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adamukcorrado

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Everything posted by adamukcorrado

  1. adamukcorrado
    that was gonna be my next question- how tight should it be? (without the use of a torque wrench) - i'll check the wiki, thanks for your help.
  2. adamukcorrado
    excellent, thanks for that, i'll be off to halfords then!
  3. adamukcorrado
    what size and type of socket is required for tightening the front wheel bearing on a VR6? where can i get one and what will it cost??
  4. adamukcorrado
    i know i could use washers to make up the 6mm, but to be honest i'm still struggling to get exactly 6mm and would prefer something more proffessional such as some proper spacers, can any one suggest where to get some???
  5. adamukcorrado
    i've bought 3 top end head units from halfords in the past (sale items) as they were significantly cheaper than competitors even on the net, and the fact that if there was a problem i could just walk back in (and beat the shop assistant with it if necessary!) was reassuring.... i'd say you definately need to be aware you'd probably dealing with 'gaz' the town boyracer - check the nova's in the car park...., but considering this there are still good deals to be had if you shop around.
  6. adamukcorrado
    mine idles very smoothly at unbelivably low RPM, i put it down to an inaccuracy on the needle.
  7. adamukcorrado

    CDA BMC

    adamukcorrado replied to Madjackal's topic in Engine Bay

    the important thing for a BMC CDA for a VR6 is that it's the 85-150 model, will fit several engines of a similar capacity. i've had 2 of them and the cheapest i found was motorbitz (yep the crappy high street shop the chav's use for their neons and led's) they ordered it for me in a couple of days for between £20-£40 cheaper than anyone else..... i didn't notice any extra parts being needed, but then mines a conversion so the parts aren't where they are supposed to be anyway.
  8. adamukcorrado
    yep i've got one one my 2.9 vr6, and judging buy the ancillary parts on my engine the block isn't even from a corrado let alone and english one!! i still don't understand why you go to all the hassle of ensuring the engine is sucking cold clean air, and all the engine wants to do is suck the fumes out of the top of the block!! can anyone help??
  9. adamukcorrado

    water light

    adamukcorrado replied to J50DUB's topic in Engine Bay

    i've had my current C for over 18months and the water light has been flashing since the day i bought it..... have changed expansion tank 3 times, had major engine wrks done on several occasions and i know everything is now in tip top condition so i've learnt to ignore it! (not ideal, but now i'd be more worried if it stopped!!! :) )
  10. adamukcorrado
    when i tried to get a VAG rad the price was literally twice what people like southern rad's were charging for a brand new (potentally custom made) item, i'd decided i'd take my chances with the cheaper option and if i had to buy another in a years time it hadn't cost me more than the VAG model. However for most parts i'd only use VAG, but £160+ for a rad was a bit excessive!
  11. adamukcorrado
    southern radiators are the people to see, i've had two from them and the service etc is excellent, for a hot climate rad for G60 with air con was about £80 and the VR6 rad was about £90. if they don't have what you need they can make it! their number is 01243 778242 (chitchester based i think)
  12. adamukcorrado
    thanks kev, you truely are the corrado master! :-)
  13. adamukcorrado
    the top of the vr6 later type slam panels where slightly more shaped to give more room in the engine bay for the larger vr6 engine block, i currently have a 16v slam panel and a vr6 engine and it's a nightmare, have tried two different rad combinations to give more room but still end up with the dip stick damaging radiator. i'm changing to vr6 slam panel at weekend and purchasing a third and (hopefully final) radiator.
  14. adamukcorrado
    yeah i'm running the 16v Master cylinder at the mo with my vr6 calipers, just thought i'd better check it would be big enough for the S3 calipers as it's due for replacement anyway. i'm running the standard 16v corrado calipers on the back, so do i need to buy front and rear hoses seperately? thanks for your help, my cars a nightmare for strange parts!
  15. adamukcorrado
    i have just bought a full set of 2003 audi S3 VAG brakes (312mm) to fit as part of a complete overhaul of my brakes, My car is a 1990 16v body with a vr6 engine and running gear transplanted in, i don't have ABS, therefore which master cylinder should i use??? Also which goodridge braided hose kit to link the 1990 16v body to the S3 calipers??? ..........it would of been far too easy to just run a simple VR6 :roll:
  16. adamukcorrado
    mine is showing similar symptoms at the mo, you turn the key and there can be a delay of several seconds before any signs of life, always fires first turn, but you don't know how long after you turn the key!! gonna change switch this weekend to hopefully cure the problem before i get left stranded!!! thanks for the helpful links!!
  17. adamukcorrado
    yep thats what i was looking for, thanks.
  18. adamukcorrado
    Looking for a breakers for vw parts in the manchester region, (inc leeds, bradford, sheffield etc etc ) any ideas or recommendations?
  19. adamukcorrado
    that would be why i couldn't see it then!!! i'll have to leave it for my mechanic then as don't have the kit at my new flat and he's having it to change all the cv joints anyway. thanks for your help tho,
  20. adamukcorrado
    was it easy enough to get to? where abouts on engine is it? once you've undone the three bolts hows it conected up to the shaft??
  21. adamukcorrado
    yeah every thing i used was vag (including tappets at £20 each!!!), it runs beautifully and sounds great with the 6-2-1 manifold but as soon as the engine gets hot it goes tappetty, so i'm guessing the oil pump is getting tired, the money i've spent now is starting to get beyond a joke!! big brakes and a respray this summer tho...... :D
  22. adamukcorrado
    i'm using synta silver, thought it may of been a big job as the oil pump is chain driven isn't it?
  23. adamukcorrado
    my vr sounds horribly tappity when engine is hot despite fitting a fully recon' head and all new tappets less than a month ago. i presume it's because the pump hasn't got the guts to get the thin oil up to top of engine when hot, therefore do i need to open whole engine up again to change the pump? or is there an easier way to quieten the tappets- oil aditives? heavier oil?
  24. adamukcorrado
    i drive a vr6 transplanted into a 1990 16v, and the only advice i could give is don't bother!!! the amount of work and expense involved is unreal, far better off buying a vr6 to begin with. however an advantage of mine is i've got a vr6 in an early body shell which means i can get around emmissons regulations that a vr6 normally has for it's mot, meaning i can take out the catalitic converter and squeeze a few extra horses out of the engine.
  25. adamukcorrado
    Sounds like the kind of job i could suggle with for a day, where my mechanic could do easily, The cars going in for a big brake conversion in a few weeks, so will have the whole lot done at the same time.. Dutch, how did engine conversion go??
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