stevemac

I'll try to find you when you arrive. My G60 WILL be the lowest black Corado in the car park (dropped it 3 inches yesterday afternoon) - 6 spoke dark anodised 17" alloys and some rather dull but very black rear lights. I'll have my 6 year old daughter with me as well - she likes fast cars !!!

All black on mine... :afro:

Are you coming to the Corrado Club day at Woburn Abbey ?? If you are then you can have a look at mine. Made from 2 halves of MDF (for ease of removal) and covered with acoustic carpeting. I shimmed-up the uneven parts of the boot floor so that it all sits very steady. Also MDF parcel shelf as well (housing a pair of 360w 6x9's). majik - I see you're breaking a '92 G60 - have you still got the electric mirror switch, doesn't matter if it doesn't work, I need to rob some bits to repair mine.

Chip shouldn't make much, if any, difference to the exhaust note. I've got a large induction kit & Magnex exhaust on my G60. At low revs it sounds like a low rumble, as the revs increase the note gets louder and after about 3000rpm it starts to sound like a WW2 Spitfire setting off down the runway (very loud). Part of the noise will be coming from my induction kit and the rest from the exhaust.

VR6 has a wider front axle than a G60

Got some Fox FP2's 7j X 17" (ET37) on my G60 (lowered) and they rub on the front chassis legs with steering in full lock !!!!.... :x 205/40WR17 Goodyear Eagle F1's - both front tyres now f*****

mum we NEED an R1.......... :mrgreen:

Enlarged top & bottom chambers - ported & polished, enlarged outlet & make sure to get an RSR outlet as well. 65mm pulley on mine. Best to fit a large front mounted intercooler as the original piece of sh1t can't handle the extra boost !!! I'm gonna go for a SNS chip when all my mods are finished. So far I've got a R1 charger, Jabba induction kit, 65mm pulley, shorter mono/fan belt. I'm currently fitting a RSR charger outlet and a large front mounted intercooler with custom header tanks & aluminum pipework and a 3.5bar FPR.

Get an R1 - well worth the extra cost....... :thumbleft:

Looks like I have a fault - something else to sort when I get time... :roll:

When it looks like this "-" or this "l" it doesn't work with central locking, to open it I have to turn the key so it looks like this "/" in which case it will open regardless of wether the rest of the car is locked or not.

Easy way to check your thermostat is to run your engine untill hot and then feel the radiator - if it's still cold then your thermostat isn't opening properly.

When the boot lock is working correctly - central locking, etc. Should I still need to open it with the key or should I just be able to press the plunger for it to open ?? I've always wondered why I need to use the key to open the tailgate IF the central locking is working correctly. I cannot activate/de-activate the central locking system from the boot lock. Do I have a central locking fault ?? :?

I've spoken to a friend with extensive VW experience - he says that the G60 will USUALLY only wipe out some of the hydraulic lifters - your valves SHOULD be okay. YES your valves MAY catch the pistons but the weakness is in the hydraulic lifters & not the valves. I changed the cambelt on my G60 a few weeks ago and turned the crank over 3 times with no damage whatsoever to the valves or lifters. Compression test may be a good idea. Depending on the hardness of the bolt, you may be able to drill down the centre of the bolt & hammer a multi-splined allen key into the hole. This should then just unscrew. The remaining section of the bolt in your crank should be loose and SHOULD come out fairly easily.

The constant whistling on mine is seriously LOUD. Sounds like LOUD gearbox whine - the noise you get on a lot of cars when in reverse gear. Maybe due to a boost leak ?? I'll be renewing all cooler pipework soon as I'm fitting a front mounted cooler. Gonna see what it sounds like when I've finished.

Preparing to fit a larger, front mounted cooler to my G60 at the moment. (R1 charger) Samco hoses, 76mm RSR outlet, 76mm polished aluminum alloy pipework into cooler, 63mm polished aluminum alloy pipework from cooler to throttle housing. Using a Mercedes C-class cooler core with custom made aluminum header tanks. All pipework being professionally bent to shape (I work for an engineering company). Front bumper will need most of the steel removing from it & I will be cutting a large hole into it where the numberplate currently fits. This hole will then be covered with wire mesh and will allow unrestricted airflow directly into the cooler. With some parts (including RSR outlet) & advice from Darren - mailto:[email protected] Upon completion, I will be posting a full range of before, inbetween & after photos & instructions...... 8)

Trouble is, here in Leeds (good sized City) the motor trade appears to be populated by retards.......... :?

Different emmissions laws here in the uk. Don't need the CAT - don't want the CAT. I just want to throw it away..... :lol: Gonna throw it into a skip with a BIG smile on my face.............. :lol:

My Magnex CAT back system is only a couple of months old, so I'm just looking for a CAT bypass pipe. Gonna speak to this guy from Powerflow next week and tell him what I want. If he can supply - great. If he can't then I'll mail-order one from somewhere else. Fitting it myself, so if it isn't upto scratch I'll be sending it back.... :blackeye: Basically all I need is a straight piece of stainless pipe (of the relevent diameter) with a flange on one end and a union to screw my oxygen sensor into. Can't be that difficult - can it ??.... :?

Found a "VW specialist" here in Leeds today. I thought "great, I can get some stuff sorted now". My first question to them was "how long would you take to change the seal ring on the intermediate shaft/distributor drive pulley. The guy thought for a moment, came outside to have a look at the layout of my G60 and then said "around 4 hours mate". After around 5 minutes of rolling around on the floor laughing my head off, I informed him that I changed the front crank seal a couple of weeks ago. That job took me about 3 hours - on my driveway !! In a fully equipped workshop I could do it in 2 - 2 1/2 hours. I then informed him that my pants are for keeping my arse warm - not my ankles.. :lol: Both of these 2 jobs are almost identical in time taken - within 30 mins of each other. Now, I'm fairly certain that with the right tools even my sister could do the job in 4 hours. Some specialist ehh

Thanks for the advice, I'm not really bothered which make of CAT bypass I end up fitting. It must be hi-flow (due to my other mods - R1 charger, etc), it must be well made and I would prefer if it was stainless steel. Most of the garages here in Leeds are a bunch of cowboys/rip-off merchants - gonna post another thread about that !!

So long as your 'plane doesn't break down............ :lol:

Gradually this forum seems to be getting more & more international. We have users from Spain, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada, USA and of course the UK.

Cheers Darren - email on it's way...... :thumbleft:

Just put yer head in the oven - works everytime for me........ :lol: