jezzaG60

I think you'll find that turning the distributor clockwise will retard the timing. The rotor arm inside the dizzy is turning clockwise so you want to move the contacts on the cap further away at any given moment making the spark later...........

I'm 99% sure you can no-longer buy the BBM kit. Lysolm no longer make the charger used in the kit. John at bbm now also recommends that the charger is re-built at about 60k....... so not the ever lasting solution originally promised. The good news is BBM are working on a new kit with a different charger, although they aren't giving away any details at the moment.

I was lucky enough to aquire a brand new Mk4 gti gearbox at a sensible price. I'm pretty sure the ratios are the same as a Mk3 16v box. 1st and 2nd are like the vr 1st and 2nd so 60 in second is easily achievable. 3rd follows on nicely from there. 4th is quite close to 3rd but i find it makes it a great fast B road/Aroad gear. 5th drops the revs nicely for cruising. Cant remember what rpm it puts me at at 80mph but its pretty sensible, around 3k on 16's i think. On top of that is the peloquin, great bit of kit which is pretty well tried and tested. Puts the power down really well to be honest. Does give you a bit of torque steer mind! The setup may be for sale in the not so different future if i come across the syncro/haldex parts i'm after.

I guess some would argue that the auxillary shaft in the early block creates a weak point hence the block splitting right through the middle of it...... don't really think it was designed with 1000hp in mind!

They have the water pump bolted to the front of the block as per the one in the pic. All "big block" vw engines (1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0) from the seventies right up until the mid nineties were like this. The water pump is driven off the cam belt on the newer engines as opposed to being driven by an auxillary belt.

Well..... not exactly, all but a few of the very early 20v's (AEB's ??) have an internal water pump and a different oil pump set up with no intermediate shaft. Still, if your trying to get 500bhp per liter you have to expect a few issues! lol

I remember this pic from a while back. I thought the engine was actually a 16v turbo (hence the crank trigger set-up on it). The engine is actually on an engine dyno if you look closely at the pic.

Most of the chassis/drive train mods are in my sig. Pretty much everything is new, brakes, suspension bushes etc. I'm running ball joint extenders on the front to drop the wishbone so it sits more level with the lowered ride height. I've also got rose joint track rod ends which are positioned on the underside of the hub so the track rods and wishbones are more level. The only problem i have found in this set up is that the castor is lower than is should be which makes it feel a bit more twitchy than it should. I have got some camber/castor top mounts but they wont work with my strut brace so at some point i will fabricate something of my own. Gearbox is a brand new VW mk4 gti box with a tdi 5th from a mk3 and a peloquin. Gives a great set of ratios. Torque is around 260lbft. I don't think you can get a lot more than that from the G.

Yeah.... its a bit nervy reving it that high, I still haven't got round to swapping in an 8k tacho from a 16v so its a bit of guess work on how far off the clock i want to rev it! Its too hard to try and watch the rpm on the laptop as it climbs so fast! What I really need to do is install a shift light so i know when to stop lol. I've got a soft cut limiter at 7400 and the hard cut is at 7600. I have nudged the soft cut a couple of times but it just give you a light misfire, hopefully not enough to damage the charger. I don't think it would appreciate hitting a hard cut limiter at those speeds! Car is pretty good on the road, I've got to play with the suspension geometry a bit to see if i can make it feel a bit less skitish.... but i get the feeling that is jus how its going to feel trying to put that much power down. Its fine if you hang on REALLY tight to the wheel!

Well, after some more playing around it finally makes over 300bhp. I've done a few mods but nothing really made a great deal of diffence to the performance. I fitted water injection, i hoped that when running this with some methanol i'd be able to run some more ignition advance and make some more power. This just wasn't the case unfortuantely. I can advance the timing up a bit more with no det but there is no extra power to be had from it. I guess its given me a bit more of a safety margin (and it will come in useful for some later mods i have planned) but at these boost and compression levels it doesn't give any performance advantage. May have been a different story on a really hot day but as it is the large intercooler i have keeps chage temps around 18 degrees even on the dyno. I have made a complete new exhaust system from the 4 branch back. I hoped this would pick up a few horses as i couldn't quite believe 2" system would flow enough for 300hp (well more than 300 if you think about it as the chager is probably pulling 20-30 on full chat) Anyway, i know i need the bigger system for whats coming later but as things stand i didn't gain anything. Did a couple of other small bits, ported the charger outlet and the throttle body. Actually got round to fitting a cold air feed and cutting away the airbox. So, at the end of all that, most of the extra power came from playing around with induction kits! (see my reply on induction kits thread) It seems the charger loves to have a large volume of free air to draw from, if i was playing about further i would be tempted to mod the charger inlet casing as bbm used to and bore the whole inlet side out to a larger volume. Anyways, thats about that really, 300bhp is achievable from a G60. I'd love to have more time and money to throw at it and try more charger mods, a different 4 branch, a CNC head and maybe a higher compression ratio..... but that said i think i'd be lucking to see more than 10-20bhp more. It would also be nice to be brave/stupid/rich enough to try reving it a bit higher, but i think i'm in the region of pushing my luck as it is. Maybe i should go the dutch way and rev a 62mmm pulley to 8k! LOL :whistling: I'll try and get a scan of the dyno run up later

A couple of mine on Winter rims.... for sale if your interested! :lol: Its on Cup 1's now, i'll see if i can track down a pic.

I have got all the runs on one print i think, but its a bit of a jumbled mess so they don't really tell the story as well as the numbers. The only thing they do show which, although obvious from the different power figures if you think about it is that the differences in torque at the top end become much greater than at the peak torque numbers. At 7k there is almost 20 lbsft seperating the lowest from the highest power plot. All the runs carried out with a box just had a standard paper filter in. All runs were with the bonnet up. We never tend to run cars with the bonnet down on the rollers. Even though we have 2 powerful fans (better than a lot of rolling roads seem to use) you can never simulate the ammount of airflow you would see through the engine bay on a 4th gear pull on the open road. I do have a 4" cold air feed running from a scoop in my spoiler up to the cc hole.

Well..... as i had an empty workshop and some time to play with my corrado and the dyno i thought i'd see if i could do some testing to put the old which induction kit debate to be. If i'm honest and you were using your car as a daily driver i would go for a paper element filter every time..... that said, if your fastidious about your maintainence and you want maximum performance..... well i'll let the figures do the talking. All tests were performed in sucession, i did 2 or 3 runs per filter set up and the numbers posted are the best result for each filter. That said my car on our dyno is always super consistent and is usually within 1-2bhp on each setup. (Less than 1% variation which aint bad really!!!) Standard Airbox, still with snorkle inlet and a new paper filter: 277.1bhp/7026rpm 244.0lbft/4502rpm Standard airbox, snorkle removed and box cut away above cc: 287.4bhp/6954rpm 249.7lbft/4496rpm SWG Twin inlet lid, cut away box bottom: 293.0bhp/7015rpm 251.1lbft/4477rpm Jabbasport Single large cone filter and heat shield: 297.4bhp/7211rpm 250.0lbft/4704rpm SWG Twin cone kit with heat shild: 303.2bhp/7153rpm 255.5lbft/4957rpm I did actually log the boost level during the run and there is a 1.5psi differece between first and last kit, just goes to show the charger like to have a good supply of air to draw from. So, there you have it. No doubting cone filters can provide the performance edge but you would really need to keep on top of things keeping it really clean and well oiled. I have never liked the fact they seem to let a bit more crap through into the charger, but like i said, if well maintained you should be ok! Another thing to bear in mind it that this is tested on a pretty extreme case. I'm running a 65mm toothed belt on the charger so the demand for air will be that much higher than on a smaller pulley. That said, a 10% gain is a 10% gain! On a side note, ive cracked 300bhp!!!! :clap:

Once again my car has been a greatful guinea pig for another SWG product.... What do you rekkon?.... this one is in polished stainless steel Attaches to the original 4 mounts and covers up the holes so you don't see them. I actually prefer the one in Carbon Fibre but my pic of it on my car didn't come out very well. Steve said a group buy would be possible if there is any interest i'll post up a thread in the group buy feelers. I've got some pics from him so you can see what the different options look like.

its worth looking over on dubforce as the guy who had blue joes engine has taken it on a bit further and had it re-mapped again by wayne...... making some really good numbers now!

Errrrr, no, the car i was thinking of was not one of JD's 16v G60 creations..... and i think i mite know the difference between an 8v and a 16v...... and for the record i believe JD's corrado 16vG60 made more like 340bhp! Go and have a look on vwvortex for the WHP G60 thread.... the guys username is A1 G60 or something.... and i was a little mistaken about the power output.... it was 256whp...

I think 300bhp is just possible..... but you have to talk to the dutch guys as they really know how to build them.... or how to waste G-laders depending on how you see it! I know of one J D Engineering car making 255 at the wheels.... which must be as near as dam it 300...... but iirc he is running a 63mm pulley to 8500rpm!!!! :nono: I think a charger life of a couple of thousand miles is not uncommon!

Not sure if mine counts as its not a PG.... but still has a G-lader.... 2l 16v ABF + G60 + Lots of other bits n bobs.... Been run hundreds of times on the dyno while i was mapping it 280-290bhp at the fly with 250lbft.

Yeah, as Walesy said, the 'box is written in my sig. Its a Factory re-con direct from VW out of a Mk4 Gti Turbo. I've added a Peloquin Diff and 5th gear from a Mk3 Tdi 'box. This gives ratios similar to VR 1st and 2nd, 3rd close to the G60, a slightly shorter 4th (means i have great pull from 60-110 ish) and a long 5th which iirc does about 26mph/1000rpm....... and it may all be up for sale if i come across some suitable hadex gear! Glad you enjoyed the ride Walesy...... its been a long time coming LOL

On MOT the car will be fully up to temp before they test the emissions. Most places will check the guage is up to temp or maybe that the fan has cut in and out. As my car is a pre '92 then if doesn't have to pass the Cat based emissions. This means emissions levels are pretty relaxed, think your allowed 3.5% co at idle. My afr at idle is about 14:1, it doesn't idle so smoothly if i try to lean it out further. At that level the co was only about 1% anyway so i didn't have to make any adjustments for the MOT. i have been surprised by how well the car puts the power down. I'm now back on my "summer" whels which are only 16's but with brand new 205 40 16 Yokohama Parada's. You have to be really mean to it to get it to break taction. A lot of this is down to the Peloquin i think but it does make Torque steer a bit of an issue. I think i'm just used to it (and i think i now have arms of steel!) but after letting my G/F drive it the other day and doing a few trips from one side of the road to the other under hard acceleration i'd say maybe it is a bit of a handful!!

Yes its all up and running and has an MOT and Tax..... but its a long way from finished. At the moment i've just been putting a few miles on it and ironing out any little snags as they come up. I've still got more mapping work to do to improve economy and lean it out a little on cold start. Has so far been very smooth running and reliable. Power wise it seems to have hit a bit of a brick wall. Tried running it with the exhaust system disconnected after the down pipe and managed 290bhp.... so there is a little more there if i buy/make a larger system. I'll stick up a few more pics when i'm at work and can get them off my camera. Plan at the moment is to run it till after E38 and then i have a new plan for it........... Not going to give much away about the engine but could be looking at 4wd and Haldex....... If anyone knows of a syncro rear pan and suspension set up i could be very interested!

I didn't really persue this as there didn't seem to be much interest.... but i will make a few more enquiries as i'm dying to get a new screen for mine and one of these would be a cool mod i think......

iirc, the cost based on 10 screens being ordered was just under £200 delivered.

Just wondered if anyone had thought about having a heated screen for their corrado? (Like the type you find on Fords where there is a very fine heater mesh in the glass) Curious as there was a group buy running on Clubgti for Mk1 and Mk2 ones. If we could get together enough interest it may be possible to have some made!