buttles

Just to clarify the Owner's Manual.....'Coolant level must be between the MIN and MAX marks when the engine is COLD and not running. It can be slightly above the MAX mark when warm'

Depends if you have a wireing diagram? If the obd 2 stuff is the same colour code or not as 1. Be sure before you start choppin!

Right!...... First photo. Those just join together to form the control loom. Launch control and different levels of slip required. Second photo. The two long looms draped gracefully are the injector cables, good, you have the long ones. Those are both cut and reconnected with the white plugs to form the bypass link. Make sure you are logical and make them so they can be joined together to form a circuit if you need to remove the control box. Third photo. Access to the wires in the loom are on the car side of the multiplug. I have no knowledge of OBD 2 wireing so will stop here!! Fourth photo. No. The signal wires go into the ECU in the pax footwell by door hinge. They are neatly in a row. Peasy really!! Good luck. Neil

Or the guide in the Wiki?

Iv'e got one of these. Struggles in the cold a bit but very good normally. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... &U=strat15. I would suggest that you use a 'leccy one though :wink:

The gas ones are great. BUT, far too much to melt around where you are going to be working. And it's quite a long fiddly job, will be refilling a few times.

I just have a halfords one. If your new to soldering then it's worth practicing first. You need to be able to tin the bare wires first time to get a clean join. Can be easy to burn the insulation Trying different temperatures to find what gets the best first time results. Don't worry it's not rocketry! You will find big differences between inside and outside iron temps!! Neil And what Kev just said!!

Answers...! 1. To bare the sensor wires on the ABS loom just use a stanley blade to expose just enough to tin. DO NOT CUT THEM! All others just what comes to hand. I use a stanley all the time (Skin on thumb quite thick now) 2. Any generic tool for crimps. I backed up all crimps with solder. I joined the injector wires with solder only 3. Suitable diameter heat shrink then loom tape in the engine bay. 4. You should have a loom from Racelogic with the long injector wires to run from the pax shelf area forward into the engine bay. The red switched live lead is quite short. I just extended it with spare cable. The ABS has four wires that need to be tapped into the loom. Make sure you tap into the signal wire not the shielding wire!! The instructions are a bit vague as to which channel is which lead. It doesn't really matter as you can check and allocate that in the software. Have you got a wireing diagram for the injector loom? Helps alot when drawing the circuit. Keep 'em coming!! Neil

Hi, problem is ,it's all buried in the car now. (as is the car right now) Control box sticks snugly on front of glovebox, ABS wires tapped in at ecu plug and injector loom inserted just under the Rad fan control unit about 4 inches back from the engine multiplug. Bypass plugs (white) sit on top of pax shelf. Tapping for rpm signal at engine ecu plug and switched live at ignition switch. Any more info pls ask. Neil

Found this the other day. http://s2central.net/ds_G70.html. Maybe a guide to the OBD 2 MAF in there somewhere?

The sandwich plate, pipework and heat exchanger become part of the normal oilway in the engine. kev, did you drain the Mocal assy back into the sump as you removed it? Same reason that you need to top up the oil when you fit a Mocal. And again, the stat closes as it warms :wink: And thanks for the gauge info

Thinking of fitting a pressure gauge to mine. What gauge have you used Kev? And sender? Ta.

The article is showing the Bosch Pt No as 0 280 213 007. Whereas the VR one (6 pin) is 0 280 213 021. Don't know if the housing is the same but I bet the internals are.

Hope this hasn't been covered before but found this article on testing my VR6 MAF. All the voltages came out bang on so good figures for the Corrado. http://s2central.net/ds_G70.html

fla, it took me a good five or six flushes even with a new rad to get clear coolant. Now a happy pink :camp: Do not restrict the flow to the Mocal heat exchanger 'cos it needs to be free when the bypass valve closes in the plate. If you do you will restrict the oil system :gag:

Hour and a half lunch break? Slacker!! The intercooler position is possibly blocking some forced airflow. Only the temps when stationary are odd as well. The fans at 95 only come on for 5 or 6 seconds so there is good flow through the water rad. Will have to wait till next summer to sort it as now all is within normal limits. :? Cheers

Yes, would be very surprised if timing out. New rad, main pump and several flushes. Heat exchanger gets hot so oil getting there (as above, oil has to get there cold or hot). Oil in summer was more like 100C. But very rarely got much hotter even on a hot day. Was surprised to see 115 on the drive from Stealth :eek: Ah forgot, Corrado VR6

Before the Turbo conversion (and Mocal) my water was at 85 and oil 95 on a summer motorway run. After, (with Mocal) the water was very quickly going up to 100 and oil was 115. I did have a new thermostat fitted so maybe my old one was running cool? With ambient temp now around 8deg it behaves like a summer day. I had the Stealth Turbo Stage 1 done so spacer plate. I will ask Vince of the chances of slipped timing but really recon he will have covered that.

Just whatever you do DON'T blank off the unions out to the heat exchanger. The thermo plate actually closes a bypass valve to force flow through the exchanger. The path out to the exchanger is free to flow at all times. It's a fail safe incase the thermo valve fails. Since going Turbo my temps have been higher under normal driving even with a Mocal. Yet to fathom out why.

The ABS rotors arn't magnetised are they? Think they are just a proximity on/off ring. If so then the sensor would have to have a power supply of some sort? An email to Racelogic should get you the answer.Neil

Yes, I recon is the answer. The T\C takes a tapping off a live sensor. When I was testing mine I managed to trip off the ABS and the T\C stopped working.

For the time it takes to do you will be glad you did. Makes everyday driving much easier/relaxed with all that uumph. Turned mine off the other day just to remind myself how useless (Read...scary) the car is in even the slightest of damp conditions. Neil

Look in the suppliers section for the Stealth Turbo kit. £4400 inc plus other bits to 'carry' the extra strain. The Charger is bolt on, no extra engine work needed.

I have now relisted it in the for sale section so best to continue this there. Ta, Neil

I have all the 'parts' for a VF9 Charger sitting on a shelf at Stealth Racing ready to go on a VR. Just about to relist it in the for sale section!