stevemac

If your loosing the inner edges - either the tracking is out or you have too much camber.

The 1.8 was designed to use 4-star petrol. If this petrol was still available, the 1.8 would be quicker. As the 1.8 now has to use unleaded, it looses some of it's original power as a result. The 2.0 was originally designed for unleaded petrol & should be a little quicker. Any road test & performance figures that you may find are likely to be from when the cars were new - hence the 1.8 appears quicker as it would have been tested using 4-star petrol.

The matrix's have been re-designed & are okay to use without the valves - hence the reason that VW have discontinued them. Use the forum "search" feature - fitment has been discussed many times. :wink: Standard, updated matrix (Valeo) can be bought from either VW or GSF.

bristolbaron, They may well have trapped a wire putting the bumper back on.

The only way that you'll get adjustable ride is to fit coilovers. The ones that you get will depend almost entirely on how much you want to spend. The favourite setup seems to be Koni top adjustable struts with H&R springs. You could even go the whole hog & drop it as far as mine . :mrgreen: Just remember - the lower you go, the more uncomfortable the ride.

Welcome to the forum Graham

vwcvr6, Cheers m8 . :wink:

I'm assuming it's the fuse that keeps blowing ? Sounds like a problem with the wiring - possibly going to earth somewhere. Has the front bumper been removed recently - wiring may have been trapped. If not, check the terminals on the back of the front fog bulb holders - wires may be shorting out. I assume he's using the correct size fuse ?

Send a PM to Blue_Joe - he's just bought one for his & yes they do need to be breathable.

If you're keeping the standard suspension - Sachs are about the best.

Without driving the car, it's difficult do diagnose what will be the exact cause of your braking/handling problems. With the age of these cars, none of the suspension components are likely to be in their best condition. Unless you want to have the front camber re-aligned more than once. The best thing to do would be to replace the front wishbones (with bushes), bottom ball joints, anti roll bar bushes, top strut mountings & possibly front shock absorbers. All of these items will be worn & any of them could contribute to the problem that you describe. Also have the brake fluid changed. After changing these - the front camber will need re-aligning (approx £60-£80). If the camber is not re-aligned, the car will handle like a "sack of spuds".

Nice one - cheers Steve . :cheers:

Complete fluid change will take about 1/2 hour. If the brakes weren't bled, you may have a small mount of air in one caliper. This would cause the car to pull to one side under braking, not necessarily from side to side though. If the brakes are on the whole better now than they were previously, it may have highlighted worn suspension components, wishbone bushes, etc.

I'd change the dizzy cap, rotor, spark plugs & spark plug leads. I change the whole lot on mine every year - just to be on the safe side.

Maybe worth fitting a larger powered battery. I fitted a 74Ah to my G60 (AFAIK standard VR one is 62Ah) after experiencing similar problems. Although mine doesn't have the factory immobiliser, it'll now last for 3 weeks with the CAT1 alarm fully armed & still start okay. What may cause you a problem Mark, is on the occasions that you do use the car - do you drive it for long enough to fully recharge the battery ? Uneven idle shouldn't be linked to the battery problem - more likely to be either a faulty coolant temp sensor or dirty ISV. Change the temp sensor (cheap to buy) & soak the ISV in either petrol or carb cleaner.

How long since the new brakes were fitted ? Were the brakes "bled" (possibility of air in the system) ? How long since the car had a complete brake fluid change (should be done every 2 years) ? Are your front tyre pressures even ?

Tell them that you demand a Leon Cupra R - 230bhp as standard on the current ones . :mrgreen:

Looks like your pipework for the carbon can & the valve for it have already been removed. As has been said, that pipe is the fuel tank breather. Most people who remove the carbon can pipework just tuck this pipe into the hole in the inner wing - just behind the air filter. Under no circumstances block this pipe - the fuel tank must be able to breathe.

xnology, There's a full list in the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com

For early (upto mid 1992) C's the extra MFA functions are: MFA switch, position 1: 1: Engine map code. 2: Country code. 3: Speedo drive ratio. 4: Upper RPM limiter. 5: Lower RPM limiter. 6: Deceleration fuel shutof pressure. 7: Segment test. MFA switch, position2: 1: Test sum of programmed bytes 2: Intake manifold vacuum/pressure. (Boost level) 3: Engine RPM. 4: Momentary fuel consumption. 5: Signal from speed sensor. 6: Oil temp. 7: Ambient temp. Info supplied courtesy of http://www.snstuning.com

The guide below is just that - a guide. MFA does not accuractely measure boost levels. How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) :rambo: 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended. Info supplied courtesy of http://www.snstuning.com

Could just be a case of the battery needing charging - new batteries are very rarely supplied fully charged.

The only ones that I've found so far, that I like are the ones fitted to Blue_Joe's car. They came from a company called "Raceland" here in the UK. Unfortunately, there don't seem to be any left - anywhere.

Yeah - Daz sells 'em

Ic3, Welcome to the forum m8 . :wink: