RW1

Its a combination of both. If when exisiting stock runs out there is still a demand by enquiry, then they will make a new batch up, usually sourced from the original supplier. So itf something appears, its best to grab one while it lasts. .

191 825 250A is only valid for 1988 - July 1992 (end of "M" chassis) Aug 1992 onwards (start of "N" chassis) is 535 825 250A because of the introduction on the wider ribbed belts. This is the later (storm in photo). [ATTACH=CONFIG]71787[/ATTACH] .

Bailiffs is my preferred option although I did work a bank account over with one of them. EBAY support is a joke. .

Stop selling on Ebay yonks ago cos of non-payers. Had 4 in court and it cost them quadruple for messing. .

"I have a CCGB gazebo and chairs here that I could do with passing onto someone!" They are with Helen in the Wirral. We've had them for years. Helen was just asking back 3 weeks ago! Helen was supposed to be contacting Paul Kip from two weeks ago, but I guess Christmas and European day trips has her busy. .

HNLMS Bruinvis, a Royal Netherlands Navy Walrus-class submarine before arriving at/after leaving Canary Wharfe West India dock today. .

Got to remember where this surplus arose. After the BR affair coupled with the high membership levels during that time period it happened, the Club recovered a large sum of money at the end in 2004 which had been inappropriately taken between 1998 and 2003. So, I seem to remember the decision was to use it year on year supporting the Club activities wisely until it was reduced to a sensible operating reserves level from year to year. In order to help that happen, one decision was to reduce the Club's membership fee from £15 to £10 until a operating Club Fund level was acheived. It looks like that policy has been happening well and the bottom level is now being reached. A credit to Judith and the Committee. So its now time to start contemplating putting the Club Fee back to its normal operating level and managing the Club fund value. IMO thats the debate at the next AGM as to a sensible fund reserves level v operating costs per year. You need funds in hand to operate and cover some routine carry over's from year to year as membership fees may not be available at a year cross over point. If not you are left hanging without say a Sprinter issue or Club insurance cover for the membership at shows and so on. The cross over point can last as long as 3 to 5 months while enough fees come in. So the funds can NEVER be zero'd otherwise it stops Club activity or someone has to fork out of personal pocket. And some items are not small beer lump sums. The Committee cannot be expected to stump up money if the Club is short, thats unfair. And remember these people freely give their time to run the Club. There's no monetary rewards in doing it on your behalf. The choice is whether to raise the fee to some oddball value like £13 above or to raise it to £15 for a while and then drop again to £10 to do an adjustment again. The real objective is to have a realistic operating fund "cushion". And not to let it run away to become a piggy bank again nor let it dip too far to stop the Club operating. Used to do this the same with Club Scirocco to control the "saved" fund level to maintain a sensible operating cash level without squirralling away people's money. It can be quite tricky as you don't know where the next years membership level will end up. It could be a lean year with a low number and may be fat year with more than expected. Its not a steady state thing for sure, so you need a reserve to dip into. At £15 (a 1996 fee price) with inflation, today it would be £30!. If you don't like it, thats your choice. You don't have to renew your membership :) Bottom line is attend the AGM or write in with your ideas so that people can consider and ratify at the AGM if a major decision is required. Thats the way it gets steered. And of course actively participate/contribute or set up a meet etc., or write something for the Sprinter as part of Club involvement. .

It certainly does.... stardate 15th October 1998! .

You all know its coming..... carry on with Mk3 S's..... even Eric will have to admit at some point and cave in to a Portuguese variant. :D Goodness, you might have warned me, that rusty disc and bolts, disgraceful by my standards today. Mind you, what a blast from the previous century Jim lol! Looks like a good copy to read :salute: .

Don't forget me :wave: :wave: :wave: Got three, had them in use for 14 years now. OK for those wanting to know......... One or two things to note.... 1) The charger wires are routed down from the battery to the bumper tow hook cover area in a small bore clear tubing to prevent chaffing of the wires. 2) The Airflow requires the wire length to be balanced to work properly. So I made up a length of wires the same size as the add-on extension that are supplied for the battery clips flylead and the direct battery connection flylead. 3) The socket clipped to the tow hook with a tie-wrap is filled with vaseline to prevent corrosion. 4) The back of the connecting charger plug is filled with silcon (as is the blanking connector when not use) to prevent water ingress. 5) The charger connection plug holds in place with a rocking clip finger. If the wire becomes strained for some reason or you accidentally drive away, the connection will delibrately break. The white nylon connector and socket with pins/sockets is available at Maplin. OK photos........................ Closed up [ATTACH=CONFIG]71074[/ATTACH] With Aerosol Cap (slotted) fitted. [ATTACH=CONFIG]71073[/ATTACH] Aerosol Cap removed, Blank Plug Cover in place. [ATTACH=CONFIG]71077[/ATTACH] Socket ready to couple up the charger plug [ATTACH=CONFIG]71076[/ATTACH] Charger plugged in and rocking clip hold the connector and socket together. [ATTACH=CONFIG]71075[/ATTACH] Full view of the installation when charging [ATTACH=CONFIG]71072[/ATTACH] .

I have my connection in the left front tow hook area. Drop the cover and just plug in. But.... you will have to make sure it is splash proofed as water gets in there from the road or when washing. Not much. Use a flat ended aerosol cap with a slot for the tow hook so it slide well home. Pierced the top with a hot wire and knotted a nylon string through the cap and tied it to the tow hook so it didn't fall off the Corrado every time I coupled up. Also my connection has a cap over the two electrical pins to further stop water ingress. .

As the battery sits behind the left headlight, in cold weather there is an icy blast at travelling speeds comes in through the gaps of the left headlight. Chilling the battery at this time of year will considerably reduced the ability to convert electrical currrent (amps) to stored charge from the alternator. So a padded cover type would be of benefit in it being charged and also keeping it at a higher level of charge generally to prevent sulphating and freezing. You might even consider putting polystyrene cut sheet (0.5cm thick) in poly bags on the front face and side panels of the battery outside walls inside the battery padded cover to enhance the insulation. Even then, if journey's are short, consider charging on a trickle type charger for 12 hours once a week. My daily (not a C.) does 12 trips a week at 6 miles each, 18 mins duration, 1 engine start cold for each trip. In winter the battery voltage slowly drops despite insulation and being at the back of the engine bay. At the begining of the week, it will start off at 12.6 - 12.4 volts (100% - 75% charged) but after 2 trips daily in the week, the 12th trip + 1 hour, the voltage is down to 12.1 volts (~30% charged). The voltage check is 1 hour after the engine stopping to allow the battery to settle at its nominal voltage. With the cold, the low maintenance battery doesn't get enough time to store the charge but in summer it does. Longer trips of an hour plus and the battery does get fully charged. Its also important to keep a battery fully charged in winter as when low on charge, they will freeze up earlier as the temperature drops, due to the water content being higher. This can result in damaging the battery cell material. .

Firm Hold Fla! None of the floppy stuff. Add couple other things as its storing outside. Take the steering wheel off and put in the house somewhere. Bit hard to move it if some one gets in. Plus, handbrake off, choc the wheels secuely and in 1st gear or reverse (so the engine turns the normal way depending if its on a slope.). .

They will use the VAS system (VAG's own diagnostics) to link through to the VAG database for your car. VCDS does not have that capability. .

Its the VR6 used in the T4. 2.8ltr 1996 - 2000 year range. Modified cams with 12 valves and new ECU M3.8.1. Engine code is AES. Has high mid range torque over a standard VR6 with lessen power. 140 PS (103 kW; 138 bhp) @ 4,500 240 N·m (177 lbf·ft) @ 3,000 The changes including the intake manifold are to adapt the engine into the T4 body. .

Dealer I'm afraid. You won't find the code with VCDS. You may need to use VCDS to get the Radio recognised by the car but code is self contained to the unit. .

All you need to do it is use white spirit (not turps), a paint brush, an old credit card and a cover for the engine bay - decoration sheet from B&Q. 1. Use the credit card to shave off the foam. 2. Brush on white spirit, cos of the slope of the bonnet, apply at the top of the pad area and brush down. 3. Wait about 15 mins, apply some more white spirit. 4. Allow to soak for about an hour. 5. When it's ready to come off, the adhesive will droop off the under bonnet. Use the credit card to take it off. Any stubborn areas, apply more white spirit. 6. Wipe the areas clean with a cloth damped in white spirit. 7. Wash the areas with car shampoo and water, wipe dry. It'll take about 4 hours including waiting time. .

These are a good fit http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?50906-Was-there-ever-made-mud-guards-for-the-Corrado&p=657563&highlight=passat#post657563 They still sometimes turn up on Ebay. .

Check all the rubber brake hoses. In fact change them out cos sure as eggs are eggs the new brake fluid will take them out within a few months. Exercise the brake calipers by pushing the front pistons back and forth and rears turned in and out. That will free them off fully. Get this problem all the time with light useage. NB. On caliper pistons going inward, open the bleed valve to relieve back pressure otherwise you may damage the ABS block valves. Got VCDS? Use "Output Tests 03" to exercise the injectors, ISV, Charcoal Filter Valve. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?16110-VR6-Misfire/page8&highlight=output+test+injector Add some fuel cleaner like Forte http://www.forteuk.co.uk/product.php?id=42/Advanced_Formula_Gas_Treatment with the new fuel. .

You can't is the simple answer. Its an VW illustration only, if two are needed it would be listed in the VW parts list which is not replicated on that web page. Half useless unless you have a supporting copy of ETKA. [ATTACH=CONFIG]70538[/ATTACH] As said you need two. .

Blue sender spot readings: 15'C - 3,000 ohms approx. 50'C - 1,000 ohms approx. 70'C - 425 ohms approx. 90'C - 250 ohms approx. So its goosed. ----------------------------- Yellow sensder: Across pins 2 & 3 I'd expect some readings similar to the Blue sender above. Across pins 1 & 4 is the "Run-on" fan switch. This closes at 101'C - 107'C to make circuit. So the switch is more difficult to test as a pan of boiling won't trigger it. The only way would be to use a Pressure Cooker pan so that you can raise the boiling water up above 100'C. Alternatively, try and use the engine hot. .

Still the same. Win7 64bit I.E.8 .

All in a package http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-VR6-CORRADO-WATER-FLANGE-THERMO-HOUSING-C513-/220505500573?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335726eb9d Sorted! .

Reapir of the pack should be the same as the Corrado. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/fan_speed_thermal_fuse_repair.html .

If its blowing that way Paul, then look at the wires around the fan unit for a shorting, particluarly the 12 volt feed from the resistor pack which I think will be a red wire with black stripe. Or for a foul in the chamber above the fan unit that is loading the fan mechanically. Or as said, take the pollen filter out. If iirc the filter is access under the dash in the passenger footwell where youare with the fan unit. In the opposite forward corner there is a rectangular panel about 25cm x 5 cm. On the surface there is a vertical lip. Use that to slide it about 1.5cm. The panel should fall off, with debris and the filter start to drop. Tbh, I seen bad filters and the fan still runs. Just take the filter out tonight, system will still run, leave the 25cm x 5cm panel off for ten minutes and see if it blows again. The thermistor cannot see any dash electrical current so it has to be downstream of the resistor pack, electrically or mechanically. Panel switch is a red herring. .