VEEDUBBED

fireing order=1342.

Don't worry about fuel being under pressure unless you've turned on the ign. and primed the system. When you disconnect the injectors a bit of fuel will spill out so just bung some old rags under the injectors. Watch out when you get different injectors,always remember that digifart1 needs high imp. injectors,fit low imp 1's and the ECU's injector drivers will fry instantly,how do i know?...

No,it's the timing gear end,no.4 cyl is at the flw. end.

Probably rock hard and brittle,i would'nt bother with the stealers for the 'O'-rings,places like burlen fuel components should stock them if not try your local fuel injection specialist or Bosch center,maybe even halfords??.

When you re-install the inlet mani. grab an old wing mirror and place it on top of the brake lines heat insulation,that way you can at least see most off the fixing bolts by shining a lamp down there,carefull as the bolts are different lengths aswell. While your there i rekon it wise to also change the fuel injector's sealing rubber 'O'-rings,just pull hard on the fuel rail to release the injectors then when re-fitting put some rubber grease on the new 'O'-rings and re-assemble.

Usual stuff,check fuel press,change fuel filter,check all engine earths(very important),check lambda probe's wiring if brittle,check probe to see output,serviced?,CAT might have imploded partially blocking exhaust gas,dodgy hyd.tappets were they sometimes remain slightly open due to old,dirty engine oil. Also check the in-tank fuel pump's strainer for muck,sludge etc,could be water in fuel,plugs ok?,corroded ECU harness conections,partially blocked fuel injectors,injector harness insulation has cracked and is shorting out.... 15+year old motors mate...

Pulsing's normal as is the buzzing,have you cleaned it properly?,is it seized?(common on the old 1st series 'valvers),are you getting a electrical signal to the ISV?.

Maybe, but the oil may also be leaking into the rack's gaitors and if there not split the oil will build up inside.Whatever the cause is i suggest you get it sorted quick 'cos it sounds very dangerous. Regarding the left/right hand lock to lock,possibly, but first check the steering gear like i suggested.You could also get the steering rack's operating pressure checked at a Bmw garage/dealer with their dedicated testing gear.

Not only you mate,i did it when first restored my 1st 'raddo. Luckly your front end is bare so start pulling the right hand(Batt. side) release catch which should in turn release the left hand catch,that's assuming you have'nt adjusted the strikers so much that the mech.are truely stuck by the bonnet's catch springs. By the way,your second photo shows the anti-theft alarm's bonnet switch,pull all you like on that but it won't do squat. Almost forgot,get a friend to push down on the bonnet whilst your trying to release the catch,that way you will be relieving some spring force off the catchs allowing you to pop the locking mech.s.(hopefully..)

Could be a problem regarding the PS pump's pressure limiter valve,try jacking the car up and 'driving' it on the stands to see if you can replicate the problem,also check the steering rack carefully,are there any leaks from the rack?. Also,if possible,run the car without the belt that operates the power steering pulley and see if it still plays up. I don't remember if your Bmw has the same system as fitted to Honda legends,big Rovers etc were at speed above 50mph the steering gets progressivly harder to give more feel at speed?.

well yes there probably is but god only knows were you'll find it,i managed to use the original Vw tool for an 8v head,it was a pig to compress the springs but eventually i managed,after first breaking the shitty plastic compressor piece,bloody Vw.. Getting those spring collets back in is another adventure awaiting..,use a small flat screw driver with grease to 'glue' the collet on while you replace them into the valve spring and on the valve's cut-out on stem. By the way,i mentioned that the seals may sit too high and get hit by the hyd.tappets,disregard that because on that ocasion the 'engineering shop' left the guides too high,i found out after a month when all the car's oil dissapeared and re-dismanteled the head finding squashed stem seals.., but go carefully anyways and check the installed seal height before removing the old seals,use a vernier caliper. HTH,cheers.

Sorry to see such mindless vandalism,hopefully some rubbing compound will at least fade the scratch. What goes on in some "people's" minds???.

Good idea,has anyone ever changed the seals on a valver head??,it's difficult enough even with the head dismanteled from the car,remember those little sods are sitting deep within the head so you'll need the purpose made seal pliers to remove them and hope you don't come across a couple that are stuck fast ... BASTIDS to remove with possible damage to the valve guide. Be very carefull when re-fitting the seals because they SEEM to be seated ok but sometimes are just a few mm's to high,all will seem ok at first glance and when you re-fit the cams,caps etc everything will work fine untill the hyd.tappets pound the hell out of the tops of the seals...the engine will drink oil like you won't belive. I'm just speaking from hands-on experience and trying to point out a few pitfalls,i'm not trying to put you off, go ahead and good luck!.

Totally against the law here in Rome mate,as are ANY modifications to the car's engine,suspension,brakes you name it... A mate of mine did an engine swap a few years back on a Fiat bravo 1.8 16 valver,he put a 2.0 turbo delta evoluzione engine in and got pulled by the bill,fine and forced to re-take MOT and the car has to be as it left the factory,i.e a heap of shiyte with drum brakes and fuc all power.

I forgot,you've got the G60'PG' 1800cc engine which complicates things alot. You'll definatly need to change the PG's original pistons because the comp. ratio will be around 6.7/1 when adding the KR or 9A's cylinder head,i did it a few years back using a PG block and KR valver head.The turbo lag was quite bad because i was using a large turbo and the engine was totally gutless at low rpm but i got used to it. You'll also have problems regarding the IM shaft and wider camshaft pulley,cam belt etc. Unless you remove the engine block you won't be able to remove the IM shaft as it will hit the inner wing 'cos it's too long so you'll have to shave down a few mm's of the pulleys to get the pulleys to fit. 8valve's oil pump has a different drive to 16valvers,swap over pumps. Then there's the problem of the crankcase breather,valvers have theirs on the block while PG blocks have it on the cam cover. Pg block has a extra coolant passage behind the timing belt cover which interferes with the valver's metal timing belt cover but is a simple fix. And the PG's con rods have a 22mm gungeon pins as oposed to KR,9a's which make do with 20mm jobbies. I'm sure there's loads more that i've forgotton about,it's been a few years now,hope that helps.

Just what i did mate,2 ABF metal headgaskets,O/E 16v new headbolts,Digi 1 injection with SNS-5 chip which works fine even on a 16v 2.0 engine. Don't bother using a 72mm pulley on the charger because the engine will use all the boost,it won't even register on the boost gauge.. 68mm pulley or even better 65mm jobbie.I'm considering going back to a turbo because i can't stand the noise the G-charger makes and i cant rid the engine of the bloody belt slip,there's no way i can put a tensioner on the belt because it's totally custom built by me using bits found off other cars,breakers etc. You could copy my set-up,depends on how much time you have,have you got a friendly breaker,loads of tools?,garage.. Good choice of intercooler is essential as is a good oil cooler. Remember,there will be no boost return so that charger will whistle while idleing,you may like it,i don't so i rigged up a kind of boost return to the O/E air box and it works ok.

Or be a cheap bastid like me and fit an old K-jet bosch pump sourced from a breaker and fit that,it'll keep up with the output up to 500+brake,costs virtually nowt but has the same problem Kev mentioned,you have to have at least a third of a tank of fuel otherwise it sucks in air whilst cornering but who ever goes racing with their car in reserve?..

Yeah Bigtartan they're 15 inch jobbies,in Italy the first thing the cops look for are different size wheels,1mm over 15inch and it's impound time for your ride+ a 380 euro fine AND the impound costs 20 euro a day,no wonder goverment officials earn upwards of 8000 euro a month...

I bought these BBS wheels off the bay,1.200euro including P+P and tyres with 6/7mm tread,was i done??.

Yes.

Right then,i payed 175 GBP for a set of FK highsport coilovers off fleabay,they look to be in good condition and are compleat with protective spray and spanners. Have i been done???,comments please..

Remember also that con-rods do strech a little at hi rpm.

That's a damm shame,i just threw 2 perfect doors into the bushes were all my corrado bits are..,if you pay the postage there yours. I've also got two G-laders aswell,1 is fitted to my G60-16v engine and the oters a spare.

Right lads,i need advice,i've seen a Koni yellow coilover suspension set-up on line for sale.The blokes asking 280euro for all 4 shocks,what i'd like to know is are they any good ride wise?,here in Rome the road surfaces almost all over the city are bloodywell awfull... Are they worth that cash?,they look to be in v.good nick. Any opinions are most welcome,cheers.

Try jamming a large flat-bladed screwdriver inside the timing aperture on the gearbox's bell housing,failing that remove the stater motor and jam the screwdriver in the flywheel's ring gear.