Neil VR6

I hate wiring! I had a look at mine yesterday. I removed the h/u first and there isn't a blue/white wire in the VAG bit of the loom. There is on the Alpine/Autoleads adaptor ISO but not in the original bit. Then I looked at the fuse box. There are 3 blue/white wires plugged into a little "module" on top of the fuse box which were present and correct which I am led to believe are part of the spoiler. There were also some random different coloured wires with plugs that weren't attached to anything. I assume these were for optional extras that weren't fitted or due to differences in G60 specs between countries? I'm unwilling to start snipping wires as I have no idea what anything does! I think I need to take it to a car electrician. What next?

I went to the Pod the other for the first time and got a 16.03. I had 4 runs and my first was the best. On one of the runs I really struggled with wheelspin. The disappointment with your time is probably not related to mods not working as you would expect them to. The G60 has such short gears that wheelspin is difficult to control. Also, the surface is super slick so with a bit more power you may find it even harder to get a decent time. It's always a bit dodgy to allocate a bhp gain to certain mods as mods will only benefit you if the car is properly set up so they work together. eg no point in having a FMIC if you can't fuel it properly. Perhaps you would benefit from a rolling road set up to ensure you are getting the power you think you are? Also, smaller wheels with more power will accentuate any wheelspin you previously got. Maybe you weren't "in the zone" ;)

My Miltek's perfect. 16VG60 fitted it and there are no bangs rattles or anything. martyjmcflyjnr: I think you should take these issues up like John said with the fitter. Putting up flippant posts entitled "Milltek is Crap" can do a lot to harm the credibility and good-will that Milltek tries so hard to achieve. Not to mention the potential harm to suppliers of these exhausts when you go off on one. There are also plenty of other forum users who own Milteks and are satisfied with them.

Right, so the blue/white one should just be hanging and not connected when an aftermarket h/u is fitted?

Cheers Dinkus. Where can I find the bit's that fried then? Are they a Maplin bit or a VAG bit?

I'm going to try to tackle this problem on my day off this Friday! Are these wires behind the fuse box or behind the stereo? My car is a '91 G60 so would this have had the speed sensitive attenuator thingy? The spoiler did work when I fitted my Alpine h/u just after I bought the car. However, when I took it in to have the rest of the ICE fitted it stopped working. I was assured by the (reputable) fitters that they wouldn't have spliced into a random wire for the remote. Where should I look first as my patience tends to wear thin with electrical gremlins!

That's what I've got too; poly front & VAG rear!

As you live in West Sussex why don't you take it to G-Werks or JMR, both are Corrado experts? I think G-Werks tend to specialise in G-Lader cars but it would be worth giving them both a call? You're spoilt for choice in West Sussex!

Looks wicked :) Sadly that Max Power car was full of lovely Genesis ICE :(

Inca Blue (I think) early type grill nr Bluewater on Saturday at about lunch time!

Doh! Not that you spend much time over a ton. Of course not officer! :lol:

My winscreen wipers seems a bit "laboured" when they're on. When travelling at speed on the motorway the upstroke seems fine as the wind helps but the downstroke is much slower. They're Lupo wipers although the problem existed with the rubbish std ones. Could this be due to worn bushes, lack of lubrication or is the motor a bit tired (after 113,000 miles)? Cheers

16VG60 (aka John from JMR racing) runs a 16VG60 (unsurprisingly :)) and it's a bit pokey from what I hear!

Yup, na is all about pressure waves and multiples of certain lengths and stuff I have nooo idea about! This is quite a good article though relating to Saxo exhaust tuning but the same applies to any na car: Exhaust Manifolds Regarding manifolds many things are said about the merits of 4-2-1 as compared to 4-1 as to the performance properties each has. The basic facts are that a 4-2-1 will give more low down power at the expense of a bit of top end and the 4-1 is the opposite, slightly less bottom end but more top. The problem for someone choosing which manifold to buy are not as simple as this, as the above comments are based on the manifold being built to set physics principals, that do not change, no matter who has built it. The principals are too complex to go into fully, so below are the basics. When you burn the fuel and it escapes from the exhaust valve is has a pressure wave, this wave has energy and it can be harnessed to suck more gas than normal from the cylinder, this is the reason for performance manifolds. These waves have a natural harmonics and pulses and you have to get these right to make them do their job. To their job the exhaust pipe diameter has to be correct and more importantly the length of the pipes between joints. To be correct, the length of the exhaust manifold before the gasses from the 4 cylinders come together should be about 32 to 34 inches from the head flange, assuming it is a 4-1 manifold. If it is a 4-2-1 manifold the first 2 pipes should join at between 16 to 17 inches, this is called the primary length, the next 2, the secondary pipes are the same length. The distance to the first silencer or Cat, should be the same distance away from the place the pipes all join. So why are these distances so critical? The pulses of gas move down the pipe until there is a junction and then reverberate back up to the back of the valve, if these lengths are correct the wave pattern exerts a suction behind the valve head. If these lengths are wrong the pressure wave gets distorted and so looses it’s suction power and in some cases it can actually be worse than the standard manifold, as the waves clash against each other ruling out any suction and even providing positive pressure to hold the gas in the cylinder. I know many will say, how is this possible, the standard manifold is not anything like the lengths you have quoted. Yes, quite true, here comes a bit of the technical stuff again. The harmonics of the gas and pipe lengths are to do with multiples and divisions of these lengths stated. Lets take 32 inches as the correct length. If you made a manifold that the 4 pipes joined at 64 inches, no problem, if you made one that they joined at 16 or 8 no problem. If the first silencer was 8 or 16 or 32 or 64 inches from where the 4 pipes join together, no problem. Therefore the standard exhaust manifold will have been designed by the manufacturers to coincide with one of these lengths, even though it does look crap. OK, so where is the problem. The problem is that a lot of exhaust manifold manufacturers do not follow these rules often due to space limitations under the bonnet or for ease of manufacture due to complicated bends and junctions, this being particularly applicable to 4-2-1 units. So yes on paper a 4-2-1 should give you more bottom end power but if it is not built to the correct lengths it will not and may even be worse than the standard one. A particular car that was built that no one could really improve on the standard manifold was the 205 MI16. It was made of course cast iron but was worked perfectly. One reason I am mentioning all this is that some people were contacting us saying a manifold was available for the Saxo that was stainless steel and cheaper than our mild steel one. I rang the company up to ask details and, yes they could supply it cheaper but only if I bought 10 at one time, so the price problem disappeared. I then went on to ask technical specification as it was a 4-2-1, when given the dimensions of the lengths of pipes, I had to laugh, there was no way this manifold could work. Exhaust Systems The same problems regarding pipe sizes and lengths apply to exhaust systems, this is why all manufacturers (until Citroen started with VTR) have the Cat or before Cat’s came into being, had an expansion box or silencer just about 3 feet away from the manifold (or a multiple distance of same). So taking off your first silencer and putting in a straight pipe is unlikely to do anything for performance, unless you happen to be lucky that the rear silencer position just so happens to be the correct length away. This is most unlikely as rear silencers are fitted anywhere that room allows. So what about taking off the cat from under the car, the car goes a lot better without it, yes, it does but this is due to getting rid of the restrictions of the Cat, nothing to do with pipe lengths and gas harmonics. So whilst taking off the cat is good it is not as good as taking it off and replacing it with an expansion box in the same place. This is why our BTB exhaust system is so good, not only is it massive bore all the way down to prevent back pressure but it also has an expansion box in place of the Cat. I know this system is expensive in comparison to many others but none has such a big bore, and none have an expansion box, plus you have to buy a De-cat pipe to make fair comparison to price.

Even if you get a larger bore "sports" exhaust, unless you get a decat, downpipe and port your manifold you're not going to realise much gain. The minute you upgrade from the CAT back these 3 parts become the weak link. Once the whole of the exhaust system from the engine back is replaced, then you'll see noticable gains. I would imagine the gains would be greater on a G60 if you've had it chipped and pulley'd and the sc is blowing that bit harder.

Nice and subtle! :)

John of JMR in West Sussex did mine with a load of other work but in isolation I think they're about £140. pm him (16VG60) for more details. Alternatively give him a buzz on 07974 020031 after 5pm.

The MFA isn't gospel and is thrown out if you do any mods as well. However, my slightly breathed on G60 does about 10mpg round town but will reach the heady heights of about 22mpg on a motorway run. It is running a Jabba chip though which I am led to believe runs a bit rich. Also, the fact it's only a 12 gallon tank means I only get about 200 miles from a tank! Not exactly a tree huggers car! :D

Have a look on http://www.blackcircles.com or http://www.mytyres.co.uk. See what premium brands are cheap. I got some Toyo Proxes delivered for £32 a corner a few months back for my G60. I couldn't believe how cheap they were. Tyre places will charge ca. £10 a corner to fit and balance. The Toyo's seem to perform very well but I wouldn't know about any other "performance" tyres. I had some Dunlop SP9000's on my old car and they were good though

Try search, this arguement will run and run!

Awesome collection, love the Oak Green Mk 2!

Mine was £3500 with 112,000 on the clock. Bide your time and find a good one I'd say

I towed my mate who broke down and it was very scary. Still, with a rigid bar rather than a bit of rope I'm sure it would be a lot better!

Shame they never made the RS 4WD or that would have been a real weapon. The RS's LSD is meant to make the front squirm really badly over poor roads isn't it?

They're very nice to drive, better than than the Mk4 Golf which was their main competitor. The Zetec engines are nice as well. Shame there weren't any nice hot ones though