stevemac

The CCGB website will be back on-line very shortly. :D Many thanks to Jamie Hooper for his assistance in the domain transfer. Some of the new site is already uploaded to a temporary URL http://www.bluehost.com/~corradoc & will be transferred to the http://www.corradoclub.org web address as soon as the domain transfer is completed. I expect this to be either later this week or early next week. Doesn't look too good at the mo but I'll concentrate a little more on presentation once the rest of the content is uploaded.

Nice one - cheers . 8)

Nice one - just make sure you have your sunroof & your windows closed. :lol:

xnology, You mind if we use the font on the new CCGB website (soon to be uploaded) ??

Thought you we're having a laugh when you mentioned going in a taxi . :mrgreen: Haven't looked round the site too much but I have a spare VW 1.9TD engine, gearbox & all the wiring if you need it ? Runs "sweet as a nut"

I think they will be refering to the old Greenstuff pads - EBC have now changed the compound & the new greenstuff pads are reputedly much better.

Pagid fast road pads are still freely available from GSF

Similar to how mine looked last year . :mrgreen:

Head won't necessarily need skimming - be careful if it does as thicker head gaskets are not available for G60's. Every time the head is skimmed, the compression ratio increases. Did they use a metal or paper composite head gasket ? G60's should all have metal head gaskets - do not use the composite type. The trick is to work out why the head gasket failed in the first place & cure that fault before rebuilding the engine.

EBC do several different types of fast road pads - Greenstuff, Redstuff, Yellowstuff, Bluestuff, etc. So far as I'm aware, Pagid do just the one type of fast road pad. We (GSF) sell EBC Greenstuff & Pagid fast road types of high temp (kevlar compound) pads. Thing to remember about fast road pads is that the faster the spec, the less they work at low temps - round town, etc. Personal recommendation - Pagid or Greenstuff for general use & Redstuff for trackdays.

I have read this thread, with interest - many good suggestions & ideas.

I'd say that's about the "going rate" for a Bosch probe.

Nice one Sam - see you tomorrow ..

AFAIK - Blue_Joe used 0 gauge cable when he fitted his system . :shock:

task, Your's may be an earler version than mine - my sensor had 4 wires at the plug (2 white, 1 black, 1 brown) - 3 wires to the probe (2 white, 1 black) & 1 short wire to earth (brown). The wiring harness on the car had 4 wires - all going into the 4 way plug.

Makes no difference - use thicker cable would be my advice.

You've not removing the x-member. Leave the smaller (middle) bolts in place - do not unscrew these or the engine will drop on your head !! Only undo the 4 outer 17mm bolts & the bumper will slide forwards. Quite safe to move the car without the bumper attached.

All 4 G60 bumper mounting bolts are fairly easily accessible from under the car. Possibly one of the cooling ducts will need to be moved - there's a phillips screw, screwed vertically into the bumper at the front of each duct. The bumper mounting bolts are vertically screwed into the chassis legs. There are what appears to be 3 mounting bolts one each side - 2 large outer ones & 1 small inner one. Unfasten only the large outer bolts - the inner one holds the front x-member/engine in place. From memory, the bumper mounting bolts are 17mm socket size. Use a socket & short extension, this will enable access.

I think there's a mistake on their website - the OE type one is cheaper than the universal version !!

As the power cable will be permanently connected to the battery, I would imagine that 10 gauge will be too thin. AFAIK - amp wiring kits for such a powerful amp are not freely available - or they weren't a couple of years ago when I fitted mine. I went to Maplins & bought all the cables & gold plated terminals seperately. For power/earth cables, I wouldn't use any thinner than 6 gauge wiring. If the cable melts - goodbye car !!

No bubbling or leaking from the header tank at all. The water was leaking from the cambelt side of the crankcase - there's a plate on that side of the block. We didn't have the right seal ring for it when the crankcase was built & foolishly decided to use blue hylomar instead - we're assuming that was where the water leaked from. Not totally convinced that's the only problem. During & after most of water leaked out, top hose was very hard. Had small amount of mayonnaise on inside of oil cap & noticed that an amount of oil had mixed with the water. Oil/water mix could have been instigated when the cyl head was replaced - oil may have got into the water galleries - not totally certain as I wasn't there when the head was fitted. Think we're just gonna have to wait & see - draining & checking the oil will give a better picture.

Chay, You checked the rear calipers aren't binding ?

Just a thought - check your rear brake calipers aren't starting to seize, this will also result in low mpg.

CO2 is Carbon Dioxide. So far as I'm aware c/o = carbon/oxygen. It's the ratio between the two which is measured. Some of the more expensive gas analysers will tell you the exact chemical content of the exhaust emissions. I have no idea exactly which temp sensor is for the cold start system on a 16v, but I suspect yours will be dead.

c/o = exhaust gas emissions. Most garages will have the necessary equipment to check it.