beavis

I'm sure i replyed to this the other day in another part of the forum and explained what is going on with the 5k spikes.

Here we are... 5k flatspots become apprent on cars with dodgy hall senders. We have set a few cars up with majour 5k flatspots. Adjusting the CO pot and timing failed to get rid of it, we then swapped the distributers over with new/proven ones and the problem was resolved. The SNS chips do highlight any weak senders on the car, it is a weird position for us as we have to explain to customers that they need to replace senders for the car to drive 100%. About 1 in 5 of the cars we chip suffer from the flat spot initally until the dizi/knock sensor is replaced. All G60 owners should be looking at, and the majority have replaced, knock sensor, CO potentiomter and possibly hall senders. All C's are knocking on being a decade old and age is taking its toll. As much as we like to think that VW are 100% reliable, these senders do become effectivly worn out and expired, most people dismiss them as they cannot be examined like a mechanical item for wear/play/cracks etc. All senders are avaliable form VAG or Bosch agants, Knock sensors £35, CO pots £47 and hall senders £60.

Yep..will be going up there.

5k flatspots become apprent on cars with dodgy hall senders. We have set a few cars up with majour 5k flatspots. Adjusting the CO pot and timing failed to get rid of it, we then swapped the distributers over with new/proven ones and the problem was resolved. The SNS chips do highlight any weak senders on the car, it is a weird position for us as we have to explain to customers that they need to replace senders for the car to drive 100%. About 1 in 5 of the cars we chip suffer from the flat spot initally until the dizi/knock sensor is replaced. All G60 owners should be looking at, and the majority have replaced, knock sensor, CO potentiomter and possibly hall senders. All C's are knocking on being a decade old and age is taking its toll. As much as we like to think that VW are 100% reliable, these senders do become effectivly worn out and expired, most people dismiss them as they cannot be examined like a mechanical item for wear/play/cracks etc. All senders are avaliable form VAG or Bosch agants, Knock sensors £35, CO pots £47 and hall senders £60.

I've got a stash of FPR's if you have problems sourcing one. One thing, before we chip any G60 we check the CO pot resitance to check that it has not died and the casing of the knock sensors body and cable to see if it is damaged. If the above are found to be defective these need replacing aswell.

Cool :D .. Yes, the engine will appear to come on boost quicker as you will have new piston rings so will be making factory compression. Most 100k plus G60's have well worn rings which do not effectively seal and hold boost so you end up loosing precious boost into the crankcase. If tou do a compression test you will be pulling about 11bar, most G60's we have tested are between 8-10bar.

A 16 row 115 cooler can be mounted directly onto the slam panel in front of the charger and behind the upper grill. The mounting bracket holes of the mocal coolers line up exactly with two larger predrilled holes in the slam panel. Mount the cooler using 20mm washers at the top, benith the washers a 20mm dia x 2mm rubber washer, slam panel, then a 20mm dia x 10mm depth rubber washer, though cooler mounting holes, two 25mm M6 bolts though the centre secured by two nylock nuts at the bottom. Mount the sandwich plate as normal and run the short hose run to the cooler fittings which should face downwards toward the cross member. I hope all this makes sence. Mounting in this position provides easy access, no need to remove the bumper, but you will possibly need to remove the charger if you cannot do the fittings up with the front uper grill removed surficently tight enough. I have some picture somwhere i'll try and dig out.

We have had some G60 braided hose kits made up, they are better quality than barry goodridge and have 'whip guards' which prevent stresses being built up on the union/hose fittings which causes failure. Not sure on the price, but I do know they are a dam sight cheaper than goodridge.

Das is gut jah!! Ye.. the pullies should be delivered in the next few weeks.. Been chatting to the CNC company and they tell me that teh majority of the pullies have been made and have to wait for some new tooling to finish the crank pullies. Then they have to go off to be hard anodised, guide rings fitted and then ready for dispatch. We are looking to sell them in the region of £360-380 with exchange on your original power steering drive pulley as we have to mod them to fit our pullies. I've ordered 12 sets in this order and they will be dispatched on a 1st come 1st served basis to keep things fair. Glad ur happy Ant. LOL

Had a really enjoyable weekend.. nice to put some names to faces.

We have replaced several in the last few months aswell, they usallly split when we remove the hose to fit our fuel pressure gauge when we do a fuel pressure test. The hose to the gauge has gradually got shorter as we have cut it to use as replacement to the fuel pressure switch LOL. Common faults we come accross on a regular basis which need to be covered in a comon fault section. Failing CO pot Damaged knock sensor/cable Perished Fuel injector wiring harness Failing Hall senders Failing Fuel pump Split/perished vacume hoses Leaking charger baffle boxes Worn front engine mount Can more or less walk up to any G60 and find at least 2 of the above problems. Quite happy to write some descriptiomns on how to diagnose and fix the problems.

Ye... that is a tool.. using proper kit, executed properly. The crank will take the torque and the pistons the extra stresses exerted on them though the increased compression. The car is silly on the standerd pulley at the moment, plus the head flows for the CC unlike the standred G60 choked head. The homework has been done on that engine, 2.0l using some nice custom stuff. The concerns I have is that most people who choose the 2.0l route just gather the componets that will give the dimentions and mechanics needed to go 2.0l without considering the strength and integrity of the kit being used. A componet that is good in its normal application is just a disater waiting to happen in a forced induction application. I gotta watch how i phrase this as I obviously have a bias, vested interest in this matter. I'm not saying that 1.9 is best, just saying it is the simplist route to take without upsetting the charcter of the G60 engine, sacrificing strength and can be easierly achived using strightforward kit. The 2.0l in the mk1 is a beast, but also has the price tag to go with it, ye, all objectives can be overcome if enough money is invested, but for the majority of people that route is simply out of finacial reach.

Capacity helps a lot.. but there is a lot more to the equasion than just capacity. We have spent several months reseaching different options to come up with a plan that will work well. There are lots of reasons we are sticking to 1.9. Other routes all have big trade offs, I can probebly tell you down to the part number what crank you going to use, invest in a set of Custom rods aswell if you do go down that route, will save you a lot in long run. Engine dynamic's are a funny thing, alter one thing or use a product that is not quite suited to the job and all will not be quite right. I know everybody wants to take a individuel route, but just beware it is not somone elses discarded route as it is not quite what it seems. Capacity is not the be all and end all. We have a few G40's running 170 BHP at the moment, my track one runs 178bhp, realiably, on 1272cc's (at the moment). Henney, take a close look at the power charicteristics of the other companies conversions. One company I know uses a 2.0l Commercial transporter van to acive 2.0l instead of the PG, the waterjackets are completly unsuitable for forced induction although the block seems to be pucker for the job at face value. Just look closely before you spend out on anything, not trying to put you off the scent of getting a powerful lump in ya car, just don't want to see you spend a lot of money for gains/charicteristics that will not follow suit to 'exagerating' the power and charicteristics you already have.

LOL.. well a genuine 2.0 will require a rebore of at least 85.9mm.. Good luck to whoever is doing that for you as they have balls of steel ! ! ! I'd expect a engine rebuild with that little meat left in the block to come back though the workshop door (followed by a trail of oil) quicker than a G60 charger ren on a 20mm pulley.

Yep, I suspect the trends will be a little like mapping a fuel map on a car. A loyt of people assume more rpm and more load = more fuel at a linier rate, but at certain points odd things happen. For example a car may need more fuel at full load at 3k rpm than at 6k because strange things happen with regards flow of air though the engine. Chargers will proberbly present same anomolies, say shifting la larger volume of air between 3-6k rpm than 4-7k as the unit will be more efficent at some given point.

Ye, oil coolers keep G60's a lot happier. We fit them suspended from the slam panel, positioned in front of the charger behind the grill. Nice to be able to thrash the car and still see sub 100'c oil tempretures.

If the car starts via a bump start the problem is most likely to be the ignition switch. If the car is completly dead and won't even bumps start check out the ECU relay.

It should adjust with in the parameters of min appox 250, maxing out at 1900 odd. Most cars fall within the 400-750 bracket when we set them up. Is your car charged or N/A? If it is N/A then the ECU maybe trying to compensate for what is not going on.

My friend is starting a course at Cranfield uni soon. We are gonna hijack there flow benches to get some CFM figures on ported G laders and how they compare to screw and centrefugals. Some facts and figres on the charicteristics of each different design.

You will hear it before ya see it :D

Coilover come up trumps if you want to play with the setup regularly or want to dial in some under/oversteer charicteristics to the car. For most people though a good set of quality dampers like koni's and a slight 35mm drop is more than a adequate compromise to deal with the high quality of british roads. We use FK coilovers which have Koni insetrts in them, the likes of AVO tend to pop there dampers after a year or so leading to expensive rebuilds. The phalicy of lower = better handling is also a myth, a realtivly stiff damper setting on a 35mm drop will be a lot more comfortable and composed than a -80mm with rock hard damping. The Boge dampers are not really man enough to cope with stiffer springs rates which causes them to 'stack' on a series of hit. This is where the shock is not strong enough to control damping on a series of stutter bumps and leads to the damper topping/bottoming out.

lol... ye, the problem at the moment being is that the centre bearing for the G60 is unique to that application, with the G40 VAG were thourtful enough to use a standerd sized bearing, after looking long and hard we have found a supplier that makes a bearing with a lot higher tollerences than OE. However with the G60, to go the same route we need to get the bearings made up ourselfs if we want a better quality unit as at the moment only OE bearings are avaliable in that size. We are in the process of having uprated seals made to cope with high RPM/hammer head drivers which can take the stick, bearings are next on the list, the ball has been started rolling but the route we need to take will cost a lot of clean money.

The G-lader at any given RPM is just a 'Air mover', the compression is due to the air being forced in to a enclosed chamber, i.e. the boost hoses to the closed inlet manifold valves and the engine using a lesser volume of air than that is is being supplyed with. The structural integrity of the unit will withstand in excess of 20,000 rpm before grenades itself to pieces. The limiting factor is the tollerences of the bearings namely the centre scroll bearing. There is not a close enough tollerence to stabilse the scroll at high rpm and the cages in the bearings are the weak links as they cannot withstand the cenrifugal forces or heat generated at higher rpm's. G-laders do shift a large volume of air per cycle compared to a turbo etc. This is not a recomended tuning mod but we did it so see just how reliable a charger could be under extreme rpm. We fitted a 58mm tooted pulley to a G40 charger and drove it to the 8000rpm rev limiter regularly thrashing it about with a suitable map and ECU mods to detect all 24psi of boost it was producing. The objective was to test some new modifyed/higher rpm top bearings, 17000rpm rated centre bearing we plan to use and see how long different brands of oil seals lasted at high rpm. All the bearings survived the 2000miles the charger lasted before burning out the lips on the oil seals as extreme heat is generated by the friction of the lips on the shaft as a lot of force is exerted to form the seal. Chargers are pretty strong, its is just the tollerences and service of components that are used to make them function that let them down and cause them to fail when pushed hard. Off the shelf components are adequate, so to get the best possible you have to get them made :lol: :lol: :lol: to keep everything in order. Crank RPM is direcly related to charger rpm, in saying this the multi vee belt is only caperble of efficently turning the charger pulley at lower RPM as the charger has lot of back pressure being exerted on it at higher rpm which causes the belt to slip.

I'm going to mail this link to Claire matey.... Spending bathroom sweet money on lights flittering it away on car goodies... 'It aye on!!' :twisted:

Take the CO pot out of the boost tube by removing the spring clip on the outside. Recover the rubber o-ring on the inner of the seal. With a multimeter test the resitance by taking the reading across the two outer terminals of the CO pots harness socket. The reading should be around 0.4 - 0.7 ohms. Take note of your 1st reading, adjust the resitance on the sender by twiddling the adjustment screw under the blue cap, then test the two outer terminals again. If the resitance does not change then your CO pot is dead. Replacement ones are in the region of 50 notes. We have seen quite a few in the last few month come to expire.