buttles
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Everything posted by buttles
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Is it draining into the bell housing? If so you might have done the seal.
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Will the rod push in without the hydraulic hose attached?
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http://s2central.net/ds_G70.html Have a run through this. This is for the six pin MAF (Old type) Maybe if you have the newer type there is a link.
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Next try 12.00 GMT Sunday 14th Oct
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http://www.redbullstratos.com This bloke about to leap into the abyss. If you feel a thud later?!! Wish him luck. Live link top of their webpage
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I found this site... http://www.chucklohr.com/808/index.shtml. Scroll down a bit to the 'Table of Contents'. 16 lines down the first column is 'how to set date and time' link. Took me a few goes but it works eventually. That's after I figured out which model I had. I think there is a wildcard program that will do all of them. Have fun!! Neil
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I think the same thing happens when you remove the whole clock unit. So it looks like you are loosing a permanent live feed to the unit. The clock not showing is odd though
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Daily from new in '94. 130k. Wish turbo had been in from new. No longer used for long trips. (Don't dare say it has never let me down) D'oh. Too late?
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Glad it's fixed. As far as I know it's a direct link from the Ignition switch to the solenoid. No other logic. I will smile if you repost in the hot weather that it just clicks!! Neil
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Hmmm....mine never failed to turm when cold. And never had a 'delay' when turning the key. That I would have put down to ignition switch but you have changed that. Recently? Earths would be my next look? The relay is easy to do and avoids hot start problems in the future. Back to bed after a very wet, cold Knebworth!
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Have you checked the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Think it's 4 Bar normal and 3 Bar at idle. Get a guage on the fuel rail to check it's switching.
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Hasan, what are your starting symptoms? This thread is just about getting the dreaded click when starting a hot engine, normally on a hot day.
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Easier, say safer way to check servo is to pump brakes with engine off a few times to exhaust any vacuum. Then press pedal and start engine. As vacuum builds the pedal will go down. If it doesn't then servo is not working somewhere. Ignore kick of ABS system priming. Neil
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Not really practical as wires all over the place. I put the relay in a strong plastic bag behind the battery and ran the wires down to the starter motor. Make sure you have a good join to the starter motor plug. I soldered, crimped and heat shrunk mine. Been good for six yrs now. This thread should be called 'Click no more'! Also, not had to change an Ignition switch since.
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fla, I cut the wire about 3 inches from the plug on the starter motor. You then attach the load wire from the relay to the plug. The loose end (from the ignition switch) then attaches to the trigger terminal on the relay. Quite the most simple and best mod I've done to the car. Neil
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I had a leak where it would **** out of the flexy pipes for 2 seconds as pressure built up then stop and dry before I could see or smell the culrpit. Petrol would run down the pipe channel under the car and drip. Needed someone to turn the car over from cold while I watched. Only did it from cold when there was no or low fuelrail pressure! *Edit*...Like the auto swear bleeper! 50p in the jar?
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The plug (rather, Socket) in your picture is the car side of the connection. The probes come with the male side. You will need to either reattach it to the car loom or bodge it and connect the wires directly.
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Looks like a Lambda connector. Does the G60 have a four wire probe?
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Glad it's fixed!!
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Hanbrake cable / calliper question does this look right?
buttles replied to Rams's topic in Drivetrain
Had the same issue on my Mk4s. The gap for the cable was bigger on the new calipers. Just used some mole grips to squeeze the gap smaller slightly. Several years ago and no problems. Always leave it in gear as a safeguard. -
WD40 into the bearings works a treat. Been keeping mine going for 12 years like that. Needs doing every couple of years.
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By the way the top connector is bent it looks like you ( or someone else) may have put some side stress on the plug while torquing them in. How's the insulation? I would change them all for peace of mind!
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I find Lambda codes come and go at their leisure. Leave it for a few days and scan again. Idle speed regulation may have been triggered by unplugging the MAF when engine running. Assume the engine speed sensor code came up with engine stopped so ignore.
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If it had been an 'Adaptation limit exceeded code on the Lambda then I would go for another cause but a short to ground does point towards a wireing problem in the Lambda circuit. Worth fully checking before spending money. I have a lambda socket here if need be
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vr6 start problem - ignition switch or starter motor??
buttles replied to stevef182's topic in Engine Bay
http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41192-For-those-with-hot-start-problems-lil-update&highlight=hot+start+problems+-+lil+update Guide there shows how to use a relay to send battery umph to the solenoid. Did mine years ago after er, years of hot start nothingness. Neil