Neil VR6

How will bending the arms alter the force being appplied by the spring which forces the wiper onto the screen though? Do you mean bend the wiper arm or bend the actual blades slightly?

I bought some Lupo wipers from VAG parts and the passenger one doesn't touch the screen in the centre of the blade. The driver's side one is fine though. Any ideas?

I forgot Evo had one... http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/evolong ... _v8_r.html

Wow - I think you got the best deal there. If only the first owner knew what you paid for it! That would make an ace Le Mans trolley. Is it a blown 4.2 V8?

Awesome, love it - a rocket powered gentleman's club. I bet you can pick them up for very reasonable money nowadays. EDIT - If you stick some IMG tags around your links you can probably put the actual images up:

Make sure you used proper fuel hose clamps and not jubilee clips. The proper jobs clamp the hose on with a more even pressure around the circumference of the hose.

Yes but it's old and has done 128K miles so I kind of expect it really. My most reliable car was my old Pug 205 TD which I did 1000m a month in when I commuted more.

well there not french, so thats gotta be a big plus Not really - the R26 R or whatever it's called made the final cut against the supercars in Evo 'eCOTY'. It's a smashing car! I bet Megane sunroofs are better than Corrado ones too :lol:

I run 5mm spaces with my coilovers. Make sure you get hubcentric ones or taking the wheel on and off is a complete nightmare!

I'd get an LSD and gearbox rebuild plus tweaks to the existing engine. Power is nothing without control!

I use an independent VW garage in T Wells that recently sorted out my poorly VR. Let me know if you want the details

You'd be better off putting your money on fire.

The only real way of telling accurately is to brim the tank, set the trip and then drive for 200-300 miles, brim the tank again, make a note of how much you put in the tank and do the maths. My trip up to the Lakes last week saw me getting 28.8 mpg (The MFA suggested 30-31). The car was 2 up with lots of luggage so I didn't think that was too bad. I only use super unleaded too.

Mine are 6000s too although the light isn't blue at all (as you can see). The guys said you can go for 8000s and upwards but the light goes purple and there's no need. Mine were about £160 for the kit

The garage fitted them so I didn't get a good look. Can you tell by looking through the lens?

It's a conspiracy. You're all lying. I've had 2 Corrados now and I never knew that. If only the f***ing thing would idle properly I'd be onto a winner

Here's a pic of mine on dipped: It's not a great pic but it gives you an idea EDIT - It passed its MOT fine too

Ha! I will get some pics up of the beam pattern soon but I'm getting married on Saturday so I'm a bit pre-occupied at the moment!

Kev, you couldn't have LHD ones could you? Your 'up and down' dip could be fine but they might point right? Will - I don't mate - I'm sure they'd know at Alldub so you could give them a call (mine's a grey VR and I had them fitted about 2 months ago)

I think the use of lead is more common in classic car restoration when you've got lots of flowing panels joining one another. My old man's '62 Alfa had its panel all leaded and the garage had to get some old fella in to do it

I use HIDs fitted to standard lenses and have found the results to be far better than standard or uprated looms (I had an original H100VW loom in my old G60). High beam now consists of HID plus the centre H3s which I uprated to different bulbs (non-HID). I have never been flashed (ooer) when using dipped beam so in my instance this is not an issue at all. The beam pattern is exactly the same as before but with much more light. Cut off isn't that sharp when compared to new cars with OE HIDs but the net result of having fitted them is definitely positive. In terms of using the standard wiring I understand that once they're running, HIDs actually draw less current that conventional bulbs. Going from bone stock to HID I've noticed that my headlamp switch on the dash runs a lot cooler so it must be drawing less current. I'd imagine HIDs would work much better in InPro projector jobbies but I'm not keen on how they look when the lights are off. Mine were fitted by AllDub tuning (http://alldubtuning.co.uk/) and if you're local to me you're welcome to see what they look like :) The acid test was my fiance

You might want to try calling them as they might be able to do something for you. I've managed to persuade the AA before when I had a similar issue with them.

:wave: I work for AXA and get very cheap breakdown including European recovery. I've used them twice and they've been fine. You can also get this rate as 'friends & family': Vehicles under 11 years old £45 Vehicles 11-16 years old £50 The cover includes: > Roadside assistance and repairs anywhere in the UK > Assistance and recovery at your home > National recovery to home or onward destination > European cover for unlimited trips to mainland Europe and Eire AXA Assistance, experts in motor breakdown providing you with: > Comprehensive breakdown cover for your vehicle > A vast network of vetted and approved recovery operators > Specialist motorbike recovery vehicles > 24-hour 0800 breakdown hotline > Average response time of just 40 minutes > 24 hours a day, 365 days of a year Call 01737 815158, quoting the reference code: AXAINSFF01. To make a claim, both employees and friends and family need to call 0800 0851550, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

I so would have gone for the 166. Momo leather, gorgeous interior, THAT engine and they're pretty rare too.

JMR did a rear Lupo cmnversion on mine which involved cutting the std arm slightly and welding the Lupo arm on.