Neil VR6

The CA18DET in the S13 is a good engine but they suffer from weak bottom ends which can be problematic on higher mileage and/or tuned cars. They're ace cars the S13's but the fact that they're so cheap means loads of Max Powers pikeys can pick them up cheap and tune them badly. They also have a tendancy to rot. Perhaps the ebst of the bunch is the Sil80, an S13 with a different front and the SR20DET lump from the S14. The 2 litre is much stronger and more tunable. The S14 came with a non-roller bearing T28 whereas the S15 (JDM only) came with 360 thrust bearings so it spooled up much quicker. sil80: http://us1.webpublications.com.au/stati ... 36_3mg.jpg I liked my S14A but it wasn't a car which I looked back at when I got out of it whereas I'd always glance back at the Corrado after a drive.

I had one (S14A Touring) after the G60 and it was a very good car. Very comfortable, nice and quick, well spec'd and did 30mpg. It didn't have the soul that the G60 had but it's got everyting in the right place (RWD, LSD, turbo, tunability). The body panels are paper thin though and the interior is very 90's Jap. I.e swathes of black plastic. It was the perfect car to go down to Le Mans in though, esp. with air con. Here she is on the start/finish straight after the race:

Sounds good Andy, get some pics up when all yer shiny bits have arrived and been fitted!

If they're the £1 resistor things which claims to add 15bhp or something (can't see ebay at work) you'd be better of getting a load of your hard earned money and putting it on fire. ;)

"Sounds" probably being the operative word ;) Most of it's based on experience and what happened to my G60! :D Have a nice weekend :drinking:

I think there are lots of forum members around the country with "pool" cats that get passed around at MOT time ;)

My solid front engine mount was fine. The bar the engine mount bolts to is actually rubber mounted to the chassis anyway so it's not like having a truly solid front mount. I'd look out for good charger history and personally wouldn't get a charger with a 65mm pulley. Put it this way, the service interval for a blower with a 68mm pulley is 40K miles. The service interval for a charger with a 65mm pulley is 20K miles. Read into that what you will. I know many will disagree but at £800 a pop, you don't want to be shelling out for a new charger. If you like a car with a Jabba charger, budget in for it to be cracked open by someone who knows what they're doing (G-Werks or JMR) as they're famous for inconsistent porting and not replacing the exhaust end oil seals. I'd look out for a sound shell above all. Engine and suspension are generally easily replaced as they're bolt on but bodywork is more costly to rectify. Walk away if you see rust, Corrado's were very well built in their day and rust shouldn't be an issue. Also, body parts are quite pricey, especially if you go VAG. As you know, reds tend to fade but being a VW enthusiast anyway you probably know that! Common problems with Corrados are as follows: > Rear beam bushes go hard and will need replacing if this hasn't been done recently. (with VAG item, not poly cr@p) > Sunroofs can fail as the mechanisn is quite delicate (they weren't actually made by VW). Too much grease is a bad thing with 'Rado sunroofs. > Wing mount intercoolers can leak as they're stuck right down in front of the wheel arch and attract lots of salt and grime. They also have plastic end "tanks" which can leak. > The spoilers will often only work on the button- more often that not it's down to stereo wiring. These cars are likley to have been through a few owners by now, each fitting their own stereos so the wiring can often be a bit of a snakes wedding. > Wiring on 15 year old cars can be a bit dodgy with moisture working its way up insulation. Check all electrics. > Pay attention to the gearbox too and make sure shifts are smooth. The G60's cable change is hardly the last word in precision but it shouldn't be difficult to locate gears. The cables can go out of kilter making shifting tricky but this can be solved by using a special VAG tool to realign it all. Some and not all G60 'boxes were fitted with a shift weight, this drastically improved shift quality. They like clutches too so check if it's been replaced, preferably with a VR clutch. > The 8v engine is damn strong, all it needs is regular oil changes and it's likley to be OK. Bear in mind the frequency of previous oil changes as the blower shares its oil supply with the engine so long intervals will accelerate supercharger wear. Obviously cambelt interval is 60K like most cars and the tensioner should be replaced at the same time. > G60's run hot so if you're looking at a tweaked one an aftermarket oil cooler shows a careful owner. The standard oil "cooler" is complete c0ck and can corrode to such an extent that the water jacket fails and causes coolant and oil to mix which is a Bad Thing. Signs of this starting to happen are a white crusty residue where the oil filter bolts on. (water escaping and exaporating quickly) > Rear calipers sieze frequently and are best replaced with Mk 3 or 4 Golf GTi calipers which bolt straight on. A sign of this is a weak handbrake. > When driving the car make sure the car pulls strongly from low revs cleanly thorughout the rev range. It runs out of puff at about 5-5.5K RPM as the head struggles to flow at those revs but it should pull in a typically supercharger-esqu linear fashion. Test the boost using this guide (taken from somewhere on this forum): How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) Rambo 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu Smile Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended. Can't think of anything esle :)

I think Audi marketing strategy is bang on. Take a look at the R8 mini site, it's quite something.

Worst thing? "The gearbox has gone and you need a new clutch and a new CV joint"

I'd try them both but on the face of it I'd take the Saab because it's faster and the ride might be better to live with every day because it's got smaller wheels.

Looks Ok but the grill needs to be down-sized a bit in my opinion. It could run the risk of looking all unbalanced and botched like the BM 3 series Compact.

Ditto. Glad his final days were around his family. A ride out in your dream car and a pint of best; it doesn't get much better than that :wink:

Judging by the mods you've got you might want to consider a ported downpipe and ported exhaust manifold or a stainless manifold. That'll give you a load of low down torque. andy554 had this done and made a slug more grunt. Also I'd imagine you'd benefit from an oil cooler. At the moment, I'm surprised you need red top injectors. I had a similar spec to you with a Newman 268/272 cam and when setting it up the wideband showed that the greens were holding up fine.

The thing about pulleys smaller than 68mm is that you're runing the charger outside it's comfort zone. The service interval for a 68mm pulley is 40K miles. This is halved when you go to a 65mm pulley!

ignore-site crashed! 8)

ignore-site crashed! 8)

You'd be better off increasing your engine's ability to use the boost which is currently surplus (i.e the reading on your boost gauge). Things like flowed heads, exhaust manifolds and ported TB's will allow the engine to breathe more easily and are less stress on the engine than showing more air at higher pressure into it. I seem to recall Darren telling me about an engine he saw (8v G60) which registered 0 psi boost such was the efficiency of the head.

Rims look fat. Such a streeeeeetch! Doesn't it tramline on those tyres? EDIT: Probably not I suppose as the rubber's actually not all that wide

Ask oilman. They're a waste of money. Just use the VAG recommended oil and change it at regular intervals and you'll be fine. If you want to splash out a bit more on oil, ask that fella above and he can recommend something to fit your engine. I always used the recommended Synta Silver in my G60 and it was only £15 for 4 litres from the dealer. Bargain!

Good tip! If it gets your VR as shiney as it is in your pic then it must be OK. THe Blackberry looks awesome with a deep shine like that. Further to what I said before the other reason I use the Onyx wax is that the shine literally lasts for about 6 months.

I've got the Megs 3 stage and it's OK. The Polish (Step 2) is the best bit IMO. The whole lot's under £25 so it's pretty damn cheap. I find that if the paints a little dull some Poor Boys SSR2 (£8.99) helps as it's very slightly abrasive. I do this in place of the paint cleaner. I there are better waxes out there. Swissol Onyx is good but you need warm/hot bodywork for the wax to "go off" properly.

I got the website from your spiel at the bottom of your posts :lol!:

Those vids make me miss my old G60 (which had no snorkel and an additional air feed from the brake duct) :) EDIT: Just been to your website (http://www.volksdevil.com/corrado%20g60.htm) and those shift lights are awesome!

I've found that more extreme set ups accentuate this camber based "veering". For instance my 205 with high profile tyres and literally metres of suspension travel tracks pretty much straight. However, my Corrado and more so with my 200SX which was lowered on rose jointed coilvers was quite bad for wandering. It seems that the less pliancy there is in the suspension, the more susceptible it is to wandering. It can wander due to other things if the car is 100% on the jig. Worn bushes will still allow a 100% alignment set up but will only manifest their adverse affects on a car which is moving, steering, going over bumps etc.

Worn bushes can accentuate this. The Rado's rear bushes are renound for messing up handling when they're worn. A faulty damper played havoc with my handling on my G before I sorted it. Tyre pressure-wise set up the pressures so they're the same left to right. Even if they're the wrong pressures front to back you should still eliminate that from the equation. Have a search for the correct pressures for 205/40's; I'd suggest 34 front 32 rear as a starting point.