stevemac

Is your new chip specifically designed for use with a 3.5bar FPR ?? Possible ISV re-route problem ??

I'm gonna be removing & possibly replacing my rear subframe assy soon, the original appears to be slightly bent or maybe out of adjustment. Do I need to follow any specific proceedure ?? Or is it just the usual case of removing the wheels, hubs, calipers, bottom shocker bolts, anti roll bar, exhaust, etc ??

In principle, I think that's exactly what it is. Great idea.. :lol: I think one of our "human rights" should be to be able to protect our own property by whatever means necessary - just like in the USA.

I suppose that would depend on your idea of a "proper car". Porsche 911 turbo, AC Cobra (427 cubic inch model with twin Paxton superchargers), DE-Thomaso Pantera, all spring to mind. I bought my G60 because I enjoy fooling around with cars. The G60 engine is very tunable and this is why I bought it. I could quite easily have bought a VR6 (or a Porsche 911 Turbo, for that matter) but I chose not to. My choice was in no way financially influenced, I've spent 7k on it since easter when I bought it and plan to spend about another 2k. I do actually like my Corrado and plan to keep it for a few years. BTW I'm currently looking to buy a Triumph TR6 or maybe a Stag to restore/tune - so if any of you have one, send me an email.

Great looking car - looks a lot like mine, only I have 6 spoke dark anodised alloys. Gonna have to post some more piccys of it when I get time.... 8) Mine's the one on the end of the row

Can't really comment on the Miltek system as I have no experience of them, although there are several other forum users who have Miltek exhausts fitted. The Magnex that I have was fitted by Jabbasport at the same time as the R1 charger conversion. I paid about £350 for the CAT back system (does not include the CAT). Excellent quality stainless steel system and I would fully recommend it. The tailpipe is oval and very similar in appearance to the original. The CAT bypass pipe cost £60, custom made & fitted from a local Powerflow dealer here in Leeds. My car was registered in February 1992 and so does not legally need to have a CAT fitted.

The car is, unfortunately, still at "project" stage. So far I've fitted a R1 charger, Jabba induction kit, 65mm pulley, Powerflow CAT bypass, Magnex CAT back exhaust & Superchip. I'm currently obtaining all the parts I need to fit a larger, custom built front mounted intercooler & RSR outlet. 3.5bar FPR will be fitted in the next couple of weeks. This will then be followed by a SNS rechip & oil cooler. Flowed & ported, big valve head will follow maybe early next year. 0-60 times are for the Max-Power brigade but when I'm happy with the car I'll be putting it onto a rolling road.

StormVR6 - I agree with what you have posted, mainly. With reference to my G60 project car. Over the last 2 weeks I have pushed this car to the limit on several occasions. I simply cannot make the engine overheat - no matter how hard I drive it (managed to break 2 wheels though). The oil gets a little hotter than I would like - I've seen temperatures of 128 degrees. This is why an oil cooler is now on my "to do" list. You obviously know your racing cars better than I do. I do, however, find it very difficult to beleive that Ferrari F1 cars use the same 10w40 semi-synthetic oil which is also available from your local Shell garage.

Best lubricating temperature for engine oil is between 95-110 degrees in a road car. Anything over 120 degrees is far too high - your oil will not lubricate correctly and it's condition will deteriorate very rapidly (i.e. need changing much sooner than the service schedule would suggest). The effect of high oil temperatures is that your engine will wear much quicker. I have heard so many stories from VR6 owners complaining about timing chain wear & noisy idling - this is almost always due to bad lubrication caused by heat damaged oil. Racing cars operate at much higher temperatures but they use specialist oil and renew it after each race. The reference to 145 degrees in the handbook is incorrect. (suspected misprint) I have worked in the motor trade for 15 years including 2 years at VWUK and the rest with Mercedes Benz.

I have run all my cables (2 amps, 4 front speakers & RCA leads) along the centre tunnel. I have the power cables running down the passenger side of the tunnel and the speaker & RCA cables down the driver's side of the tunnel. Like BANANA MAN said, if you run all the cables together you will get signal interefrence.

You won't notice much extra power from fitting an exhaust. Your engine still needs a certain amount of "back pressure" to run properly. You'll see the most gain from fitting a CAT bypass (so long as your car is pre August 1992).

Did you have to do much adapting to make it fit ?? R u gonna do the drivers seat as well ??

(Puts flameproof jacket on !!) Psi may well drop whilst using bigger pipes (76mm RSR outlet & 76mm pipe to cooler, 60mm cooler to engine, soon to be fitted to mine) as there is a larger volume to fill. This is more than compensated for with the R1 charger conversion, large front mounted cooler, increased flow & far more efficient cooling. There is no point having a very high boost psi if all you're doing is pumping hot air into the engine. Slightly less pressure of much colder air is far more efficient & will give more power. My current standard system just cannot cope with the pressure that my charger is pumping out. I go back to my original point which was that high boost psi is not good if all you're doing is pumping hot air into the engine. The important factor is not the volume of air but the volume of oxygen that gets into the engine.

Best thing to do is what I'm currently doing :- Get a suitable intercooler core (mine's from a Merc C-class). Have some aluminum header tanks custom made & welded to the core. Have some aluminum alloy pipework custom bent to shape by a local engineering company & get hold of some Samco hoses to join it all together. You WILL notice a substantial increase in power if you use a system like this as opposed to no intercooler at all. Maybe a month or two before I have mine completed. I will be posting pictures, dimensions & instructions when I'm finished.

You're right Jim, V6 3.2 aluminum alloy Merc engine is much lighter & more powerful than the older straight-6 3.2 cast iron lump that "onlyG60ing" would have been racing against.

If you don't have an intercooler fitted, you will be well down on power. Fit the biggest front mounted intercooler you can get with unrestricted pipework. You won't have anymore hassle from E320's. Despite the performance figures quoted for the E320 - they are not that quick. They handle like barges, a design fault means that they have several flat-spots through the rev range and I wouldn't get one if it was free !! The ONLY advantage of the E320 is the superb 5-speed auto transmission. This transmission changes it's own shift pattern, depending on how it's being driven !!

Check out http://www.snstuning.com there's a guide on boost psi in the diy section. Not sure what mine's doing at the moment - haven't measured it yet. Like you, I have a Jabba R1, 65mm pulley & Jabba induction kit. The real performance gains will be dependant on how hot/cold the air is when it gets to the inlet manifold. BIG front mounted intercooler, BIG pipework and unrestricted airflow are the key issues. The standard cooler cannot cope properly with 7 or 8 psi so at 15psi it will be rendered virtually useless. Colder air has a much higher oxygen content and therefore burns much more efficiently, giving more power.

Mine's fairly low now

That's my black G60, with the 6 spoke alloys, on the end of "line 5.jpg"... 8) Good to meet a few more people from the forum & put faces to names.. :D

Looks like a good idea :lol: - has anybody on the forum used or seen one yet ??

Sounds like your opening a "can of worms". I'd get a reconditioned head if it was my car.

My G60 is lowered approx 80mm on 205/40wr17's (ET37).......... 8) Fronts don't catch on the body but the rear wheel arches need rolling.... :?

Took me a whole afternoon to design & build mine..... :lol: Think your professionals may have been trying to justify whatever ridiculous price they may have charged. All you need is a spirit level, some MDF, a tape measure, a jigsaw, some acoustic carpet (I have a black, full roll spare if anybody needs it), a can of spray glue & a tube of "no nails"

I usually average around 25-27mpg overall....... :rambo:

Anyone else wanting to join the convoy ???