VEEDUBBED

Kev,were can 1 buy dynomat hoodliner from?,cheers.

A/C discharge pipe attachment??,i've done that job once by the roadside,hardest part is getting those effin Vw O/E hose clips off the heater hoses...

Have a look using the search button,there was a good guide on the '92 'CBA' and 'ATA' 'boxes showing both unit's ratios etc.

Hi all,can someone tell me were i can buy a low temp fan switch for a '92 corrado with A/C?,thanks.

Make sure that the ECU's hose is in good nick,no cuts or splits. Check also that the above hose is fitted on the right throttle nipple,check cond. of FPR vacume pipe,change blue water temp.sender or swap temp. plugs with black sensor. Check lambda probe wiring carefully also check wiring to IAT sensor,check actual fuel press with engine running,check also FPR output.

I"ve got a stg5 no lag chip fitted in my 2.016v g60 engine,night and day difference in idle,consumption,first morning start-up,exellent chip that originally designed for an 8v g60 motor,imagine how well a dedicated 16v-g60 eeprom must be like...

I've got 3 spare aluminium flanges i don't need,i also changed the rubbish plastic 1 fitted to the 9A motor,let me know if you need it.

I've got the same problem on my G6016v engine,sounds horrible as if something is going to break loose and fly off i managed to oil all 4 tensioner wheels with a syringe and needle slowly injecting in oil to aid the 14 year old grease and the noise stopped for about a week but then came back with a vengence. Only thing to do in my case is change all the tensioner wheels,a heafty wodge of cash more than certain...

Is any 1 re-building a G60 mill? well,instead of buying expensive forged units why not fit these?,84mm,same piston pin(22mm),same height and oil squirter cut out is in the same place,you will have to use a metal ABF head gasket. They come off a Fiat coupe turbo 16v 2.0 engine,lancia delta intergrale pistons are the same but have smaller oil drain holes on the oil control ring,they are immensly strong,have similer squish areas and have scuff bands around the circumference something the G60 pistons don't. Don't worry about the 84mm bore,tuners have been over boring Vw blocks to 85mm for years. I don't think this has been dun before?...

16v-g60 corrado running an SNS stg5 no-lag chip,100% satisfied and i'm running an 8valve chip,just imagine a chip done for that specific engine setup,recommended without hesitation.

I made this set up on my charged valver mill,it doesn't eliminate the whistle compleatly but it's much better,more faint but still can be heard..

That's a bitch mate,i personally never had that happen to me(i'm touching wood..) on my 16 valve 2.0 G60 engine i'm still running the original bolt,it has never been touched also on my old 8v motors i took the crankshaft bolt off a few times to change varios heads,experiment with turbos etc,again,never a problem. I've got at least 2 full g60 engines in bits,most of which i don't need,if you want i can post off bits,pistons,cranks,cams,rods,I.shafts,even engine blocks,the only problem is postage thats quite steep.

I'll second that,i've got that same oil in my car's 'box and it's exellent,bright red so you can also see the level within the 'box easier.

I fitted a 59mm pulley this morning,re-tuned the co-pot to 390 ohms,bigger injetors etc so maybe tonight i'll try and get the car flat out in 5th and see the difference in preformance,must be carefull though,last week i nearly hit a stray cat at 130mph...

How much boost can a standard G-charger create when adding it to a 16valve mill?,68mm pulley. What's the smallest pulley that can be used without killing the charger?,but using a long ratio'd gearbox so redlining is not needed,comments please..

Right,last saterday i installed a spare 1.8 exhaust cam and modified it to work as an inlet,all went ok,i pressed off the cog timing wheel and aligned the cams up in a spare head,welded the sproket back with the famous 6 degree difference,rock steady idle and very good top end,a bit more compared to the KR inlet cam used previosly. The problem is that i've lost pressure from the supercharger,before it went to 0.8 using a 68mm pulley,now it's down to 0.4bar,the charger's is in exellent condition there are no boost leaks that i can hear,it only happend since swapping the cam,i wonder if the cam has too much overlap for a charged 16v engine?. Even with only 0.4bar absolute pressure i still spanked an Audi TT effortlessly,just to make certain i red lined the engine in 4th,pressure still 0.4bar,speedo indicating 219km/h,flat out. Anyone got a similer engine to mine who may have had the same issues?.

Right then,i think it's time to bin the O/E 9A's down pipe and hollowed out cat, and get a freer flowing system,problem is that i don't know which 1 to get. If i'm not mistaken,a couple of years back another forum user was making his own downpipes,i don't remember the guy's name though,he def. built a G60valver though,comments,advice please.

I was going to send a full VR head down last year to England,i weighed it on the bathroom scales and the total came to around 16kilos,take that with a pinch of salt though,the scales are ancient.

That's good to hear mate,a SIMPLE job on a corrado..

The 9A 2.0 valver fits the same idle valve as the VR6 model,it's bigger,more barrel like but has the same 2 pin connection,do you need a spare 9A ISV?,i'm sure i've got a couple left,let me know if you want 1.

I just got back from racing on rome's ring road with my G-ladered 2.0 corrado,very addictive..and highly dangerous,i almost rammed a golf up the ass at 230+k/ph..luckly the brakes are sorted. I think the gearbox's ratios are to long though because i only see 0.6 bar positive pressure on the boost gauge unless i rape it in third then i get 1 bar or maybe this is normal?,the charger has a 68mm pulley.

Wow,780 for a new displacer?,i'll sell you a compleat charger with a new 12mm timing belt for 600euro...,

Well yeah,i still had to pay for the actual car itself and towing but my mate owns a huge car breakers so the whole project cost me 600euro,i sold the rack for 150,back axle for 200,rear quarter panel another 200 euro. I re-fitted the heavly re-worked cyl head back on yesterday,changed the timing belt,oil+filter,tomorow morning i'll fit back the front bumper and hopefully by the weekend i'll be criusing in my G60 charged 16valve corrado again. I'm lucky because i found that car which has 66000km on the clock(~32000miles),i've opened the engine and it's spotless the body work was also the same colour as my original corrado which had awfull bodywork so i re-fitted all components on to my old shell,i'm also lucky as i do everything myself,i've got the time to do it(self employed) and have a lock up with plenty of space and i've got untold tools aswell.

Here you go,try making something similer to knock out the guides,remember to oil the valve guides before tapping them back into the head.

I've just finished doing the same job on my G60-16V corrado,remove the old stem seals ,possibly using special pliers designed for that purpose,put the head in a vise using the timing tensioner's stud then make up a punch/guide like mine(i'll post up photos),i used an old turbocharger wastegate actuator rod,a spare bolt that locates the G-charger's tensioner,old piston pin.2 13mm nuts,hit the guides out of the head from the camshaft side into the ports,reverse the procedure when finished,be carefull,BEFORE removing the guides measure the height that they protrude into the head,mine were 10mm from the bottom of head were the valve spring washer sits to the shoulder were the seal sits,this is very important because if,like me you forget to check,the followers will hit the seals and destroy them,you won't know even if you check by turning the cams to check. Mine were only 2mm higher than the normal 10mm,i can assure you,the car drank oil like a bastid and mashed all 16 guide seals,also,there's no need to heat the head,you could also use a hyd press but how does 1 remove the inlets,seeing as there slanted at an angle??