RW1

Remember the principle of the horn circuit is not switching on the 12 volts. Thats always present at the horn's 12 volt connection when the ignition is switched on. The horn plate in the steering wheel pad completes the earth circuit of the horn relay, not 12 volt connection. The relay works the same with the horns, ie. it completes the earth side connection. Being on all the time means there is short to earth of the relay switch earth wire side (Brown with White stripe) as its sounding all the time. Runs from the horn to the fuse/relay plate. Somewhere it was touching a part of the car body earth. .

Genuine VR6 clocks! What suggest you do with the broken part is just substitute a large petrol filter as bought and connect the two end pipes to it. The internal filter won't matter as it will remain clean and therefore free flowing. Why its fitted? Most vacuum MPG connection to the brake servo pipe don't have it. Most likely use to dampen the surges in vacuum on the VR6. Maybe found something wrong with the readings the system was giving on the VR6. If it serves that purpose you will soon find out with MPG readings in the stored memory (kept ones) reading incorrectly. The substitute tubing you have used needs to be a rigid type that won't collapse. There is upto 1 Bar (15 psi) vacuum in the pipe. The black unit on the back of the instrument panel is quite expensive at £150ish, and is common to other engines like 8 valvers. So rather than develop a new part to solve, they made do with an additional part to overcome the short comings on the VR6. Knowing the engine ECU would take over the MPG in later cars, to develop of a new vacuum sensor for a short run may not have been cost economical. Who knows :shrug: .

@Luke Wouldn't it be wise to have VCDS hooked up and find out exactly why the ABS light is on? Clutching at straws a bit really otherwise. When you do this, does it pump out brake fluid or did just rise and seep out of the bleed nipples? .

Thicker oil won't shut a tappet up. Try Castrol Magnatec, only available in 10W40 now for the Corrado engines. If you are going to flush it thro' try adding Comma Easi Flush if you can get it. Drive around with it still in the old oil for 50 miles. Wynns is no good. .

Interesting, not what I expected. Yes, the back would be usefull and the part number on the white sticker, usually above the speedo on the white back casing outer top face. .

Post picture up of your clocks in the dash please. .

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- Fuse 19 (30 Amp Green) on the fuse / relay plate OK? - Pull the connection off the radiator thermoswitch. With a meter, check 12 volts on the Red wire (not the two striped ones) to an earth point on the car. OK? - If 12 volts on the Red wire, take the connector at the radiator thermoswitch, bridge the Red wire connection to the Red with white stripe wire connection. Does the fan run? Now bridge the Red wire to the Red with Black stripe wire. Does the fan run? - Disconnect the fan connector. Put a meter on the Red with White stripe wire in the loose Fan connector and set meter to measure 12 volts to earth. Bridge the Red to Red with white stripe wires at the thermoswitch connection. Got 12 volts? - Next, reconnect the Fan connector. Remove the wire bridge connection on the Thermoswitch connector. Take a wire from the battery positive and connect to the Red with white stripe connector connection. Fan run OK? Do the same again only connect the 12 volt battery wire to the Red with Black stripe. Fan run OK? - Take the fan connector off again. Check the Brown wire makes circuit with the battery earth. - If still no fan, take the thermoswitch and rig up your meter to bridge the same two connections on the thermoswitch as above for Red to Red/White stripe and hold the switch in the top part of a pan of near boiling water. You should hear a ping and the meter show there is a circuit (This may take a couple of minutes to happen). OK? --------- Along the way, one of these checks will fail. That will isolate where the fault is in the fan's electrical circuit. .

The valve was a retro-fit as when the coolant got too hot, the matrix failed in some VW's. Try fitting the substitute pipe inlet side with a restricted diameter to slow flow down, so the matrix effective temperature remains cooler if you go the simple way. THe valve would normally do this and vary according to temperature. Well placed dent in the side wall of the pipe. .

Rough price here but bear in mind VAT has changed. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?48150-Sound-Deadening-Foam&highlight=535+898+123A .

All ready in cut shaped sections. Suggest when you come to do it... to do a dry run with the sticky back protection still in place so you know which piece goes where and what way up. The adhesive is very very tacky and once you commit, its vitually no return. .

Nooooooooo.... What CazzaVR says and be partient doing it, at least two brew breaks ;) It falls off like in a horror movie if you give it time. Shave the foam off first to let you get at the glue with the white spirit. Big plastic decorator's sheet over the engine bay and front wings, ... its needed. .

No! Its refering to the grille part that runs along the whole width of the bumber in which the tow hook covers are rivited to. .

You buy the poly sheet membrane as a standard size and cut to shape. The part was never available as a pre-cut sheet to just offer up and fit. What I have done in the past is put the sheet on with glue, get it tight, then with a sharp knife and a piece of card, go round the end and trim off the excess. The door card will hide the job. I think its still available but if not, take a large clear plastic polythene bag and cut that to shape. Use no tape to join pieces, better is one whole sheet. The important bit is to take the bottom edge and make sure it flashes off the water into the door bottom. Just sticking it on the face metal, the water will run off on the door inside with the floor becoming flooded again. Stick it on with a spray glue at the points where it contacts the door frame except the bottom area length. But note, the speaker hole needs to be taken care of as below before fully sticking down. VW use Black Butyl sealing cord on the doors for the membrane. Part number AKL 450 005 05. This on most VW doors sits in a small snaking depression. This stops the water flashing off the membrane down the bottom of the doors bottom horizontal frame area and into the inside of the car. As the won't be Butyl cord intact (can't remember if fitted to Corrado), you instead put the bottom edge of the membrane into the door cavity. Ensure the speaker hole through the membrane have little "rain porches" pointing into the door cavity and they point downwards so as water flashes of into the door, not upwards as water will drain down into the speaker unit. Use a small plastic freezer bag for this. .

If you have had the door cards off and poly membrames open, the important rule is to ensure any water inside the door flashes off the membrane back into the door bottom. Otherwise it will run inside and cause problems like you have because it is exiting the door membrame behind the door frame seal on the inside rather than dripping onto the sill out of the door drains. There won't always be obvious signs as it will be a small rate over a long time. .

That what usually happens with older VW's. Don't have a clue, ask a dealer on the phone with that part number. They will soon tell you availability & price. My guess if its available is £35 + VAT and you will have to buy the whole of the pack. .

As per my link in my 1st post...... So OK! .

Yup it VW's sound deadening use all over the Corrado and other VW's where they need to dampen the panel vibration Part number is 323 863 950. Comes in pack of 6, 250mm x 550mm x 2mm. (also useful to know is the Butyl sealing cord on the doors for the polythene splash sheild. Part number AKL 450 005 05) Don't know the price. .

Did the run on Friday afternoon (23rd). First time I've plotted a road trip and noted the dash temp at the VCDS event points. Some weird things going on. 1) The dash temp and ECU temp followed each other more or less the same until A34 bypass at speed when they departed similar values quite markedly by upto 10'C and never really tracked together at the same value again. Airflow affecting the blue temp sensor???? They are effectively in the same position in the thermostat housing! Dash gauge doesn't stick or jump, same since nearly new, smooth slow changes. The ECU blue sensor in all other records previously agreed with the Dash coolant reading. 2) No stage 2 Fans at any time. 3) Stage I Fan ON only - in stationary traffic entering Bramhall - while stood idling at Holmes Chapel. 4) Both dash and ECU temp senors moved when stationay at the end of the run at Holmes Chapel when I let the fan kick in with the engine idling. Just a very slow drift down on the Dash coolant temp gauge from 106'C to 104'C. The stage I fan on did not budge the dash temp when ON. The gauge just slowly drifted down 106 to 104. 5) Interestingly today, it reads 91'C where records elsewhere show Blue ECU temps of 97.4'C with fans. Maybe the sensor is aging??? 7) Fan after-run/Aux. Pump came on at home with 91'C ECU and 105'C Dash coolant temp. - Chart showing route and Dash coolant temps event points v Blue ECU temp sensor v Corrado's speed. - PDF file of the whole run out Hazel Grove to Holmes Chapel and reversed route back. (Lambda probe's in good shape!) . Log Corrado 230911 A34 Holmes Chapel.zip

Got it mate i`ll take it off tomorrow and pm you And it threw no faults in VCDS when tested yesterday. :) .

A sign it should be replaced soon. Thats the tell tale. . ---------- Post added at 02:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ---------- Far easier to take out the fuse shelf and put a hand up and push it out from behind. .

Yes they are the same. Same part number. .

The bearing oil pressure switch circuit is "timed" by a little module in the dash panel. By that I mean it doesn't react straight away. It takes around 5 seconds iirc before putting on the buzzer and LED. So you can drive the Golf with momentary bursts above 2,000 rpm without triggering the warning if the rpm bursts are under 5 seconds-ish. To test.... Switch, disconnet the wire and meter from pressure switch to ground circuit test, open circuit when engine is stopped, zero oil pressure; closed circuit when the engine is running above 1.8bar from the pump. So start the engine and the switch should be closed easily at say 1,500 rpm with a good switch and oil pump. Check the dash panel and wire (usually yellow). Disconnect the switch's wire and start the engine at idle. No buzzer. Now ground the wire to the engine block earth surface that you know is a good earth point. Rev the engine, continually holding it above 2,000 rpm while continually holding the pressure switch wire to earth. No buzzer = Dash/wire OK, Buzzer means either the wire is at fault or the dash. Stop the engine. Now take out the dash panel and locate the oil pressure sender wire. Usually the wire colour continues, ie. yellow (the circuit is two wire links with the fuse relay plate bridging the middle section). Line that out for circuit. OK, then dash panel is at fault. If not, start looking at the two wire connections into the back of the fuse/relay plate. .

Should be done in full including VCDS to settle the components. But I doubt the start problem would be resolved. Look at the fuel side for that if it not burning oil and requiring regular top ups. .

Your battery's flat then! :lol: .