RW1

As long as the securing clip is in place in the sensor socket wall slots, with the all metal body behind clip on the thermostat housing side, its OK. Yes, it does sit a little more proud then the other two. .

Tell VW then. Thats their text summarised! .

The Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump is designed to prevent boiling in the head after shut down by continually circulating coolant. This Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump helps to keep the coolant flowing in hot climates or under high loads on the engine or heating system. The Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump circulates engine coolant anytime the ignition is switched on The Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump runs when the engine is switched off and the coolant temperature goes over 107° C, switched on by the "Yellow Sensor" in the thermostat housing. It runs in conjunction with the Radiator Cooling After-run System switched on by the "Yellow Sensor" in the thermostat housing. Circulating the coolant during this time helps cool the engine block and prevent the possibility of air pockets forming in the cylinder head. .

Apologies, it was late last night and I found it through Google but forgot to note the link to paste into the post. Here it is..... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?57061-Fitting-new-radiator-any-tips/page3&highlight=radiator+shop .

Finally found pics on another topic. Couple of Q's.... 1) Does it take the top coupling elbow like the original for the top rad hose?. 2) Is the radiator fan thermoswitch fitted in the same position as the original ie. down by the bottom corner edge of the battery? .

Did you take any photos before it was fitted? .

Ah, already gone down that route. Yes Shipley in Yorkshire. Yes, tell me about VW prices, given a clutch has gone £120 + VAT to £220 + VAT in 2 years, the rad would have been near £300 now. Got a secondhand Hella and not impressed with its build quality or build design. The twin fan cowl does not fit fully fit home but thats how it arrived and as a some parts of the VR6 Andy is/was breaking was botched, I can't say if its the original fitting problem or the bodger that did the replacement job. Maybe VW Heritage.de will pick it up soon like they've done with the top hose elbow coupling & seal recently. If they do the rad will be reasonable made. .

Got a source supplier for Denso Marston new one Steve? .

The clear flexible tube comes off the tank vent pipe. The tank vent pipe comes into the engine bay below and to the off-side of the brake servo along with the two fuel pipes going to the engine offside. The vent pipe as it appears (rising) out of the body channel has a connection to the clear flexible tube. The tube then makes it way round the off-side of the engine bay, under the solenoid air valve ( your "air pump") and down the unside wing to the carbon cannister. .

Latest prices........ If you want to use the original coolant concentrate G11 as supplied to VW, its in the list. Made by BASF and sold as Glysantin G48. Comma market it in 1ltr, 5ltr & 20 ltr quanties and is marked G48. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49708[/ATTACH] .

Yes. Usually a black hose to the cannister. Where's the clear tank venting pipe that feeds tank expansion? It shouldn't be plugged otherwise pressure will build up in the tank on hot days. .

Wiper arm & clips arrived today safe & sound. Thanks Neil and thank you for organising :thumbleft: .

You don't have to register with .de Just do your order on the fly. You will get a quote with shipping on your email account you provide. Respond to it as in the letter. I just ring up quoting the reference on the email and settle credit card over the phone. Arrives about 4 days later via VW logistics carrier DHL. (PS. They speak English very well, friendly guys) .

There are still some around that are even lower than 27k miles. aka 15k miles. It may have come from someones estate being disposed of. .

No it wouldn't slacken. Its down to how you set them. Rocking test will confirm that. BTW, it also affects the straight line steering if slack, Corrado (as other cars) will tend to wander at speed as it moves side to side on the rear bearing tapers if one or both are slack. The outer washer tends to fairly tight to push with the screw driver when you've tightened it. Still slides but it does not flop about. The balance is the wheel still freely rotates with very little hand effort. . Your adjustment needs to be just

H., What are your back bearings like? Put it in gear, handbrake off. Then put your foot on the top of each rear tyre and rock it into/out of the wheel arch. It you feel or hear clunking as the wheel & disc rock about, the bearings are too slack. I had one rear wheel slack like this just a couple of months ago. Only a slight movement. Adjusted the bearing to take out the movement so it didn't clunk, while leaving it still free to rotate. Pedal firmed up quite a bit. Could be you are chasing this, hence why the bleeding isn't going any further. If it is, whats happening is the taper bearing slackness is allowing the disc to move sideways and push the two brake pads away from the disc surface. So the pedal has to travel further to take up the gap before it becomes firm. One side is enough to soften the pedal travel. C.

Haven't Mk2 GTi's got the older type rear calipers like on early Corrado's where the spindle for the handbrake mechanism seizes???? .

1290mm for non-aircon belt. The slightly larger is the air-con version - 1360mm. Sure its the belt and not the tensioner bearing??? Just wipe a little WD40 with a rag on the belt surface you can see at the alternator pulley. Run the engine. If it goes quiet, its the belt. Still noisey but reduced or gone altogether, its the belt. If it still screaches, use a paper towel card tube and locate near the tensioner pulley to see if it's that. If not, then water pump bearing. Pump pulley is lower down where the engine belt is near the inner wing/body metal. And finally down at the front bottom point of the belt route, the steering pump. Steering heavier than usual when it screaches? Could be the steering pump binding. .

What make was it? .

They look like smaller 240v mains fuses and sit in metal clip holders on the printed circuit board :lol:. Judith will know ! .

Pop the case open and see if there are any small cartridge type fuses inside that may have blown. .

You mean my unopened Synta Gold 5ltrs is a collector's item! Wow! .

Have they stop selling 10w40 oil?? When I used the dealers in the first 5 years of the Corrado's life, I used take in my own oil and ask them to use that. The Service Desk/Workshop ever had any problem with that. After that I've always serviced my C. according to the VW Service Manual Schedule. .

I'm surprised at £250 for what is basically an oil change, screen wash top-up and inspection of the vehicle. I've just had one done at a dealers for £102 inclusive of oil, filter, screenwash and general inspection. This did not include airfilter or pollen filter. That comes in at about £160 if thats done as part of the service. Oil capicity differences would amount to 5.5 litres of oil instead of 4 litres which adds about £12. I think you need to ask the dealer what they intend to do for £250. The Corrado VR6 is not exceptional. .

Spent many a summer there in the Sixties, family home. Doesn't mention the big hydro power station at Llanberis (Dinorwic Power Station). When we all jump up to put a spike in the electricity grid with our kettle, they switch it on instantly to boost the national Grid. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dinorwig_Power_Station) .