stevemac

I'll be there if I can get Friday off work.. :D (to strip & rebuild my engine) otherwise I'll have my car in bits this weekend... :(

Just Matz are excellent quality - I have a set in my car. Customised logos look a bit flimsy on first impression but are actually very hardwaring. Not sure what they stick them on with but it's good stuff. Not sure about their cheaper range but the midrange carpets are definitely worth the money IMO. If you order from them you MUST specify if you want a driver's heelpad - not standard for some reason !! Not sure if the VAG mats are still available - very good quality, if you can get some.

Method of elimination means that it is definintely connected to the wide "poly v-belt" also known as a "mono belt". It is definitely not the alternator (checked), tension or idler pulley (both changed), waterpump (now changed). When the engine is run without any belts connected (except for cambelt) the noise stops. When I remove the power steering belt the noise is still there. Engine was stripped of all ancilleries, pulleys & belts then rebuilt 6 weeks ago - noises are still there !! Quite correct for a cambelt, however the "poly v-belt" has a spring loaded self tensioning device. The noises as detailed above are apparent even when the standard pulley & brand new original VW belt are refitted. Am I certain it's the charger at fault - well no, not 100% which is why I (fully qualified mechanic BTW) plan to strip the engine again this weekend. The charger rebuilders are also professionals and I am prepared to respect that fact. All I can say, in this instance is that their diagnosis was incorrect. What they have done, however, is to agree with me that the other items connected to the same belt are all okay. Maybe I've missed something, none of us are perfect - I hope I have because then it will be easy to solve. What I can say is that it is unlikely to be a problem with the items listed above as being checked/changed (although I will be re-checking everything because I'm starting to get a bit paranoid) History The rattling noise originally began a few days after having the charger modified (7 weeks after buying the car), the bearing whine began a couple of weeks after that. At the time I just thought that a different part had started to fail. The noises have gradually got louder as time has gone by.

Got car back from garage on Monday evening. After just over an hours worth of diagnosis they came to the decision that my waterpump was at fault & replaced it.... :) Unfortunately, this has made very little or no difference whatsoever to either the rattling while the engine is warming up or the loud bearing whine when the engine is hot..... :( I'm gonna strip the engine this weekend for some in-depth diagnosis !!... :?

Check your plastic timing belt covers. Lower cover can catch & rattle on the pulleys if it's bent or not secured properly.

My front spoiler is screwed/clipped to the front bumper at the edges only - next to the wheel arches. This allows the front edge to fold backwards when it hits any bumps in the road. There is a kind of a hinge already built into the joint between the bumper/spoiler.

ABS was on option on some models & standard on others. ABS pump, if you have one, will be fitted on the passengers side of the engine bay - near the coolant expansion tank.

Yes - interior door handle spilts in half. Easiest to lever the outer cover from the bottom. Also 1 screw behind the speaker cover.

I just carry a can of "tyre weld" & joined the AA

Good choice m8 - I'd have one of those too. Integrale is a fun car to drive but I don't like left hookers for daily use.

Never saw that one. :?: 2 door, 2 seater coupe version- built around 6 or 7 years ago.

I suppose it's only a matter of time before all cars will look fairly similar to other cars. There's only so many different shapes for what is essentially a box on 4 wheels. Personally I prefer the individualistic "classic" shapes - VW Corrado (of course), AC Cobra, Ferrari 308GTB, Lamborghini Miura, Porsche 911, Fiat X19, Honda Civic targa top, etc, etc

I agree, each potential problem would also need to be correctly titled.

I agree, all of the particular Corrado models were built within a fairly close timeframe e.g. G60's were only built for a couple of years. If a particular item has worn badly on one vehicle then the chances are that other vehicles of the same engine type (and therefore similar age) will also suffer from the same problem. Maybe the existing "problems" section could be split into seperate sections for each engine type ??

Link's just giving a "403 - forbidden" error Nice looking car though......... 8)

No problem Just make sure you take your car to a specialist who knows the G60 electrical system - try to use a workshop which specialises in VW cars. Otherwise you may drive away with more problems than you went in with. Hope the garages in your area are better than the ones here in Leeds. VW specialists here are useless. Good luck............ :thumbleft:

Just replaced mine last weekend - wasn't leaking but very badly cracked.

Nope, it's a looped fuel system so the fuel pump will fire even when the engine's not running and all it does is recirculate the fuel from the tank through the pipework to the engine and back again down the return pipe... It does this when hot so that you don't get fuel evaporation in the lines so the car will start from hot after you've left it for a little while... 8) I wondered about it when I first found out about it too, now I'm actually quite glad there's a system fitted to keep the fuel cool in the engine bay... :) 8) VW think of everything ehh

Cambelt is a toothed belt which connects the camshaft, crankshaft & distributor drive gears together. On the drivers side edge of your engine you will see 2 plastic covers - the top one covers the top of the belt where it rides on the camshaft pulley. Cambelt & cambelt tensioner pulley should be replaced every 50-60 thousand miles by a suitably qualified/knowledgeable person. Your distributor should be secured by a small clamping plate with a bolt through it. This clamp is located at the narrow base of the distributor where it connects into the engine block. The plastic piece & wire that you have noticed will be the "hall sender". This sensor tells the ECU when cylinder 1 is at Top Dead Centre. This info will be used, along with info from various other sensors, by the ECU to self correct any timing problems.

Rob - welcome to the forum, can't see your sig though.

Wouldn't that be quite dangerous ??

G60 fan is controlled by 2 seperate sensors - water temp sensor & engine bay ambient air temp sensor. The G60 fan can run-on for quite some time after the engine is switched off, 15-20 minutes on a hot day.

Not normal, although I'm not sure of the cause. Possibly a fault somewhere in the cold start system ??

Sounds like your timing needs looking at. Blue temp sensor sends a signal to the ECU enabling the self correcting timing system to operate. With this temp sensor connected, your ECU will make corrections to the timing which will enable your engine to run even when the timing is set wrongly. Re-setting the timing must be done with the blue temp sensor disconnected. It should be set to approx 6 degrees BTDC. The cause of your timing being incorrect is what you will need to find out. Possibilities :- loose distributor, damaged or incorrectly mounted distributor cap or rotor arm, damaged cambelt. Damaged cambelt is very serious and its condition should be checked immediately.

The colder the air is when it gets into the engine, the higher/more dense the oxygen content. As your engine burns a mixture of fuel & oxygen, more oxygen = more power. When your supercharger compresses air (boost) it also heats it and the air then requires cooling before it gets to the engine. High boost psi is almost useless if the air is too hot. You are far better and will have much more power with less boost psi of much colder air. The important factor is the amount of oxygen getting into the engine. Unfortunately, there is no straight forward swap. Usually speaking, whatever cooler that you use will need to be adapted to fit the space available. Front bumper will almost certainly need modifying to allow air to pass through into whatever cooler that you fit I will soon be using 2 Mercedes C-Class coolers mounted on top of each other. These will both be joined together with a custom made joining tank/pipe at the drivers side. This will allow both the inlet (into the bottom cooler) and the outlet (from the top cooler) to both be on the passengers side to eliminate the need for any U bends in the pipework. Pipework will need to be as unrestricted as possible to increase flow. Best material for the pipes is polished aluminum alloy - this has good reflective capabilities and retains very little heat.