stevemac

I ran a 300ZX twin turbo for a few months (company car 8) ). Car was 12 months old at the time - fast as fcuk but a bit of a handfull in the corners. When I bought my Corrado, it was a straight choice between another one of those or a G60. ZX for speed, G60 for handling - close call & took some consideration before I chose the G60. I suppose the final deciding factor was that the ZX was only good for around 18mpg !!

Maplins sell multimeters for around a fiver, from memory . :shock:

Quite true but my opinions are based on the fact that the axle bushes will only be changed once during the life of most Corrados. OE ones last for approx 10 years, I see nothing to be gained by fitting poly bushes & loosing the "passive steering" effect of the rear axle. Elsewhere on the suspension there are gains to be had from poly bushes, especially with lowered/stiffened suspension (I have them fitted to mine) but not in the rear axle.

Depends entirely where you get it done. Find a garage who know what they're doing & have the right tools. With the right tools, it is possible to do the bushes with the axle still on the car. Also depends how easily your old bushes come out of the axle - they're usually quite tight. Haven't changed them myself but from what others have said, it's around a 3-4 hour job.

Let me know what the c/o pot is set to, when you get chance to check it. Shouldn't really be any lower than approx 500ohms - need a gas analyser to set it accurately though. Adjusted mine out to 750ohms to pass the MOT earlier in the year . :lol: (only just scraped through the emissions) Running around 560ohms at the mo but my setup's different to yours. Basically - the higher the resistance, the leaner the mixture.

Sounds like either your blue temp sensor is knackered or the resistance that your c/o pot is set to may be too low. Change blue temp sensor - cheap as chips & measure the resistance accross the 2 outer terminals of your c/o pot. If you're using larger injectors with the std chip, car will overfuel unless the c/o pot resistance is increased.

I used a MTE one - took my old sensor into our warehouse & found one exactly the same. NGK are usually quite good quality - your air/fuel ratio okay ? If you use the car for short journeys, the plugs will soot-up.

Loza, Be sure to use genuine VW bushes in the axle mounts - poly ones will ruin the car's handling. Fitting them needs a VW special tool - you'll need to find a garage that has one.

That's been "propper phucked"

Finally got around to getting some new wheels . :cheers: Kerbed one of my old front ones the other day, shagged the tyre. Other front tyre was past it's best too so I opted for a new set. They're Team Dynamics "Race 1.2" multispoke with a gloss black finish. 7j x 17" ET15 . :shock: They fit under the arches - just !!

g60greeny, I still haven't got round to fitting it yet . :lol:

Lambda cured all of my running problems - sweet as a nut now . 8)

Cheers for testing my fuel system Eric - one less possible cause of my running problems. New lambda probe fitted today, took my car out for a test run & another one of my water hoses has decided to "expire". :mad: Gonna have to get that sorted ASAP - supposed to be driving to Leeds next weekend.

New lambda probe fitted today . :mrgreen: Car now off the road though - water hose that was just leaking a bit is now pi55ing water out all over the place . :mad:

Stangely enough - Jabba charged me for sorting the lambda wiring too . :shock: Not their wiring that's at fault though - all connections are good

dcuk, Not usually necessary - so long as your current alternator is working properly.

g60griff, 1950 is good boost for a Jabba charger. Tempest called in this afternoon & tested my fuel pressure & pressure retention - no problems at all with either. Current train of thought is that my problem is lambda probe related - fitting a new one in the morning & will post back with results.

catch_twotwo, Depends which type you get - not all 74Ah bateries have the same external dimensions. Kev was fortunate enough for his local GSF to allow him to try several different batteries for size. I work at GSF & just drove my car round to our warehouse & did the same thing. I'll have a look & see if there's a part number on mine tomorrow.

74Ah here too - much better starting & still starts the engine after 3 weeks on my drive, with the alarm fully armed. :shock:

Mine's definitely not boost related - problem also occurs when car is off-boost. Disconnected lambda probe yesterday - car runs much better. No more "holding back" when attempting to accellerate. Power has definitely now returned, front wheels loose all grip when I floor the throttle in 2nd at anything less than 3k rpm. :mrgreen: In addition to the other test's I'll be doing this weekend, I'm going to put the cam timing back to where it should be. My 270 deg cam is quite far advanced at the moment & could be affecting the running.

Sounds like your "idle pin switch" on the back of your throttle body is either dead or not being depressed when your throttle linkage returns to it's resting position.

Naa - if the valves are already there, leave them where they are. Not sure how much the matrixes are but from memory they're not very expensive.

We (GSF) sell the re-designed Valeo heater matrixes - no longer need the bypass valves from the old recall.

The fact that you have similar problems may mean that the head/manifold idea may not be the cause.

My first impression was that the problem was due to my ported & flowed cylinder head. I'm still using the standard exh manifold. My understanding is that the manifold needs to have a wider opening than the cyinder head ports to reduce the possiblity of the exhaust gasses trying to flow back into the head. This would explain some of the problems but not all.