buttles

Leave the hydraulic pipe attached unless you intend to change the slave. There is enough flex to move the unit around to see inside. It is attached with two bolts going into the bell housing. Undo those and slide the slave away. You will see a rod coming out of the unit with a rubber gaitor around it which stops crud getting into the unit. It is that gaitor on mine which had interfered with the rod jamming it into the unit. A new unit was the cure, been fine ever since. Hope it was the shelf!!

Had this years back. Slave cylinder rubber gaitor was jamming the release rod. Changed, ok. You have to take the slave cylinder off to check, simple job.

Sounds the same as mine......plastic cable guide at the top of the of the mech had cracked allowing the cable to slip down enough to stop it pulling the window all the way up. Is it noisy? Did a bodge repair which lasted a year or so before I had to change the whole mech unit.$$$$!

If you can get to the Redhill area then I can help you out with Vagcom

I have some newish 280mm 5 stud ones if you want.

I would leave it for a bit and see how they are in a week or so

Bit of overlap there!! If you turn the wheel by hand does it drag at any particular spot?

Sounds like you have sorted it. Any new components will take a while to bed in and might cause a little drag in the brakes causing the 'ssss'. Just the pad rubbing on the disk. There will be no gap between the pads and the disk.

Quite a bit on here about the VAG sensor slipping down the steering column. Perhaps the same has happened to your setup?

Quite a few insurance companys don't recognise it anymore as a Thatcham 1. I have one and Admiral seem to be the only mainstream company that will take it without any recent check. Luckily they are the cheapest for me :) The factory fit didn't include the battery backup siren under the bonnet, had to get it fitted later to make it Thatcham 1.

There is no 'returning' pressure as such. When you take your foot off the pedal the pressure dissipates back up through the master cylinder. The pistons then just sit where they are, not providing any force against the pads. The rear brakes also have the hand brake mechanism which through a cam type setup internally push the piston out when you pull up on the handbrake. As you have seen, when you move the lever on the end of the calliper the piston comes out and stayes out. That is normal as there is no disc and pads to stop the piston coming out. When people talk of seizing callipers it is the piston not being allowed to move back a little by the mechanical mechanism which causes the pads to be kept against the disc. Internal corrosion can also have the same effect by jamming the piston. Hope all that is not too full of bull!! Good luck.....

I have some working front callipers and carriers off a VR if you need them.

Hi, did you clear the codes and re-scan after changing the sensors? You might find the sensor error has gone. Welcome and good luck!

Second the leaky injector. Cleaning them didn't work. Had to get new ones but sorted it.

Yup, thats them! They hold the lock to the steering stem. You tighten them up 'till the hex snaps off leaving a thief proof lock. The ignition switch electric part retaining screw on my VR was impossible to get to in situ. Had to get those bolts undone first. Well done :D

Can't see the picture but if they are the shear bolts then you did very well to change the ignition switch without removing the old ones first!! I found the easyest way to remove them was to hacksaw a slot in them to use a screwdriver. They shear at a fairly low torque.

Young Lad........PM sent

I got mine from Fairzy. He might have some left. Look in this thread for his post.

An M reg should be with a coilpack. The plug leads come out of a rectangular box bolted on the nearside of the engine. GSF price is £115+vat. Pt No 92526. How do you know you need one? If your camber is very out and i mean very, the top of the wheel will look to be in a different place compared to the other wheel.

Looks like you have the wrong wishbone in there!!

I should have some Black Diamond 280 grooved disks and ferodo DS2500 pads available soon. Very little wear. Will put in 'For sale' when I no longer need them

Hmmmm...I have Black diamond 280 disks now and Ferrodo pads which are better than standard. Thinking I will save a few pennies and go for the 288 Black Diamond. The 280 ones are fairly new so they might appear in the for sale section soon!! Thanks

Have got hold of a pair of 288 calipers and carriers so was pricing up the extra to upgrade to 312. If 280 was a '0' and the 312 was a '10' where would you rate the 288 setup? Hope that makes sense! All I really want is a better pedal feel and brakes that work better at higher speed without having to stand on the pedal.

I wish I could find the dealer at that price...........just been quoted £98+vat each. :shocked!: Looking at second hand ones now

All I need now is some carriers :?: Cheers