beavis

I imported a Polo G40 Genesis back from Germany last year. Quite a simple process, quite easy to get a LHD import insured by a company over here, but very few will only insure you once the car is back in the UK and registered on UK plates. I'm insured with the Norwich Union on that car, they were quite reasonable with the quote and insured me on the german plates back to the UK. If the German owner has not transfer there number onto another car it is possible to drive it back on the original german plates without the need to get tempery german import plates. The number is then deregistered automatically when you register it onto UK plates. I drove about on german plates for 3 months until my insurence company sent me a letter telling me 'it might be a idea to register your import' so I did. UK MOT, german V5 equiverlant (green slip), insurence for tax purposes, £25 registration fee andeither 6 or 12 months road fund is all that is needed to get the car regitered on UK plates. Clairify with the insurer that it is a German import, but it is a model avaliable in the UK and none of the body panels etc differ from the equiverlant UK spec model. I pay £80 more than a UK spec G40.

Did a bit of testing today.. ran a 35,000 bar fuel pressure... engine blew on start up from hydroylic lock from too much fuel, but we got a sub 5 sec 0-60 from the pressure of the fuel jetting outta the exhaust... Testing will recommence tomorrow..

he carbon canister collects and stores any evaporated fumes from the fuel tank when stationay or excess fumes build up. When the engine is started a vacume hose opens a purge valve and draws the fumes into the inlet manifold for them to be burned off. Ourself here at Pitstop/G-werks are very envioromentaly unfriendly, we pull the carbon canister out and give it back to the customer as a gift allowing fresh air flow to the airfilter. Enviroment vs. BHP....BHP wins. The best and most hypercritical sticker i've seen on a customers G60 is 'Don't buy Esso, they kill the planet'..... and a G60 does'nt?LOL

Firkin...we be having words.... U only paid for a Alloy one and you have had one of the Titaniums ones.. you owe us 1500 quid mates!!! No worries.. we got ya car at the mo..you can have it back when you paid up. :D

Cams are quite subjective. What it boils down to is what charecteristics you want out of your motor. A topend screamer with a flatter mid range or a more lininer power delivery with a little more top end grunt. Generally speaking the wilder the duration the more top end power you gain but sacrifice mid range torque in favor of this. Cams do not give you power, just move it about. Be aware that differnt cam manufaturers measure cam duration in different ways, some from the centres of the lobe at full lift, others from the point of tappet compression, so a 285' piper may not be a like for like of say a 285' Newman. Shricks 268' are expensive, but very well made and have nice drivable chrecteristics and are extreamly well made as the use a VAG billet. A Vernier cam pulley is really needed with a cam to adjust the duration to fine tune the charecteristics you want from the car.

Do not condem the charger. G60 engine is a funny old thing, if it is reachine 1 bar linier though the rpm range and peaks at 1 bar at 6200rpm that is the max reading you are going to get out of your charger as it is. If the boost levels rise linier to 1 bar and then plateau at 5000rpm for arguments sake, your charger is effectively producing more than 1 bar but the boost is being bled off though the ISV or you have a boost leak that is only noticable under high pressure. 14psi is not a bad figure though. Have you got a cone filter on it or a stock air box?

No one is provoking arguments, all we are saying is after a lot of hard graft, reading technical data about, manipulating and datalogging to gain understanding how the management works on a G60/G40/Mini we have a pretty good understanding of what is going on and what happens when you manipulate variables. Myself and Darren were out from 6 until 9.30pm last night just driving a G60 about adjusting variables and recording trends so we understand and know with confidence future mods we are planning and when we do them to customers cars are not going to cause any detromental long tearm dammage to the motor. This is not a one off, between us we spend about 10-20 hrs a week doing this. It is annoying when somone gives out unfounded advise which could potentially damage customers cars, alright, you say you have tried it and that you have done it and everyone seems to dismiss it !! Does that not tell you somthing. Maybe others have aswell, and there ARE reasons it has been dismised. I've learn't now that company's technical data is usally right as... A couple of years back myself and Liam had some 58mm toothed belt supercharger pullies made as we were inquisertive to what would happen running them on a G40. We found bearings, Apex seal and the technical data for the scroll was that it would not explode until way beyond what it would be reved to on a 58mm pulley. I read the technical info on the oil seals and the 58mm would rev them 1000rpm over there max permissable threshold, I chose to ignore this information and run them anyway past their given ratings. Fine for 1300 miles and then they would start to pass oil where the lips had melted from excess RPM, as did the second set i fitted, the same seals on a 65mm last years. Technical data is a godsend, it saves you hours, choose to ignore it or not do any reaseach and could be costly. I could have sold many 58mm pullies, but I would have a trail of customers at my door wanting new oil seals, as for your self, we are doing you a favour mate.. if people followed your advise they would be knocking at your door wanting engine rebuilds though bore wash or melted pistons though overfueling and failing injectors respectivly. Just because it works in the short tearm does not mean it is good for the long tearm. Come back with some data logs of your air/fuel etc etc and prove me wrong by all means. Sorry if this post may seem a little arrogant, but the long and short of it is that we do not like to see people doing detromental damage to their cars.

jah!!! for the time being :lol:

Got a nice spec'ed up car to complete tomorrow. Golf G60, shrick cam, custom front mount, supersprint manifold, big valve head, red top injectors, RS outlet, Full blend charger, boost to atmoshere, catch tank.. the list goes on.. Toothed belts going on it aswell tomorrow !!! My shinkter is twitching already as we have got to go out and set it up :D :D . Liam finished preparing the 'Bling' belt tensioners this afternoon.

Recon you could be onto somthing there Henny... We can use copper brake line as fuel pipe.. but I think a Bowing 747 fuel pump would flow better at a higher pressure.. do you not think ?? Working on a modded chip as we speak...I just got my nail clippers on a chip and cut off the 2nd 3rd and 6th pins on a chip... this will slow the duty cycle of the injectors down enough to handle the pressure. U up for testing tomorrow??

LOL.. 4.5 4 bar reg!!! Just looking at my favourite publication, BOSCH bible, big thick book with all the working parameters of its kit and how components work in relation to each other. I suggest you invest in a copy Migs. 2.5-3.5 bar for the majority of its injector units, a few are listed to work safely to 3,8bar, this is the safe working parameters for them to atomise and for the injector needle to lift to its full 0.05mm lift. LOL.. I’m off to buy myself a 5bar reg for my polo tomorrow...recon I'll get another 50bhp and some serious bore wash on the go for the weekend and fit a chip that works magic over the bosch boffins.

Good, we have got the alternator brackets made up and positioned, Darren is currently welding up a alloy plenum so we can mock the engine up with throttlebody and fuel rail in position. Picking up the bored out block and 1st of the run of the G60 forged pistons next week so we can crack on with building the 1st engine up and getting it operational.

A non specific intercooler kit can be retero fitted hacking stuff about quite cheaply but is always going to be a compromise as it is not taylored for the car, but a vast improvement over the stock corrado item. What you are paying for with a taylored kit is a cooler that fits without disturbing the bodywork of the car, looks factory, has effective header tanks welded to a brand new alloy core and neat clean alloy boost hosing so you have not got a snake of samco litering up the engine bay. Charge coolers kits vary dramatically extremly, effective to darn right useless, this is dependent upon the size of the water/air exchangers used in the system, charge coolers and aquamist are great for applications where space is constricted as the pipework between the exchanges just carries water and you are not having to route the boost hoses themselfs though awkward routes or undesired locations. Compound cooling using a charge cooler and intercooler is a bit of a overkill for most. The small gains you will get from improved throttle responce from a charge cooler at slow speed will soon dissopate after sitting in urban traffic for half an hour, then you will just have a heat soaked intercooler and charge cooler bath to make ya throttle dead. Charge cooler take longer to heat sync, but in general take longer to get back down to ambient tempreture when they have got hot too. Plus you have the added weight of another cooling system lurking about in your engine bay, The weight of 2 water exchangers, pump, hosing and the few litres of water in the system add up to quite a bit of extra weight.

With any modifacations a Rolling road session will indicate the ultimate 'sweet' point of any mod when setting a car up, but only in a rolling road enviroment, this is not a indication of what is going on when the car is flying along the road with air being rammed though the front of it. Over the last 2-3 months myself, Liam and Darren have been spending a lot of cash on diagnostic tools we can tack onto customers cars while setting them up and give us the data needed to optimise the set up the car on he road under normal operating conditions. We do sell the kits, the basic kit is listed on our site, i'm doing a update on the site at the moment so there will be a lot more information to follow on the products.

Being playing with Aquamist on one of our own cars for a while now getting the Jetting set up to get the best gains. We have the basic 1s system on one car and are working with Aquamist with installing the 2D system on our Mini Cooper 's' as they are about 20minuites from us. If you have a stock intercooler on your 'raddo' I would opt to fit the Aqaumist before our Toothed belts system as you will see bigger gains per ££ as the stock corrado intercooler is pretty inadaquate on a standerd let along tuned motor. Water injection allows you to safly run more ignition advance safly by lowering charge tempretures to ambient air tempreture. This eliminates 'pinking' which is the limiting factor when setting a G60 engine up. Most corrados have to be set with minimal ignition advance as stock so 'pinking' does not occur. When the engine pinks the knock sensor detects this and bleeds off boost via the ISV and retards the ignition timing even more. This is why when you drive you G60 hard for any length of time the engine seems to loose responce. Intake tempretures rise and the car runs retarded. With Aquamist the intake tempretures stay consistant as does the cars performance. I'm not saying our toothed belt system has no gains. The toothed belts eliminate belt slip completly leading to higher boost pressure over 4k rpm and a more imidiate throttle responce. But to maxinmise the gains of the toothed belts you need good intercooling. We had a corado in last weekend with Aquamist and we were seeing ambient air intake air tempretures while the car was being wragged. Another example is a G40 running aquamist. 158BHP and 160ft/lb torque on the rollers with the aqaumist tuened off, 170bhp 170 ft/lb rorque on the same roller 10 minuites later with the aquamist turned on!!

A worn Intermiditary cog timing belt is not the primary cause of a charger blowing, the top shaft cartridge bearings throwing there grease, running dry and seizing are the primary contenders for blowing the top out of the units. 13m belts are stronger than the 8mm original ones, but any wider than this is a overkill.

Reroutes do not solve the problem of boost bleeding off as you are just feeding the bleed off boost back in to the manifold pre throttle still creating a open circuit. Check valves stop the boost bleading off physically, but they do not stop the ECU retarding the ignition timing which it also does when it enters the 'overboost cycle'. In some circumstances they exagerate the problem as the ECU detects no drop in boost pressure when it is trying to bleed what it sees as excess boost off via the isv, so retards the ignition timing even more. So although you maintain boost pressure, the car is not maximising it as the ignition advance is severly retarded. The ISV's are not faulty, just doing what they are being told to do by the ECU. It is a managment issue and cannot be addressed by just rerouting/bunging the ISV. We are addressing the anomoly by adjusting the management so that the cycle does not begin in the first place, therefore boost pressure will be maintained as the ISV will not bleed off and ignition timing will not retard, both aspects are then addressed. More to follow.

New coolant hoses, to delete stock oil heat exchanger: 1 x 026 121 053G 1 x 068 121 063M These are the jobbies. Should cost no more than 20 notes from barry stealer.

Little more to the equasion than purly belt slip alone. The Management on the G60 actively bleeds boost off as a safty net if it detects pinking from the knock sensor and anomolies from other senders, so although belt slip is a major issue which is addressed by toothed belt systems, belt slip is not the sole reason that causes boost presure to plateau. This is a issue Myself Liam and Darren are reseaching at the moment. Certain cars bleed off quite drastically, others not at all, regardless of set up.

A healthey stock charger, on stock pulley will kick out around 9-10psi on a accurate gauge. 1 bar equates to around 14 psi, so you should be looking at 0.6-0.7bar. With a 70mm pulley and S4 12-13psi.

Quite funny to read this, must be the only forum member to not personally own a corrado but have driven more than most on the forum, I was up to about 35-40 on my last count. They all have there own unique charecteristics but with the underlying solid feeling of been a corrado, they are suprisingly agile for a relativly heavy car. Love the wall of torque hauling you along from 2k rpm with the VR's. :D

U gonna have 'TOO MUCH BOOST' Friday Firkin :lol: I here they have already put a Gale warning out on Madira Drive sat night

LOL..ye marshall had blown an oil seal (that had had a rebuild perviously but NOT by ourselfs) while ragging about. I had some seals in my boot and the various people had the necessary tools so seemed silly for marshall to go home via the AA. I have to add though that i do not make a habit of rebuilding chargers in fields, I much prefer service stations in the middle of Germany on the way to a show LOL :lol:

Both Stuart's and Richies G60ed G40's make 24psi of boost, well manifold pressure, stu's has a flowed head and piper cam, Richies just a cam of a unknown origin. Those chargers on a G60 engine would make about 20psi on a G60 engine on a 65mm toothed pulley.

500ohms is a just a guidence base setting. Every car has a very slightly different setting to run at its maximum potential. 500 ohms +/- 150 ohms is again a general guide. We use the wideband lamba probe to set the cars up now using the results of what we find to richen/lean the pot off. It is a good idea to test the resitance of the CO pot quite regularly as about 1 in 10 car we see has a failed/failing unit. This is usally indicated by figures 1500ohms plus, not being able to adjust the resitance down to with in the 500ohms region or simply it not responding at all. New units are in the region of 50 odd pounds from barry stealer.