stevemac

Like Andi says - your tax expires tomorrow :silly:

From memory, TomB has a 16v Sorry to hear about your accident Tom & glad you're all okay.

skimask, - have you fitted the correct springs for your car ? - you may have been sent the wrong springs !! Any new springs will take a day or so to settle - go for a drive on some bumpy roads to get them settled properly. If the car's still too high after a couple of days then you have the wrong springs. The 1.8-16v is the lightest of all the Corados & may sit a little high unless you fit springs specifically designed for this vehicle

Yes it will physically fit but the springs will not be strong enough as the Corrado is a heavier car.

PhatVR6, Cheers geezer - I'll be changing mine soon 8)

VW price was reduced earlier this year :wink:

Yuk :pukeright:

Hope you get it sorted Ian - you ain't having much luck at the mo. Hopefully you'll just have a badly knackered cam follower/tappet although sounds more like camshaft problems, from what you describe :( How much headwork (bearings, valves, etc) did you have done ??

I feel a group buy coming on... RSR outlet will be coming from Darren (G-Werks) & I'm looking into having some Golf G60 intercoolers made by one of our (GS&F) suppliers 8)

Agreed - I much prefer 17's 8)

Could be either but as the wipers are fairly new I'd say your linkages are worn/loose.

I'll be sticking a RSR outlet & Golf G60 intercooler on later this year :wink:

A set of those going on my shopping list soon 8)

My Lupo wipers have been on for 18 months now & still work far better than the useless excuses that the car came with :wink:

VR's definitely need shorter dampers, even with 40mm lowering springs IMO. The damper tubes are too long for shorter springs & you'd be riding very close to or even resting on the bumpstops. However, G60 owners are okay - G60 standard front dampers are already about 2" shorter than VR ones & will take lowering springs. The standard damper tubes are the same height as the shortened dampers, it's just the "plunger" part which is a different length.

Do the tyres rub on the chassis on full lock ?? Now I've finally sorted my suspension out, I'm replacing my 7x17's (ET37) with ET25's later this year 8)

Head office where I work is only 2 junctions up the M6 (jn5) from Sandburn's

Supercharged, kevhaywire, you called :D Where does your switch fit & what are your phone numbers ?? I'll have a look 1st thing in the morning & give you a call 8)

The stuff we sell is genuine VW G12+ (imported from Germany)

Your local branch of GS&F will have G12+ in stock :wink:

Job was done for Blue_Joe here on the forum - so far as I'm aware he's very happy with the results. Doing same job to mine at the moment - the old bj's are really loose so the new stuff should tighten up the front suspension/steering a fair amount.

There's a BIG clue in my "sig" as to where I might have got the parts from :wink: Job took all day as I fitted a full poly suspension bush kit & some other stuff at the same time.

Did a pair of lower ball joints at the weekend. Had some new lower suspension arms & CV boots to fit as well so I removed the whole hub assy from the car. Ball joint pinch bolt shouldn't be too difficult to remove. The pinch bolt was siezed solid in the hub assy so I removed the nut & used a claw hammer to lever the hub open around the bolt. I put a socket & 2ft bar onto the bolt to loosen it before tapping it out with a hammer. The difficult part was getting the lower ball jounts out of the hub assy. The joints sit too far back into the hub to use my ball joint splitter. I ended up beating the old joints out with a big hammer. There was no way I'd have been able to remove the lower ball joints without removing the whole hub assy from the car first !!

n8047035, renew the seal rings soon, the old ones may start to leak. Bad idling - renew the ECU vacuum hose (approx £6), new pipe must be exactly 1m long. If no improvement is seen, have your timing reset - should be set to 6 degrees BTDC. Can often get away with 7 degrees BTDC if using Optimax petrol. Timing must be set with the blue temp sensor disconnected & engine revving at 2500rpm. Bad MPG - may or may not be related to the bad idling issue. When was your charger last rebuilt ?? Original question about Lambda probe - easiest way to check it is to unplug it & drive the car with it disconnected. No difference = dead sensor, if it makes a difference then the sensor's okay.

IMO - unless there is a specific requirement for a pipe to be flexible (i.e. to allow movement of the joined items), solid pipe is always better. What do you think Darren ??