beavis

I think there are 2 spare down the unit that are on some spare chargers we brought. You are quite welcome to have one of them.

Avoid 'Kwik Save' no thrills stylee boxes..crap cardboard from Bosnia.

Depands on the quality of cornflake packet it is made from :lol: :lol: .

We have had customers come to us with 'E-bay specials' fitted in their ECU's. The ones we have seen basically behave in this manner, dead below 3k rpm due to too much fueling, pull well though the mid range then jerk about as the fueling goes crazy up top end. They proberbly won't blow your motor as they just dump silly amounts of fuel in running rich. They do the job, but they are very crude indeed. What you save on the chip you will pay back in larger fuel bill's over a year. Another lad we know ordered up a G40 chip and pulley off e-bay just out of curiosity, LOL, he wondered what the hell was going on with his car when hge started it up as it acted very irratically. Turned out on furher investigation he had been supplyed with a chip with a G60 map coded onto it.

LOL.. Ye Oil catch tanks have been made, as have the blanking plates for the charger. We have just got to clean everything up when Darren returns. As regards the 'Stickey black plastic method', for all you blue peter fans out there who are not concerned about looks you can always save yourself some money and use a old Coke bottle as a catchtank. A hole in the side to lead the hose from the breather too and perferate a series of holes in the top of bottle for breathing. Gaffa tape and a few zip ties will keep the engineering genius in place. I'm afraid there is no blue peter badge included in this package. :lol:

Jah, we gonna build up my track G40 with the 1341cc forged pistons 1st and get that out of the way, then it is G60 1.9 time. The majority of bits are gathered, no doubt Darren will return back from holiday with a few more goodies in his suitcase to boot. The Forged pistons amost other things will provide a good platform for a reliable engine, there should be plenty of scope to get away with murder after that. :D Not too sure on the final price of the outlets yet, they are not going to be mega money, he have ordered 50 so they chould be cheaper for us to buy in bulk. We will keep you informed on the progress.

I'm sure I read somwhere that some lads got arrested for stealing NOS from a hospital to feed there need for speed.

Ye. it is quite louder than you expect. Charger's shift a large volume of air, you get a constant whoosh when you back off and hold it at high RPM.

The Oil breather is fed off to a catchtank where all the vapours are condenced. It is possible just to place a small pipercross filter on the end of the ISV instead of leading it off to the tank. The return hose is junked and the Throttle body left to blow off to air. Nothing will get sucked in as there is always excess boost being vented via the secondary butterly in the open position. There has been quite a bit of controvercy about whether or not chargers need oil vapours to lubricate them. My personal opinion is that the need for oil vapours is a falocy. This opinion is based on our own findings. I've ran my track G40 with boost venting to air and vapours to a catchtank for the past 2 years. The charger has been stripped and inspected several times. There is no accelerted wear on the scroll, apex seals or the casing apex seal faces. Apex seals are made of PTFE impregnated with bronze and are basically a self lubing bush that does notrequire lubrication. With the oil breather conneted in the convetional fashion there is always a build up of scum in the charger made up of mayonased oil and carbon deposits which is not the healthest deposits have being chucked about the charger. This build up is non existant on chargers with boost vented to air. The oil vapours are normally vented back into the combustion chambers via the charger to be burnt off, this is not really a good thing as oil is not as volotile as petrol and the presence of oil deaderns the burn which enduces the chance of pinking. The contents of my catchtank. A short vid where you can hear what the boost return to air sounds like from inside the car Sorry for the long reply[video width=400 height=350]http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com/vid/afr1st.WMV

View taken in and digested. I suppose i'm quite old skool in my tuning ideas. VR engine's are quite robust units. What is the drivability of the car like with the NOS switch on around a track? Is the power progresive with the throttle or just a suddern burst?

The Red tops really need a 65mm pulley with the car running at least 15psi of boost realtivly low down to fuel properly or else the mid range becomes stogie. With regard the 2.0 bottom end, what piston diameter do you intend to use? pushing 2.0 on reboring alone and no re stroke will result in very thin walls in the block. Boring to 83.5mm will only give you 1892cc. There are alternatives to getting increased mechanical power out of the block without jepodising the the relaiblity of the block. Stand alone systems are good if you intend to continue modding the car in the future or use the car for different application i.e. a econmy map / track day map. You also have the added advantage of replacing the majority of the ECU loom which are getting tired and decrepid on the majority of G60 with them knocking into their teeage years now. In saying that the Digifant system has plenty of flexibility and can be adapted to accomodate the majority of modifacations. All managment systems are only as good as the senders supplying them the information, replace the knock sensor, CO Potentiometer and lamba. All will be long in the tooth and worth replacing. We will be having our Pitstop/G-werks alloy RSR stylee outlets delivered in the next few weeks.

LOL.... NOS is eveil, eveil stuff!! It is not proper power and should be left for the little DTM boys in their 1.1's. Seriously though, NOS works by cooling the charge creating a condenced mass of cold air to give you some nice combustion, sounds good, but the side effects are a massive and tempreture change in a split second. Your inlet manifold, head, valves etc are seeing a tempreture swing from 60'c odd down to -150'c in a split second. It is not a uniform tempreture change where the whole engine cools at the same rate, only sections of it, hence cracked heads etc. It is a little like taking a pint glass out of a bowl filled with boiling water and dropping it into a bowl of chilled water, watch it crack. Save ya money and spend it on wholesome engine mods.

Ye the aim is to put our skills and knoledge together to produce some nice effective kits at reasonable prices. The combination of the mods we are developing should make for a good package.

We (Pitstop/G-Werks) have been working on a design now for a couple of months. The paper became reality last week when the new outlet sample's arrived. They are cast and CNC machined, quality alloy outlets. We have oversized them to allow us to enlarge the exit of the charger a lot more when we are porting them. Before we have been govened by the restrictive diameter of the VAG aircon outlet and BBM's RSR's. The outlets will be port matched to flowed chargers and are quite compatible with standerd unported units alike. As for price, unitl we get a final quote for a production run then we do not know, but rest assured it will be a cheaper option than importing from oversea's

A lesser volume of cold dence air is more effective than a high volume of less dence warm air. A huge cone filetr that is poorly positioned will be less effective than a standerd air box.

Ye... if it does'nt produce enogh boost, just throw it in the bin and buy a new one for 1800 quid as they are a consumable item like a oil filter :lol: I want to find the bin that all the condemed chargers that VAG were dumped in.

It all depends on what spec your car is. If it is standered then the likes of a performance clutch is a little overkill. If it is tuned, or you intend to tune it then opt for a uprated one as it will save you money in the long run as the orginal units slip very slightly when they have to transfer high torque which acclerates wear. We have supplyed Helix organic ones which are a uprated lining with a cover plate that has increased clamping pressure. They supply a paddle aswell, but that is more suited to track applications as the bite is a little more vicious. Sach power clutches are semi uprated and are widly avaliable, they are a little more durable than the orginal units. It is worth getting the flywheel checked for truness or excessive wear as some cars have had several clutches in their liftime but the ode flywheel has been neglected to be replaced. A uneven face on a flywheel will kill your nice new clutch in no time so if in doubt, replace it.

I've supplyed a guy called Andy who has a metalic green G60 with a set of red tops and a suitable SNS chip last week. I'll ask him how he is getting on with them. It has to be added the red tops are only really suitable for those who have the complementing engine spec to require the extra fuel e.g. Flowed head, cam, 65mm pulley.

Sac off the baffle box, he have seen car after car with repeat examples of the baffle box leaking boost. It has got to the point that we are changing the majority of baffle boxes we see with RSR style outlets. We port match the RSR outlet to the exit of the charger when we flow them. It is possible to enlarge the outlet to a larger diameter with the RSR alloy style outlets :) ..which is nice.

Yes, between us the colabration of Pitstop, G-werks and SNS (A-team if you prefer) will be able to come up with the package quite quickly. Between us we have the skills and the knoledge to get the project executed swiftly. We have a the 1st prototype run of all the components needed for the conversion. Fingers crossed, all going well we will have a engine in the test mule car in the next month and will take it from there. Obviously we will a test engine for a few thousend miles so any conceiverble problems will become apprent on our own car rather than using paying customers as guini pigs. To give a definitive time scale on this would be misleading. We would like to think that a conversion would done on a customers car by late on this year. The final assembly of the engines will most proberbly take place at Darrens new favorite hangout LOL, as there is plenty of space to work comfortably there.

We have seen quite a few G60 Corrado's/Golf's in the last few months which have not been responding as well as they should to modifacations. On further investigation we have made the connection of a trend. A well set up car which are down on power is 9/10 due to low engine compression due to worn rings and/or block. Since the tail end of last year we have had more and more enquiries from customers looking to have, or components for a engine rebuild. After looking at various options at the different routes that can be taken we have opted to go down the route of oversized forged pistons, bored block to create a 1.9 bottom end. The standerd G60 configuration is tried and tested, the options avaliable to squeeze magical 2000cc out all seem to kick up a host of complicatons, possible flaws in reliability with the components having to be used to achive the 2000cc etc etc. We are using a higher compression ratio over standerd to try and achive a more 'perkie' engine when the car is off boost. With this configuration the increased mechanical power from the upped compression ratio combined with the gains in torque from the larger cc creates a engine which is less dependent on boost, hopfully a 68mm pulley will provide more than ample boost for the engine to make productive use of. Gone are the days of looking to feed the car with copius amounts of boost, overworking the charger, to achieve high power figures. The forged pistions can withstand a lot more abuse over the standerd units so will be caperble of withstnding the strains of the higher compression ratio. We are working hand in hand with Darren from G-Werks with this project who will be providing some very interesting ideas to feed the top end of the engine :D and fabricating componets to complement the conversion. Bilal from SNS will be providing the necessary tweaks for the managment system to produce a chip with altered fueling/ignition to keep things sweet. From the financial perspective the oversized 1.9 gives you the the most BHP/££. The plan is to acheive a sencsibly priced packaged to bring back to life those tired engines and let the breed live on in a improved but not too aduterated form. The Forged pistons alone will work out at £600 inc vat and rings. I'm going to see the chap who has designed the pistions for us tomorrow, we are going to discuss plans for a uprated head gasket and possible use of uprated rods for those who whish to take things a step further. The a test bottom end will be fired up in a car in the matter of the next couple of weeks so then the theory should translate into reality. Please excuse the long reply, there has been months of homework going on behind the scenes with this project and now seemed a apt time to discuss the future plans. Myself, Darren, Liam and Bilal have very tried to look at all aspects of things to get the conversion going 1st time without too many complications.

One thing I've seen again and again is G60's with disfunctional ABS system, rather than the problem been sourced and fixed the bulb of the warning light has been taken out by the previous owner to mask any indication of the problem. Check for excessively worn/cracked front engine mount. It is worth just poping the belt tensioner off the side of the alternator to check for excessive play in the alternator bearings and have a look at the condition of te multi vee belt to see if it is crazed or perished, if it is treat it to a new one. When you say the charger has blown i presume u mean that it has physically gone pop with metal debries? A lot of people call me and say there charger has 'blown' when infact it is phsically ok and has just poped a oil seal and there are plooms of smoke out the back. Regardless of whichever you are going to have to rip all the boost hoses, intercooler off to at minimum clean out the oil but if it has physically blown up then you gonna have to clean out all the metal debris before you fit a replacment charger as you will just blow a second one if the debris from the 1st grenaded charger get into the replacement.

I totally agree with Darren. We have had a couple of cars that were really badly behaved, pinking there tits off on light throttle, hesitation, misfireing etc, once the knock sensor had been changed all problems were irradicated leaving the car ready to have the timing and CO set up. Everybody with a G60 should go check there knock sensor, it is the 1st thing we check on any car we see now, about 1 in 3 cars have a perished cable casing and need replacing. If your luckey enough to have a intact one, then make sure it is not incontact with the block or shafing on any other engine ancilary.

It is all to do with how the ignition maps are mapped on a particular chip. If there is a advanced ignition map written on a chip it is somtimes necessary to physically retard the distributer timing and vice versa with a retarded chip. Cars do need the CO pot adjusing and the timing (and idealy valve timing) dialed in when any chip is fitted for them to run smoothly and to the maximum potential. There are no set values for CO adjustment or distributer ignition timing, every car responds diffrently and has to be set up differently according to other mods that have been done to the engine and octane rating of fuel used regularly etc. I cannot comment on Jabba chips to much as we only have set cars up using the UK spec SNS chips.

Does rather sound like the knock sensor retarding things as the symptoms seem to be, as you say when the car is under load. G60 engines are extremly sensitive to pinking, it may just be that the disi ignition is just a little too advanced for the jabba chip. Check the knock sensor cable itself for any signs of physical damage, we have come across several G60 raddo's we have done work on this year where the outer insulating casing of the cable has perished, cracked and exposed the core of the cable. When the knock sensor cable is in this state it creates the symtoms that you describe. A new one from VAG is about 50 quid, slightly cheaper from GPC in Luton.