stevemac

Don't forget the sea-sickness pills if your using it in auto mode.. :lol: You may be surprised to know, it does have a dump valve - they're just a bit quiet on the Smart, possibly due to the low boost levels. We used to have lots of fun in those things when I used to work for Mercedes.. :thumbleft:

Nice one - I'll be at Woodall from around 9:15 onwards... 8)

I'll be getting a SNS chip too - just as soon as I get around to fitting the front mount cooler that I currently have sitting on my dining room floor !!

Given the age of the G60's, and the cheapness of the hall sender (around £35 from memory) I'd just replace it anyway.

1.8 16v - early body shape/interior 2.0 16v - late body shape/interior G60 - upto late 1991 - early body shape/interior G60 - from late 1991 - late body shape/early interior VR6 - late body shape/interior ? you can also get the 2.0 16v with the late body shape but early interior......as with very early VR6's including the "campaign" :roll:

1.8 16v - early body shape/interior 2.0 16v - late body shape/interior G60 - upto late 1991 - early body shape/interior G60 - from late 1991 - late body shape/early interior VR6 - late body shape/interior ?

There's a few of us travellin from up t'north, meeting at Woodall services - M1 http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... highlight= Anybody else from the Leeds area want to meet for the trip down to Woodall ??

OMG - you have a Smart car ?? :lol: :lol:

Very very important to leave the boost check in there. It's one of the few ways of checking if the G60 supercharger requires a re-build or not. Weak/damaged charger could bump up the cost of a G60 by around £400 !!

Sounds logical to me Captain.. :twisted:

thats a great check list VR6, i agree with this perhaps change to idle around 400-500?? My intention was not to criticise, merely to point out that there are some slight differences between the US & UK spec cars. The rest of the boost check, with the exception of the highlighted paragraph, is valid. There just appears to be a difference in idle readings between the US & UK spec cars. Possibly having slightly different vacuum systems due to the different emmissions regulations. I would leave the rest of the info on there and just remove this individual, very misleading paragraph which does not apply to UK spec cars.

The boost check paragraph :- You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. This is misleading & should be altered - UK spec cars idle with a reading of approx 450-470 (warm engine). Colours/codes section :- red paint turning a pinky colour is not just limited to VW's, it is characteristic of all red paint - regardless of vehicle manufacturer. Along with Roddy's ammendments, everything else looks okay to me

No problem m8 - just added a technical paragraph into my earlier post - may help explain the differences in output measurement for you.

This is the answer to why the front speaks sound poor the 4x50w quoted for your head unit is probably pmpo (at best!!!). For example - rather than using the RMS voltage of the amplifier output which might be 12.6 volts driving the 8 ohm speaker, PMPO uses the peak voltage (17.9 volts) and works out power this way: (17.9)(17.9)/8 = 40 watts. And then both channels are added together: 80 watts. Sounds high-power in the advertising, but in actual practice is misleading Most amplifiers will begin to distort the sound output signal long before the rated maximum power output is achieved, this distortion is the main cause of speaker damage. chrishill - if you aren't using RCA leads then get some. Turn up the gain controlls on your amps, maybe to 75% of maximum - this will mean that for a given volume, your dash tweeters will not have so much distortion from the head unit to cope with.

I think this item has been discussed a few times In short - the answer is no By all means buy it if you want to - but the answer is no, it doesn't work.

Cheers m8 I was quite fortunate when I fitted my stuff - one of my mates is a professional sound engineer. He just made a few cups of tea for me while I fitted my stereo.. :lol: :lol:

Sounds more like 10 gauge - 4 gauge is more likely to be used in a power station. Check where the switchable live is taken from - could be part of your headunit dimming problem. Move it to the electric aerial connection on the back of the headunit. Yeah - I've got 3 dash tweeters, VIBE component 160w front door speakers (tweeter + mid bass in each door), VIBE 6x9 300w rear speakers in a custom built MDF shelf, factory rear speakers connected to head unit & 12" sub. :rambo: chrishill - just a thought, is the sound signal supplied to your amps via RCA leads or speaker outputs ??

600w amp wiring kits are not readily available - go to Maplins, tell them the output of your amp and they will make a kit up for you. You will need to use at least an 8 gauge (with 40 amp fuse) permanent live power feed direct from your battery. Any smaller than 8 gauge on a 600w amp is a fire hazzard - your car may set on fire as the cable will get very very hot. I would change this immediately !! Take the switchable live feed for the amps from the electric aerial connection on the back of your head unit. Thin cable is okay for this switchable live as all it does is send a pulse of power when the head unit is turned on & another pulse when it is turned off. Most ICE suppliers do not stock wiring kits rated above 400w. Your dash speakers may have reached the end of their lifespan - maybe time to change/uprate them Battery should be okay - I'm currently running a 480w 4-channel amp, a 200w 2-channel amp (bridged) and a 4x50w head unit, all powering a total of 12 speakers. I have no problems at all !!

Usually higher Ah batteries are bigger in size, however there is not always very much difference. I tend to use Varta as they also manufacture a lot of the original VW batteries. There is a very good Varta battery specialist here in Leeds. I would measure your battery tray and see what the biggest dimensions for your new battery could be. Then phone the battery specialist. You will need to tell them which side the positive & negative terminals are and also wether the posts are flat or round.

Very good point Kev.

My remarks were general in nature, based on many seperate incidents and not relating specifically to this problem. However, I do stand by everything that I wrote & beleive that is the way things should be.

steveo29 - what model Corrado do you have ?? If you have a CAT1 alarm fitted to the car then I would always uprate the battery. Although this is not usually necessary - if you intend to leave the car for a few days at a time with the alarm armed it is something which I would strongly advise. For example - if you currently have a 65ah battery then replace it with a 74ah battery instead. Universal fitment, insulated battery jackets are readily available for most sizes of car battery - this will also help. Just as an example :- Some Mercedes vehicles have batteries of 100ah capacity and still go flat if left for 2 weeks with the alarm system armed.

So far as I'm aware there is a valve somewhere in the Activated Charcoal fuel vent system.

Maybe at 82 he shouldn't be driving anymore ?? I'd hate to think what his reaction time would be in an emergency situation !! For the safety of all road users, I think there should be an annual, mandatory test for all persons over a certain age.

Were also heading into Winter, in case anybody hadn't already noticed. Car batteries are fairly temperature sensative. When it starts to get cold your car's battery power can be reduced by upto 30% just because of the low temperature. Any doubts - replace your battery & have your alternator output checked.