RW1

Yup, MoT has to be pre-booked though prior to taking the car onto the road and the journey is specifically made for that purpose. You can't just go and turn up at a MoT station or detour to somewhere else on the way there. Insurance cover is required for the journey. . ETA: Yes you are right, my bad.

Its very faint due to light being cast around the inside under the switch cap. No more than the German made ones do. When I tested, I didn't think it was even worth commenting on. Can be solved by putting on a shallow sleeve on the red LED like heatshrink. .

x2 What's C.& D. quoted you on delivery time? .

Can I reserve: Description: 535827550A Quantity Available: Corrado Boot Strut RRP Including VAT: £41.95 Offer Price: £12.00 Status: Not sure on quantity as post is unclear above on stock. 1 please if possible if kev doesn't take up. Part Number: 535955707 Description: Corrado Rear Wiper Arm Quantity Available: 3 RRP Including VAT: £24.79 Offer Price: £15.00 Status: 1 please. Part Number: 535941179B Description: Headlight trim retaining clips Quantity Available: 21 RRP Including VAT: £1.02 each Offer Price: £0.50p each Status: 14 please.

I doubt it - obsolete stock items, gone from dealers long time ago. More so, cos they are Corrado specific parts. Could always try http://www.vag.net.ua/index.php?page=search_spare_&id=75&detail_code=535881317 http://www.vag.net.ua/index.php?page=search_spare_&id=75&detail_code=535881318 40 Euros and 7 to 10days delivery :lol: http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-trim-panel_226687.html .

BH Kevin, did you mention the call out fees? @benzo. 1) Has it been like this since you bought it in July? If not what have you done in the boot/tailgate area? 2a) Is the headlight switch symbol illuminated as well when headlight switch is OFF, including when ignition is off? (2b - assumes the internal bulb is OK and illuminates when the ignition is switched on?) 3) Is the front and rear foglight switch symbols illuminated (not the rings) as well with no ignition or sidelights on? 4) Pull Fuse 3 (10Amp Red) What happens to the plate lights? 5) Pull Fuse 16 (15Amp Blue) What happens to the plate lights? After I've seen the above answers, we may have to start pulling things apart. .

Yes, the hunt for the hidden "12" ...... One thing you can do with VCDS is check the ECU makes it work by using the Output checks option in the "Engine 01" screen. You will have to cycle through the injectors/ISV first. If its working, a faint clicking noise can be heard like the louder ISV that precedes testing. Clicks about once a second like the ISV will. Here's a link to VCDS Output Tests If it doesn't work, I'm not at home at the moment but I will look up the info for further checks tonight. .

Item 12 is a valve that the ECU controls. ECU thinks its faulty. Or wiring is broken. How the tube pipes are connected is irrelevant as the ECU is only looking at the circuit electrically. .

Was thinking of Rock Wool but it seems to be a commercial application, not DIY. This may give you some ideas but as above you've got to keep the air off the cold surface where it is condensating. http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/garage-roof-insulation-t29873.html .

Yes, and it would smell sweet glycol. .

Ah, a concrete prefab garage with a tin corrogated roof I bet. It may not stop that. Better to insulate the metal roof. It will always condensate. Better to paint it with loft insulation material so as the cold metal surface is hidden from the mositure in the air. That way the moisture in the air remains airborne until the de-humidifier is able to extract it. Roof is acting on the same principle as the dehumidier cold plate. .

Scuttle floor panel was sound? Has it has a new windscreen at any stage? Check the little digit in the bottom corner of the screen. ".....n" where n is the last digit of the year it was made. eg a 1994 build will be ....3 or ....4. If different to the year build, then there maybe a leak i the sealant or rust damage has occurred in the left bottom corner area. Time to take the parcel shelf out and look up at the bottom edge of the windscreen and the underside of the scuttle area. If there is anything amiss, it will be obvious by rust trail. .

The pulse outputs from the PWM IC /MOSFET transistor must be 12volts otherwise the lamps in the dash wouldn't illuminate either. LEDs are getting 12 volts so the dropping/current resistor shouldn't impair.

The stiffness is no different to the German one when new. I compared it to two brand new German ones at the time of the testing. I did this to reduce it..... If you want to make easier, take the rocking cap off and apply some more vaseline/silicone grease to the dimples which lock the switch in the 3 positions. The dimpled bit is roughly central inside the upper part of the switch. I did find that made it "run" smoother. @S/C That the PWM IC they have re-designed into the switch illumination circuit. As written into the assessment, specifically design for use with LEDs. So why Matt's dash switches with LEDs don't work..... :shrug: .

Is the carbon cannister fitted? Is the light blue solenoid valve fitted below the MAF on the inner wing? .

Agree. Interior door pull area, trough is for the rod to the door lock. .

Have look at the brown wire on the left side loom for a break at or near the lamp unit connector. The brown wire runs into the loom and into a common earth further back. Disconnect the connection at the headlight and see if it lines out to the battery earth. (Put my headlight loom under the airbox in a clear plastic tube, saw that one coming many years ago). .

Yes, been using one for 12 years (same one). Runs on a plug-in socket timer. On M - F when I'm not in the garage. Off at Weekends when I'm in & out doing things. Starts being used when the cars come off the road in October and run it until end of April. Set in the corner to blow exhaust air along the gap at side of car / wall. So air is circulated. On some days, its so dry it takes your breath away. Mine doesn't work down past 5'C as it uses a cold plate to take out the mositure. If the garage is cold, the air won't condensate. Brakes remain rust free. Cars drive like the day they were put away. Also painted the garage walls with outside masonary paint and the floor with concrete sealer + garage floor paint. That cuts down a lot of moisture retention. Sit the tyres on kitchen coarse fibre carpet tiles as garage floor paint sticks to hot tyres. Store the dehumidifier water for windscreen wash and coolant changes as it has no "additives" like tap water. Cars also "dock" into charger points and have on board quick connections linked to the battery. .

No1 & No6 together. .

Under load suggests the engine moving to open up a leak, that why I wrote look at the curved duct ahead of the throttle body. Don't think injectors. Look at the plugs and their colour. Generally all the same? Also if no airleak in the intake post the MAF to the engine, it maybe the Lambda is on the way out. They don't last for ever. I'd check the Lambda cable loom from the rear engine mount to the cat. Particulalry at the cat end where the wires enter the probe for a possible wire almost broken. Again under loaf the cat will move, and so the probe relative to its wiring loom. .

If Lambda is greater than 1.0, then there is a surplus of air and the engine is running lean. If Lambda is less than 1.0, then there is a surplus of fuel and the engine is running rich. Look for an intake air leak after the MAF. Extra air getting in. Or sticking closed injector. Not sticking open. Those 2nd, 3rd & 4th stored values suggest it is more than just at start up issue, so air leak. Good place to start with is the curving duct after the MAF, ahead of the throttle body, hairline split. .

Got mine today, postie left at the wrong house with 3 other packages. Well packed! Thanks. Notice the orientation plastic key is already removed! Neatly !!! What a service. Cheers Matt. Ian S x 2, also got his yeaterday. Passes his thanks on. .

Why? Is it leaking coolant visibly? Is it making noises? Cooling system on the gauge generally OK? If no, no, yes to these, not worth it to disturb what is working and may go on for a while yet before needing attention. You ain't saving like you might say with doing the timing chain area when the gearbox is out for a clutch change. .

Glad to hear :thumbleft: Well done you two! Pin 23 is the 12 volts switched, that comes in from the ECU relay 109. So it must be there for the engine to run. .

The 70'C thermostats in the link carry the standard VW part number stamped on them, the only difference is that they are marked 70'C instead of 80'C. So was it sourced VW dealer stock which would be 80'C or another route such as Dubpower. If its a genuine thermostat, and lower setting non-genuine rad fan switch, the fans would be on/off all the time while travelling, not just stationary. That would keep it cool. Lee wasn't certain in the chat last week, that was the case. And when driving the temp drops lower into the 70'Cs iirc.. That lowering of temp while driving lead to the thought the dash water temp gauge is under reading. The other thought would be the thermostat is stuck, even though its newish. But taking the thermostat housing apart has to be a last resort. I'm happy though that the after-run fan would work if the temp would get high enough. The jumper wire across pins 1 & 4 of the yellow sensor's connector last Friday showed the circuit is working if the yellow temp sensor thermo-switch switches on. Good positive relay click in the fan-controller and on comes the rad fan motor at stage1. And the temp dash guage is reading about right, ie it is running low temp. When I have fixed my timing chain case leak today with keyhole surgery to stem the life blood leak, I'll hook up VCDS and do the drive to H.C. on the A34/A535 and log the ECU temp reading v gauge v when fans come on (but I know I won't get stage 2, never hits it... stage 1 always has the capacity to cool except up at 25'C+ air temps.). .