My solution is to obviously get some spacers but I do not really want to push the wheels out too far. I have been reccomended Eibach spacers and at first 5mm, having thought about this I really think at leats 10mm is needed and can only find 8mm Eibachs at a price of about £60 a pair. Does anyone know of another quality spacer supplier for the Raddo and has experience with spacers to know what maximum kind of spacer size I can use on a 17" to not look to out of place and can advise where to get them at a reasonable price. I dont want to much do I :roll:

Anyone know how quick a speeding fine comes through?, Lets say I got radarred by a cop in a layby on the Dual Carriageway to Plymouth doing >120mph (This is all circumstantial and lets just say), In theory he wouldnt have had chance to pin me down as I could have slammed on the Anchors as I come over the brow of the hill in the middle Lane and lets just say I could have stopped just before a car also in the middle lane and stayed behind him hiding :), this is what one would hope and pray for, not to say you dont still brick ya pants for 3 weeks. Lets assume this could have happened 3 weeks ago this Monday coming

Well sorted my problem, I changed the whole coolant system, ie new Fan, new Fan Switch, New g12+ coolant, new temperature senders, New Water Pump, New Thermostat, new water cap. Its running at book temperature and its a dream now, I dont recommend doing all the above, but i thought fak it get stuck in so I did.

Henny, Any idea on costs involved in this, I am sure the old man has all the piping lieing about in his garage or knows of somewhere, the 16 row Mocal is that mega expensive and what car is it off?, and how long is involved in replacing it, would a day cover the job/two? Cheers in advance Henny, I will buy ya a drink if u r up at N'hampton in a couple of weeks

I would almost agree with you but not now after a quick business trip down the road, after driving 5 miles the car got up to 115 on the water and 126 on the oil and then stayed around that temperature give or take 2deg with the coolant light flashing its pretty eye at me. I can see what you are saying as I expected the changes ie new alt and s/c to generate higher temperature but it has changed so dramatically that it is definately something else as well. Probably best to wait for Hennys Water Pump change guide and once all of this is done I will take a look at other options, I might as well change this whilst im on holiday next week and the thermo. I dont run an oil cooler as yet but that would not drop the water temp that much would it or does it?

I am pretty sure me and Steve at PitStop checked the vaultage but I will definately check this again, I am almost 99% sure mine is the flow of the collant relating to pressure/thermo/waterpump/slightly blocked rad. As always guys thanks alot for your help so far. The problem with analysing temperature problems is that it can be caused by so many damn things and could be different for everyone, always best to start with the cheapest which I have done and work from that as a wise man once said;

The problem remains temperature related although nothing points to anything directly anymore. The car runs up to 115 water and about 115 oil after 10 mins either casual driving, motorway anything you name it. It used to run at 95 water and about 95 oil ish before supercharger went and the fan and fan switch. I have now changed for new, the fan, fan switch, the temperature sender (black switch), alternator, supercharger, tyres, brakes in I would say 2 months so far (jesus) Notes: Water appears to be fine head gasket does not appear to be the problem, if i turn the heater on full heat it drops the temperature down to 95-100 within 10 mins, the top rad hose is hot and bottom and rad same temperature all over after about 10 minutes, presumably once thermo opens. The fan is coming on after Ignition is turned off and at 108 as per the switch details but not at a lower temperature and it doesnt seem to stay on for long. Everything suggests waterpump and thermo are fine but there is definately poor circulation somewhere resulting in the water heating up, just thought **** it change everything whilst im at it, this car is staying in my hands for years to come.

Hello Henny, Cheers for the rapid response, I will be doing all the work during a planned holiday in one weeks time so dont put yourself out for a response tonight although it would be greatly appreciated anytime within a week. If the thermostat/water pump dont work im down to the rad or water leak (not that there is one) Questions for you. The water pump fins are they plastic or metal? If plastic this could explain a bad flow problem resulting in overheating due to some fins being damaged.

My apologies in advance for not having found this in the forums already although I know it does exist in a cob webbed corner somewhere. Can someone give me a quick run down on the quickest way to change both the Water Pump and Thermo, obviously same deal as they are connected. Perhaps this should be in "How To"

Dont replace the rad without having it checked m8ey, I went down to serck's in Oxford cause I thought it was the rad and they said they could test it for free once its off :(. However I think the test is just running water and may not take into account the fact that it is pumped about. I have almost decided its not the rad on mine, I ran it up to 110 within 7 minutes from work, checked the rad and it was cold at the bottom and bottom pipe and hot at the top of the rad and pipe, little did I know the thermo hadnt opened just yet and by the time I drove 3 minutes to the rad place it was all hot (presumably means rad is fine) Righteo, Its time for that damn thermostat tomorrow and Ive just got to pick up a new fan switch so that kicks in properly. Thanks for the 5th bolt info, knew there was some slippery sod somewhere.

Well hows it going x-router, you have exactly the same problem as mine, when I say exactly I mean exactly down to the same tempertaure and the fan problem. I have had advice to see if the radiator is the same temperature over the whole rad once ran up to running temp, make sure the fan is off though, also a rare problem could be the bottom pipe coming out of the collant bottle being blocked, very rare. If the radiator is blocked or damaged it could eb causing this problem apparently. How did you get to the thermostat, this bracket just doesnt come off once the 4 bolts are off it ?