kerrinmay

Top of dipstick snapped off so checked with dealers but this is now discontinued. Short of striking lucky on eBay with secondhand part, where can I get a replacement?

Need part number for black front vw badge. Someone swiped mine over the weekend and dealer offers no help to determine correct part. I know that the black vw badge for front grill isn't from a Corrado but from another model. Any assistance with either triggering my memory as to which vw model these are from or a part number would be most appreciated. Guess the second question would be are these even still available?

Recently had car serviced and timing belt changed. Now problems with starting and idling. When I start the car it fires normally, but when revs drop to idle they drop all the way and it dies. After starting I have to dip the throttle to keep the revs up until eventually it will idle. Also seems a bit 'jumpy' at low revs. Could this be some kind of sensor that needs replacing or did they mess something up at the garage?

Any other thoughts on this? Should I just replace the handbrake switch? Interestingly when I was sat idling yesterday (handbrake off) the light was on constant, and when I went to accelerate away it went out and then went back to the use intermittant flashing.

Thanks for the advice, I haven't tried bridging the contacts, however when the sensor was unplugged it was still intermittant flashing rather than anything constant.

What other possibilities are there for the hand brake light flashing? Is it just the brake fluid level and the handbrake switch? Checked my level and also unplugged the sensor from top of reservoir but still flashes! It I know the only other possibility is the handbrake switch then I'll change it, but wanted to check if any other possibilities.

Turned out to be the cable from driver's door lock, it was getting caught when the window was opened...seems to have caught the wires resulting in the short.

Unplugged the passenger side vacuum module this morning because I had suspected that side...seemed ok for a while but then blew the fuse again. Should I try unplugging the driver's side? What I'd really like to do is isolote the alarm from this because that's been a bit intermittent for ages and I do suspect that's the problem because the remote central locking isn't functioning. Any idea how it might be wired in? It's an aftermarket Foxguard. Ideally I'd like to find a separate fuse for it or something...any ideas?

Did you get the new vacuum module from the dealer? If yes, do you mind sharing how much it set you back?

Have similar problem with mine. Yesterday I used the key in passenger door to lock and close both windows because my alarm / remote central locking doesn't support closure of the windows. Following that the remote central locking stopped working (although central locking with the key was still working at that time) and then the fuse blew that resulted in no central locking at all or power windows. If I replace the fuse it works for a time (although still no remote central locking) until the fuse blows again. Should I try unplugging the vacuum units also?

All fixed :D The spindle on the starter seemed to have bound with whatever it seats in, thus causing the engine not to turn. Also no sign of the copper bush(?) that went round the old spindle. Took quite a bit of banging, wriggling, prying etc to get the old starter off. New starter fitted and now starts beautifully! Never started so well and also never sounded so good on starting either. In the 6 years that I've had her, she's always sounded horrible at start-up like some aged rough old car...but now sounds lovely! Hope I don't wear out the new starter as will want to keep starting up to hear that lovely sound!

Just been browsing the internet, and wondering whether the bendix is jammed, thus not allowing the engine to turn over? Will try and get the starter motor out later and hope it's nothing more serious than that...if it's not the starter, am I looking at a new engine if it's locked up? :(

Been having problems with the starter motor and on Wednesday wouldn't turn over at all so called out breakdown company. Finally got it started by rocking the car in gear...the guy said that the starter had locked in. Been fine since then until today and same happened, however this time the breakdown guy couldn't release it and said that the engine was locked up and not sure if it related to the starter? Got a new starter in the boot ready to replace...any thoughts on whether this could be the starter causing the lock-up? Today's breakdown guy said he had a similar incident with a Fiat Cinquecento, but normally you can still turn the engine...not usual for the starter to lock it up.

Thanks for the advice. Just rang the dealers and they want £182.04 (inc vat) for a new starter, whereas GSF want £75.20 (inc vat) plus surcharge of £17.50 as it's an exchange. The GSF one is apparently a Franzen. I also tried my local motor factors and they are £76.38 (inc vat) plus surcharge/exchange. I was hoping that the VW one was only going to be a bit more, but can't really justify double the cost.

Are there any thoughts on brand/supplier of starter motors for a 2.0 16v? Should I go to VW. GSF, get a bosch or a lucas or something else? Any thoughts would be appreciated, plus expected pricing. Also, is it a fairly easy job to replace the starter motor? Or am I best leaving this to a garage to do?

And less going to landfill :D

I have heater controls illumination :D Very simple job...used bulb as previously mentioned (WQ13P - £1.29) from Maplins and wasn't even any need to solder...everything a push fit. That said, the bulb isn't quite as big as the size of the original so doesn't fit quite as snugly in the holder, however once the pins are pushed back in it doesn't really move about. Haven't been able to test in the pitch dark yet but it's definately illuminating. As previously mentioned, I know that it was never all that bright originally, and the bulb from Maplins is only 0.96w so I could probably improve on that, however for now I think it's a job well done. Don't even really need to glue the panel back together because I was able to get away with only partially detaching the two pieces. Certainly a job that I'd recommend...much more satisfying than throwing away my old panel and replacing.

Yes I remember it was pretty dire before...well just so long as I can see the controls well enough that I can slide the correct slider in the dark then I'll be pleased!

Anyone advise what wattage bulb I should be looking at? Just realised that the one from Maplins is only 0.96w so not sure if this will be bright enough. Anyway I'll try and get one for now and give it a go.

Thanks for all the advice. It was actually a very easy job to take the panel apart. I even didn't have to completely dismantel it to get the old bulb and holder out. With regards to separating the white piece from the black, I was able to carefully 'crack' it apart as it really wasn't overly stuck together, and that said I've managed to leave it partially still adhered and just carefully twist out the part where the bulb sits and then pop it out. Interestingly I don't think that soldering is even going to be required by looking at the way the bulb is currently connected to the two prongs. There seems to be a small slit in the holder at right angles to the slot where the prongs push in, and the wires seem to feed through to this small slit and then the prongs just push back in and make contact with the wires. Found a bulb that looks to be suitable in the Maplin catalogue so will go and pick one up at the weekend and see how I get on - FYI the code is WQ13P, however I'll post back once I have one to confirm if it was suitable and did the job.

Thanks. I'll try and take a look later.

Thanks for the advice. Do I actually have to 'cut' the tabs with the knife (which would result in me needing to glue the thing back together afterwards), or is it just a prising open job? Just wondering if I can open it up to take a look, work out what bulb to get, put it back together and then take apart again once I've got the bulb? And one final question at this point, is there just one bulb in there?

Anyone have any instructions on how I could take the panel apart and solder in a new bulb or bulbs? Pics would be very welcome plus the type of bulb that I would need. I rang the dealers a couple of weeks ago and the panel is now discontinued, so my only options are to find a second-hand panel with the illumination still working or to take mine apart and solder in a new bulb.

Slightly OT but I spotted you on the roundabout at the top of Commercial Rd this morning. I have a complete moonroof, motor and loom available for £80 if you get stuck. Cheers for the offer re: the moonroof. I'll get back to you on that if I decide to take that route. Re: being spotted, were you in your C? I'm normally on the look-out but didn't notice you.

Thanks for the advice. With regards to the cost of parts, I was quoted (from the dealers) £69.70 + VAT for the cable assembly just for one side. Should there be some kind of kit available that provides the parts for both sides? Any reference number/code etc would be appreciated so that I can ask for the right thing. This seems quite expensive just for the one side, and although only the left side had broken, I wouldn't really want to go to the trouble of fixing this only to have the right side break later on, so may as well do both. I did consider a moonroof, but I really do prefer the body coloured metal sunroof, so unless it will be considerably less expensive (i.e. I can get a complete moonroof for say £100, then I think I'll aim to fix what I've got.