stevemac

Meguiars for me..........

I received a phone call today from the manager of Kynaston Auto Services. One which I think crdo16v (Steve) will be aware of. :wink: I had a good chat with the guy who phoned me (Gary) & I have to say - they seem to know their stuff. They do not appear to be connected in any way with "Expert Technik" as was suggested earlier. Their salesman (also called Steve) is a Corrado enthusiast & the company are constantly on the look out for Corrado's to add to their stock. They offer full VW diagnostic services & also have a bodyshop. They also offer warranties on vehicles that they sell. Their owner (Paul Kynaston) is involved with classic car rallying & seems to be fairly successfull too...

It uses the same fuse as the rear spoiler (No.16).

Tensioner pulley should be changed whenever the belt is changed. 80k is quite a lot for a belt tensioner pulley - I suspect the bearings will be fcuked. If there's an idler pulley that the belt also runs on - change that too.

Sounds like a faulty switch or possibly a bad connection

billinjahg60, I have a spare set of std G60 injectors, if you need them ?

What happened to the hair then Andy ?? ....... :lol:

Leaking inlet manifold gasket ?? The last 3 G60's that I've seen have had loose inlet maniolds - they're mounted by 6 allen screws. Vacuum leak - check condition of vacuum hoses, including the one from the throttle body to the ECU (must be exactly 1m long).

Is the switch definitely a good one ?

Rear bearing failure is quite common. It's extremely unlikely to be siezed rear calipers - unless your handbrake isn't working properly.. :wink:

Could also be that the vacuum pipe into the back of it is leaking or damaged.

The crank bolt & washer are from a MK1 Golf GTi (DX engine)

I have a spare G60 cylinder head - if you're gonna rebuild your existing set-up.

Sounds like a 20VT conversion is definitely on the cards then.... :wink:

RACK, Just use the DX one - that's what I'm doing. Just remember to get the large washer that goes with it.

Is it the display that's not working, or a problem with the information that's displayed ?

Jack-up the rear wheels & spin them slowly by hand. You should be able to feel if there's a damaged bearing.

Looks nice & clean m8.. 8)

On normally aspirated engines, CAT bypass pipes are a complete waste of time. They reduce the necessary exhaust back-pressure that normally aspirated engines need to run properly. Only force inducted (turbo/supercharger) cars benefit from this mod. Even then, only when the is set up correctly. My advice would be to spend your money on someting else instead. :wink:

Laser alignment cost me £80, 3 months ago. That also included fitting a new driver's side tie rod too.. :shock: Had it done at a VW specialist here in Birmingham. First class job.. :wink:

Too much advance m8. Re-set it to 6 degrees advance, run it for a while & if the pinking stops, set it to 7 degrees. If it pinks at 7 degrees, put it back to 6.

Very unlikely, although it is possible, that your complete driveshaft will need replacing. Usually common practice just to replace the inner & outer CV joints. If your local garage are used to working on French cars - this is why they have suggested a full shaft - CV joints are integral to the shaft on French cars. Only reason for changing Corrado driveshafts is either when they're bent or cracked. Either of these reasons would require immediate driveshaft replacement.

For G60 Corrado’s the extra MFA functions are: MFA switch, position 1: 1: Engine map code. 2: Country code. 3: Speedo drive ratio. 4: Upper RPM limiter. 5: Lower RPM limiter. 6: Deceleration fuel shutof pressure. 7: Segment test. MFA switch, position2: 1: Test sum of programmed bytes 2: Intake manifold vacuum/pressure. (Boost as per conversion table) 3: Engine RPM. 4: Momentary fuel consumption. 5: Signal from speed sensor. 6: Oil temp. 7: Ambient temp.

How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) :rambo: 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended

I love a happy ending........... :D